Foot Treadle

BobRip · Feb 19, 2010

toy said:
Bob Rip did you understand them to mean to run a 3 micron all the time from then on or just to run it for a short period of time to recirculate the oil and fine filter out the contaminants and then go back to the 10 micron? I thought it was just for a short period of time, and I have talked with others that have varying opinions on that. When I lost my wheel unit I just changed the filter and worked it for a few hours and then changed the filter again and then went back to the scheduled maintenance program. I didn't use a 3 micron filter I just used the regular filter, I wouldn't advise anyone else to do that, that is just what I did.

It is just for a short time with the 3 micron and then go back to the 10. You need to talk to Terry at PT to get more details. I think a lot of people have done what you did, but I expect PT knows best. It does seem strange to me to only use the 3 micron for a short time, but I am very far from an expert in this.

toy · Feb 20, 2010

The failure that I had was different than coolconnections, but the 3 micron filter would filter out any thing that would hurt his pumps and other components in his system. I would want my filter on the suction side to catch anything that might be in the system before it went through my pumps as they are expensive [variable volume]. As far as cavitation of the pumps that is not a good sound but you know to check your oil level, check for oil leaks, and change the filter I would rather hear cavitation than klunk klunk then no movement.

J_J · Feb 20, 2010

Just hope that the density of the particles is more that the weight of the hyd fluid, so it will settle to the bottom of the tank. The fluid used by the PTO pump and the steering is not directly filtered. The tram input filter will eventually filter all the fluid, but by that time, some of the crud will pass through the pumps mentioned. There might be something to adding a return filter to the tank to keep crud out. I guess the large hyd tanks that the PT's have, help settle out most crud before it is picked up by the other pumps.

coolconnection · Feb 20, 2010

I did drain all the oil out of the PT before disconnecting the hydraulic lines and pump. How difficult is it if I take the rectangle lid off the oil reservoir and have it seal again. What is involved to keep it from leaking once reattached? Do I need some kind of sealing agent? This could be a good time to clean it out. I bought a fuel shut off valve for it and new fuel lines so when I put everything back together it will be all done. Thanks guys, I am reading this thread daily just to keep up.

SpringHollow · Feb 20, 2010

My cover has always leaked a little on steep slopes. The main worry is that means water etc can leak in. I tried the RTV gasket material and i can not remember if it was cork or rubber that i also tried - it was very hard to find anything big enough locally so i used what was available. The rubber ones on the magnets have never leaked. One threaded bolt hole for the cover was stripped when i got it (might have to resort to a helicoil or oversized bolt).

I think maybe the vent on the fill cap was plugged and that is why the RTV gasket failed. I installed a desiccant breather cap when i tried the second material. I want to make a new cover and will try again then.

Ken

coolconnection · Feb 20, 2010

Does anyone know if the tram pump for a PT 425 is a Bondioli NT10. I was doing a search and also contacted Bondioli and found that there is a dealer not to far from me. If I have to pay for a new pump I want a good one and under warranty. I read PT warranty says only 30 days on replacement parts. I am just being prepared for the worst but hoping for the best. PT took off the manufacturer name tag that was riveted to the pump. Now why would they do that, that is just not right. I was looking up the nt10 tram pump and it has several choices. Oh well just being overly prepared.

toy · Feb 21, 2010

permatex will seal it I believe unless maybe if it is painted under the cover, then I don't know. Now would be a good time to add anything you might want to the lid while you got it off. I remember one of the posters put a screw on cap instead of the cap that we presently have, and some have mentioned putting an oil level indicator on theirs, or a temp gauge.

SpringHollow · Feb 21, 2010

I added a thing or two

USA Discount Generators - Standby and Portable Gillette Generators

Later added a desiccant breather to one of the magnet plates as well.

Ken

Marks481 · Feb 21, 2010

wow. Nice job. I wouldn't have thought about having two seperate magnet columns. How close to the bottom of the tank do the magnets go?

What kind of disicant breather did you end up with? Is the idea that when the oil heats up, the water had to leave the tank somehow? And then when it cools and contracts, air has to go back into the tank ... probably being moisture with it in the summer?

SpringHollow · Feb 21, 2010

I would have to go and measure the depth of the tank to see how deep the tank is but they must come reasonably close since they are over 10" long. Some people had some interesting ways to try to accomplish the same thing in this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/102333-filter-cart-tank-magnets-etc.html

Yes, as you use the tractor, it heats up the oil which expands thus venting air from the tank. As it cools, the oil contracts sucking in air which also contains water. The desiccant breather takes the moisture out of the air as in enters the tank. When venting, the hot air removes moisture from the desiccant, venting the moisture to the outside.

These are the desiccant breathers I am using:
TRAP Breather

Has an LED that lights up if the desiccant is no longer any good.

Ken