Follow-up to sticky hydro. pedals

[DVerbarg]

I assume you are talking about the "B" plate? (Sorry for the non-tech term /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif) When I replaced mine I tried to do it with just removing the platform support and was not able to do so. Ended up having to remove the joystick and remove enough of the ancillary items that the platform could move up a few inches.

If I ever had to do it again I will be sure to ask you for details.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have been able to do it without removing the whole platform. )</font>

Insert a whole bucket-full of admiration for your ability to work almost completely blind. You must have some pretty special tools and double-jointed elbows. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I truly don't know how you did it.

As Dave mentioned, did the tractors not have loaders? In order to get the outer support assembly off, I had to loosen the loader mounting post on the right side. My dealer even told me that those bolts had metric heads, but SAE sockets would fit because the heads were so big there was that much play in almost all sockets. Sure enough, my large SAE socket fit just fine. I don't recall the size, but I was glad I didn't have to buy one single metric socket to do the job.

You won't believe the groan I let out when I first read the instructions in the Repair Manual which said, "Remove the operators platform." Those simple words make it sound so simple. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif In the end, I was glad I did because I was able to easily see what I was doing as a complete newbie. I've said many times that I would take it to the dealer in a heartbeat if I had it to do over again. The beautifully layed-out platform is a real pain when you need to work on something below it. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

On another subject... I've been reading lately about the forward and reverse relief valves in the hydrostatic transmission. I was mistaken in that I thought they were adjustable. My Repair Manual says if they don't work properly, the only thing you can do is replace them. Of course, here is the kicker: You can get to the test ports below the platform through the "hatch" below the floormat, but you have to lift the platform to replace defective valves. Have you found a way to do this without removing the platform? I'm sure lots of Class III owners might be interested to know. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[djradz]

Jim, I never noticed it before, but in looking at your pictures earlier in this thread, I see there's a pretty big black "smudge" on the side of your "B" plate. I noticed my little damper/shock cylinder comes very close to this plate, but on mine didn't seem that the two were touching. Looks like on yours, maybe they are. Probably not enough friction to slow the mechanism as many of us are now reporting, but for some, this could be a contributing factor. Was your's truly rubbing here:?

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Was your's truly rubbing here:? )</font>
No Duane, that's where the cruise control magnet (hockey puck) rubs against the plate. It especially makes a mark if you force the pedals to move while the electro-magnet is engaged. New Holland says you can do speed control by changing the pedal positions while cruise is engaged, but I just normally find it easier to disengage and reset where I want it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[techinNY]

Yes they both had loaders, nope, no double joints, yes, a short stubby 13mm wrench, and over the years I have gotten pretty good at working by feel. The first one I did had a Curtis cab on it. So in order to remove the platform I would have had to remove the cab, so I tried to do it the way I do. Don't get me wrong, it is not the easiest to do, and I'm fortunate to be small framed so I can get into some places others can't.

As for the relief valves, I have not had to mess with them, so no I have not. The only real problem I have ever had with the class III hydros is one that the two speed would not work, right off the truck from NH! We found the charge pressure was low, so there was not enough pressure to move the piston to change the angle of the swash plate. The problem was a peice of metal shaving in the charge pressure relief valve not letting it seat and build pressure. That is the only problem internally I have ever experienced.