Ford 1700 clutch adjustment

   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#41  
The bearing holder won't move, even with a prybar, except forward. Going forward, though, it's against the fingers of the pressure plate.

The fingers are not even.One of the fingers has good clearance, one finger has very minimal clearance, and one is in contact with the bearing.

I've turned the clutch assembly all the way around several times. The bolts visible all appeared tight and consistent. I didn't try to tighten them. It's possible there is one a little bit loose, but it wasn't visibly slack. I can try that later tomorrow, but I don't think that's the issue. It's worth looking at, of course, to avoid splitting the thing.

If they aren't loose, is pulling the steering column a prerequisite for splitting the tractor anyway? That is, will it have to come off?

$200 is pretty reasonable for the clutch; I hope I don't need it, but it sure is looking that way. :( Between that and the starter, though, this is getting to be a much more expensive project than I hoped. That's the gamble of buying junky, non-running machines though! :laughing:
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment #42  
Pulling the steering colum is not required to split the tractor and would not help your problem.

Russell
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#43  
My thought/hope with pulling the column was to gain access to the top of the bearing carrier, and see if there was something easily correctable that was throwing things out of alignment. The pressure plate fingers are not consistent. One is touching, one is almost touching, and the other is well clear of the throwout bearing.

If that isn't useful, then there's no reason to waste the time.
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment #44  
That ought to learn you a lesson not to do that anymore:laughing:
Joking aside it is reasonable if you put in the sweat equity. you do not need to take steering column out at all for the tractor split. The only reason I brought it up was that it was a way to inspect clutch. obviously you come to a stop where the holding is traveling aft no matter how much you pry. I just wanted to verify if it is sliding over to the front and back to the stop within the gap and not frozen. You confirmed my suspicion that the pressure plate is is not square to the flywheel or fingers are deformed some. Starter can be had for $400 from Felabay as well.

JC,


STARTER FORD TRACTOR 1000 1500 1600 1700 S12-62 | eBay


The bearing holder won't move, even with a prybar, except forward. Going forward, though, it's against the fingers of the pressure plate.

The fingers are not even.One of the fingers has good clearance, one finger has very minimal clearance, and one is in contact with the bearing.

I've turned the clutch assembly all the way around several times. The bolts visible all appeared tight and consistent. I didn't try to tighten them. It's possible there is one a little bit loose, but it wasn't visibly slack. I can try that later tomorrow, but I don't think that's the issue. It's worth looking at, of course, to avoid splitting the thing.

If they aren't loose, is pulling the steering column a prerequisite for splitting the tractor anyway? That is, will it have to come off?

$200 is pretty reasonable for the clutch; I hope I don't need it, but it sure is looking that way. :( Between that and the starter, though, this is getting to be a much more expensive project than I hoped. That's the gamble of buying junky, non-running machines though! :laughing:
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment #45  
It may aid is visability but not to reach in and fix anything. Notice on my post with the photos, where the spring pulls the throw-out bearing back toward the transmission. If yours is pulled back all the way then it is at a hard stop and located where it is supposed to be. If it still touches the fingers and the bolts are tight, then I don't see any other option but to split.

Russell
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment #46  
It may aid is visability but not to reach in and fix anything. Notice on my post with the photos, where the spring pulls the throw-out bearing back toward the transmission. If yours is pulled back all the way then it is at a hard stop and located where it is supposed to be. If it still touches the fingers and the bolts are tight, then I don't see any other option but to split.

Russell

About time you chimed in buddy :), some of the pics are the ones I hijacked from your work. I agree it sounds more like the split.

JC,
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I've started the process of splitting this thing. The flywheel bolts were all tight. This is going to be a big job, I'm afraid. Just pulling off the loader has taken me almost half an hour. I can't work on it for very long at a time, unfortunately.

I can't see this taking under 8 hours especially alone and on dirt, rather than smooth concrete. I'll take pictures as I go, but it will be awhile in coming. I doubt I'll have it back together, even if it's just an internal misadjustment, before the weekend is out. :(

Thanks again for the help and advice, I'm sure I'll be asking more questions soon!
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Well, 2 1/2 hours into it, it's all apart. Here is what the pressure plate looked like:

Pressureplate2.jpg








You can see that the fingers are unevenly worn: One looks ok, one is worn partway through, and the other is worn far beyond what must be acceptable.


The pressure plate was the culprit, though I'm not sure why still. You can see the comparative unevenness:


FInger3.jpg



Finger1.jpg




The photos don't show it well, but it's almost 1/8" different.


The pressure plate face seems ok, looks and feels smooth with no ridge, or heat cracking or discoloration.

Pressureplateface2.jpg



The flywheel surface is smooth, but looks uglier. There isn't a significant ridge on the wear area. A fingernail doesn't catch, and it's more perceptible as the transition from smooth to rough than anything.

Flywheel.jpg




So, hours into it, that's how far I've made it. Now, of course, I don't know what to do... :laughing: It's going to be a mess to put back together though!
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment #49  
Great Job so far:thumbsup::thumbsup: it is always more fun to destruct before construct. I wondered if the pressure plate bolts were not torqued equally and this think was not perfectly parallel to the flywheel. The previous owner either rode the clutch all the time or adjustment was way off. he fingers look like chewed up pretty good. How did the bearing looked like. I just use emery and clean flywheel mating surface. Obviously you're going to change all the components including pilot bearing. Have y0u ordered the parts yet? The online source I linked reports pretty good and it includes all. I did not see they has alignment tool. If you order it from there asked for it and I'm sure they will throe it in with the order.

JC,


Can you take the pivot on the fingers off to expose the spring. I wonderd if all spring removed measure the same. I'd sure like to see a mcro picture of it. We need to do a CSI tractor here:D. I love to do postmortem on dead equipment any chance I get.
 
   / Ford 1700 clutch adjustment
  • Thread Starter
#50  
I've pulled the bearing and carrier off. The bearing felt dry and a little gritty, but not bad. It should be replaced, but it wasn't on the verge of failing, either. I'll measure and post photographs of the springs, probably tomorrow afternoon, when I get some time. I can't figure out why the pressure plate was so cockeyed, though.

My starter is supposed to have shipped today. There's a local place that may be able to provide the clutch parts. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow. I'm hoping to take advantage of the Thanksgiving holiday and get it up and operational then. Thanks again for the help.
 

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