Foot Treadle

[Marks481]

Doesn't the fill cap have a vent in it? Did you block that vent or replace the cap, to ensure that tall the intake/exhaust went through the dessicant?

 

[SpringHollow]

Yes, but mine was plugged already by crud. When i redo my cover, i will relocate the fill port and put on an unvented cap.

Ken

 

[coolconnection]

I have been reading some older forums on pumps and so forth and have read some people changed their hydraulic oil to UTF and other types. I am wondering if this might be a good idea for me since I already drained the oil and it will need a filter change as well. So how many of you have done this to your Power Tracs? (change the oil that is to something other than motor oil)

Thanks

 

[SpringHollow]

From my recollection of UTF from when i had traditional tractors, UTF seems pretty thin for this purpose.

Ken

 

[ponytug]

Dear Ken,
You are right. As covered here extensively in the past, UTF tends to be 10W20. You can get heavier weight versions that are 10W30, and some synthetic versions.

I looked recently for 10W40 UTF and couldn't find it.

If anyone knows a source, I'm all ears.

All the best,

Peter

From my recollection of UTF from when i had traditional tractors, UTF seems pretty thin for this purpose.

Ken

 

[SpringHollow]

DieselPower would be someone to talk to but I believe he only had up to 10W30 in UTF as well as straight viscosity hydraulic oils.

I would love to get away from a detergent oil and go with a true hydraulic fluid that does not emulsify water.

ken

 

[J_J]

I have been reading some older forums on pumps and so forth and have read some people changed their hydraulic oil to UTF and other types. I am wondering if this might be a good idea for me since I already drained the oil and it will need a filter change as well. So how many of you have done this to your Power Tracs? (change the oil that is to something other than motor oil)

Thanks

If you don't have a good reason for changing, don't. If someone can persuade you about the benefits of a different/better fluid, then it might be worth considering.

Does anyone know what the viscosity level that we should be using in our Power-Trac?

Is everybody using 10W-40 for hyd oil, or a synthetic equivalent?

Read this.

Hydraulic Fluid Viscosity

 

[Bob999]

I have concluded that a wide range multi viscosity oil is best for the PT. Ideally the low temperature rating will be a 0W or 5W to allow free oil flow during initial start up in cool or cold conditions--this is desirable to minimize the possibility of cavitation. The high temp rating should be 40 or higher to maintain power during hot weather operation. I have never found a UTF that has the appropriate viscosity ratings and have continued to use motor oil--presently I am using a 5W40 synthetic oil. I think some have gone to 0W50 synthetic oils.

 

[BobRip]

I have concluded that a wide range multi viscosity oil is best for the PT. Ideally the low temperature rating will be a 0W or 5W to allow free oil flow during initial start up in cool or cold conditions--this is desirable to minimize the possibility of cavitation. The high temp rating should be 40 or higher to maintain power during hot weather operation. I have never found a UTF that has the appropriate viscosity ratings and have continued to use motor oil--presently I am using a 5W40 synthetic oil. I think some have gone to 0W50 synthetic oils.

Just to make it clear, I store my PT in a heated garage that rarely goes below 60. So I think the 15W50 is probably OK. Other garages may not provide this protection. A little more detail on the garage. It has two walls in common with the house, and has ICF outer walls (R50 equivalent) with an R11 door. The attic insulation is R55. There is no actual heat source, but losses from the house do heat it pretty well.

 

[coolconnection]

Thanks J_J I read it all. I think I will just keep the standard oil in the system.
BobRip I to have an insulated garage and I don't think it ever gets under 47-50 degrees in the winter. So my PT is not to hard to start in the winter. I called PT today to check on the pump and they told me my "swash coupler broke loose and smashed into the pistons and broke them to". I think that is how they said it, I probably got that wrong. I was also told it was a basket case. It will be finished tomorrow and shipped back to me. Terry told be everything was isolated inside the pump so nothing should be in the lines but I should change the filter to be safe. It was only the 2nd one they have seen broke this way, he said they're a tough little pump (Hmmm mine wasn't). But it will be fixed woohoo. Now I have to put it all back together. Thanks everyone for the help and insight.