ford 1700 clutch problem

[Texas Blues]

We have seen that before, where some 1700's have the drain and fill plugs and some do not. Some folks were removing the end plate, catching the oil thats already in it. Then they had a good idea how much oil was in there. They were also tapping a hole in the cover (which I wouldnt reccomend) and putting in a drain plug, and using the breather hole as the filler. Im guessing a few ounces it what it will hold. Check this thread out, some good pics in there. TB

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ting/144468-ford-1500-1700-injector-pump.html

 

[JC-jetro]

Good luck with that late season!

Hey- I got a question. While I am doing the clutch, I have been doing all the other "routine" maintainance that I have neglected. I read your post on changing the fuel injector pump oil, and saw the pictures you posted. On the 1700 there is no "drain hole" or "fill hole", so how do you drain the old out and how do you know how much oil to put back in?? The only access to the injecto pump is through the "breather/fill" cap on top. Then there are two other valves to bleed the fuel lines. If you are not sure what I am talking about, I'll post pictures....Thanks-

TB's link above is pretty good. There was a few more links that you can search as well. I add a pic below that is pretty self explanatory. If your injector does not look like that then , post a pic and report.

JC,

Link to my 2009 hunt pics.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/photos/160113-my-2009-deer-hunt.html

 

[Noknees45]

TB's link above is pretty good. There was a few more links that you can search as well. I add a pic below that is pretty self explanatory. If your injector does not look like that then , post a pic and report.

JC,

Link to my 2009 hunt pics.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/photos/160113-my-2009-deer-hunt.html

Ok, here is a picture of my fuel injector pump. It doesn't have the "fill level" hole, or the "drain hole". I think I am going to have to do what take off the end cap and drain it.....Let me know your thoughts.

By the way- is there anyway to copy and paste pictures right from my computer? I don't have a "url" to insert the pictures from....??

 

[JC-jetro]

Ok, here is a picture of my fuel injector pump. It doesn't have the "fill level" hole, or the "drain hole". I think I am going to have to do what take off the end cap and drain it.....Let me know your thoughts.

By the way- is there anyway to copy and paste pictures right from my computer? I don't have a "url" to insert the pictures from....??

Yep, I have seen it like that. Someone dropped the ball on that one. The cover in the back can be removed and put back to be refilled from top. 1710 is 3 cylinder vs 2 cylinder 1700. On FO-44 they list 5 oz of oil in the injector for 1710. I know mine was barely 4 oz when dumped it out but I filled till it overflowed from level hole.

You can not cut and paste easy in to the forum. You either upload like you did or use a picture hosting site like I use. with picture hosting site you upload in to your personal account and just provide link in the body of your message.

How is clutch install is going?

JC,

Once the back cover removed, I can imagine,tapping and putting drain and level plug. watch the spring so you will not lose it. I think you an take the cover off without damage to gasket. You might invest in a few gaskets and just take the cover off. Another Idea, once the cover is off chance of contamination is minimized inside the injector. Might want to drill and tap where the holes on the body of injector and put couple of screws there.. I like that better.

 

[Noknees45]

Ok- so the clutch is back in and the tractor is off the jackstands and jacks!! I still need to do the finishing touches and will keep you posted. Basically, I just need to get the wires all hooked back up and fill it with oil, then put the loader back on it!

Putting the two halves of tractor back together was definitely tougher than getting them apart! Three suggestions I have are

1. Definitely use wedges to block the motor

2. Use a rachet strap to help pull the halves together.

3. Label teh bell housing bolts as you take them out. There are three different sized bolts and I had to take out and put in bolts like three times trying to figure out which ones went where...(stupid mistake, but I got em right eventually)

I'll post pictures either tonight or tomorrow of the rachet strap technique and the clutch etc...

Hope to have her running this evening.

 

[Noknees45]

SHE'S UP AND RUNNING! Gave her a test run today and the tractor is running SWEET! Only thing left to do is put the hood back on and attach the loader! Her is a run down of what I did-

1. Removed Hood and battery
   
2. Took off all the electrical and hydraulic lines between the front and back of tractor
   
3. Removed the Tachometer connection
   
4. Removed starter
   
5. Drained engine and hydraulic oil
   
6. Closed Fuel Shut-Off valve
   
7. Blocked the engine and put floor jack under back end (I'd do the reverse if done again)
   
8. Removed bell housing bolts and split tractor
   
9. Took off clutch, pilot bearing and release bearing..............Put new ones back in. Pilot bearing was a bear and needed some encouragement !
   
10. Cleaned and scraped the old grease off
    
11. Drained and put new oil in fuel injector pump
    
12. New fuel and oil filters
    
13. New Fluids
    
    (adjusted clutch)
    
14. Bled fuel system, charged battery and started her up

I have attached some pictures... Thanks for all your help. I am gonna plow some snow tommorow!

 

[Noknees45]

More Pictures and here is the name of the guy I got the clutch from. I found it on e-bay and this guy was GREAT! He threw in the spline alignment tool for free and the part was as advertised!

Jeff's Tractors
Jeff d McKibban

index

These pictures are getting the pilot bearing out. I used a lug bolt to push grease and tissue in behind the bearing. It came out after about 45 minutes of persuasion!

The last is the geese we harvested on the opening of late season here in upstate NY! Had goose wraps for New Years Eve party.....they were awesome.

 

[JC-jetro]

Great job Jeff,

I'm glad you got her back on her feet and working. Good pics to add to my 1700 album. Did you end up changing any seals? I mean either transmission or the engine. I expected to see bolts that connect the flywheel to crank shaft, what was that big nut and the bent washer around the pilot bearing? I don't suppose that hold the flywheel to the crankshaft.

Thanks for sharing your information.

JC,


ps. I like the mallard and the goose. I sat in my shack from 7:00 am to 5:30 to fill my last deer with no luck. My temp gauge is graduated between 0 to 220 degree and it was stuck to zero. That does not include wind chill.When I came home, my wife said that they said on TV that the temp went to -3. Yikes my nose had Rudolph like special glow

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Congratulations on a job well done. Like JC, I expected to see bolts holding the flywheel on not a single nut. Apparently a single nut works since I have never heard of any one loosing a flywheel.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

Just FYI ya'll, I did go and check NH website for the way flywheel is attached to crankshaft. It is not bolted on and has big nut that was shown in earlier picture holds it in place.
Look at bolt #7. Part #17 is a key so most probably the flywheel is keyed to keep it from spinning and the nut to hold it tight and bent washer to act as a lock washer.

Tex, I'm eating crow May be it is a bit easier to change the block rear main seal #19. I still think it will not come off wiling if it's been sitting happy for 3o years.

JC,