ford 1700 clutch problem

   / ford 1700 clutch problem #31  
I bought the IT FO-44 manual- 30.00 plus 5 shipping.



Any suggestions of things I could/should do while I have it split in half??

Thanks-

Nope, it seems you have all your ducks in a row. I had a nightmare scenario once. About 25 years ago I changed a clutch disk for a buddy in college just to earn a bit of cash money. I ended up buying a reman pressure plate and disk. Apparently the pressure plate was re-ground. Making a long story short, took every thing apart, put the reman stuff in, put things back, started the car and all looking and sounding good while gear in neutral. I clutched, first gear and no go:( clutched, second gear and no go again. Took foot off the clutch and put the transmission in all gear, no grinding and no go as well:mad::mad: Ended up dissecting the stupid thing again and took the part to store, right away they realized the pressure plate was way off the specs and they gave me OEM right away. if I knew any better, I would have tested the clutch plate by trying to rotate the disk with the aligning tool. My disk was totally free spinning and I did not realize.

Compare pressure plate thickness for sure and make sure it is not free spinning after you install and torqued the pressure plate to flywheel.

Make sure to check the seals for oil leakage from transmission and also engine side. Guys reporting flywheel bolts to engine are torqued in excess of 250 lb-ft:eek:

JC,
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #32  
Ok, should have the clutch kit tomorrow! So I hope to put it all back together this weekend! I'll post some more pictures when I get it done.

Besides looking for evidence of oil present in the clutch housing, how should I check the seals for oil leakage? There is a little bit of oil in the bottom of the housing where the clutch is, but other than that it looks good to go....??
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #33  
I've never had a 1700 apart.. but on other models.. when yuo do the clutch, you also do the input shaft seal for the tranny ( as you usually use it as an align tool as well ).. that and throw out and pilot .. etc.

soundguy
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #34  
Ok, should have the clutch kit tomorrow! So I hope to put it all back together this weekend! I'll post some more pictures when I get it done.

Besides looking for evidence of oil present in the clutch housing, how should I check the seals for oil leakage? There is a little bit of oil in the bottom of the housing where the clutch is, but other than that it looks good to go....??

I have not done seal replacement on my 1700 as I never needed to change the clutch yet.

If you go to NH website, under 1700 and transmission clutch diagram you'll find a seal #46 that does the input shaft like Soundguy suggested.

Pics below is the courtesy of Russel. Thanks bud:D

Transmission Input shaft and the retainer.

tractor008.jpg


after you remove it , then you'll see the seal right in front of that bearing you see in the back of the housing.

tractor007.jpg


This pic is not of 1700 but it is TC-35 but with the same design.

Once you remove the Flywheel that's is what you see a big seal that goes around the rear end of crankshaft. Flywheel to crankshaft bolts are torqued pretty tight, not very easy to remove, need breaker bar and may be a cheater pipe for some positive enforcement.:D. On NH website that is seal #19 under crankshaft and flywheel diagram.

100150750.jpg


Now before I start tearing in to things, I'd examine the oil in the bottom of clutch housing, I start to sniff around and compare and contrast with transmission oil and engine oil to see if I can ascertain where it belongs. Look at tell tale sign of oil seepage behind the flywheel that is slung around or the input shaft.

Good luck,

JC,
 
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   / ford 1700 clutch problem #35  
Nice pics JC. My throw bearing is making some noise, its only a matter of time before I pull mine apart. One thing I am real glad to see is the rear main seal is the big lip type that is removable from behind the flywheel. When its that easy to get to, no sense in not replacing it if it has never been replaced before. Good Luck Bickley! TB
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #36  
When its that easy to get to, no sense in not replacing it if it has never been replaced before. Good Luck Bickley! TB

Hey Tex,

I don't know if I go all the way and call it "easy". You know that "no good deed will ever go unpunished":( a well seated seal that is not leaking should last a long time. If my seal looked okay and no oil seepage I'd probably think long and hard before getting in to it. It is not a cost issue, checked with Messicks and per their website the seal is around $20.

JC,
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #37  
True enough JC, I guess i should have said "if it was leaking or looked worn". Got to hand it to the japanese motor makers, they know how to put one together thats lasts. I was always impressed with the way they sealed motors. TB
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #38  
Thanks for all the comments. Got the clutch kit on Saturday, but since it's the end of muzzle-loader season for deer....I have been putting the tractor off :)- Anyway, I am going out to the barn and start putting the 1700 back together. I'll send some pic's when I get it all done (and/or if I need more advice)! Cross your fingers and she'll be running by Christmas.
 
   / ford 1700 clutch problem #39  
Good luck, It should be a piece of cake, crumb cake that is:D at least got to go in with positive attitude till things start going south:eek:

JC,

Ps. we're done here with rifle season for now. Between the early season and the normal season I got 1 buck and 3 does, and I got them on ice:D. Got one more doe tag that I'm aiming to fill in the late season. Jan 1st and I'll be in my hunting shack to wrap the season up.
 
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   / ford 1700 clutch problem #40  
Good luck with that late season!

Hey- I got a question. While I am doing the clutch, I have been doing all the other "routine" maintainance that I have neglected. I read your post on changing the fuel injector pump oil, and saw the pictures you posted. On the 1700 there is no "drain hole" or "fill hole", so how do you drain the old out and how do you know how much oil to put back in?? The only access to the injecto pump is through the "breather/fill" cap on top. Then there are two other valves to bleed the fuel lines. If you are not sure what I am talking about, I'll post pictures....Thanks-
 

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