Ford 1700 injector pump timing

[53GMC]

On my 1900 if I run it out of fuel it is a PITA to get all the air out of the system. Even after bleeding the injectors and getting it running it will take some time for the air to clear out and run smooth.
Bill

It will start up and run right now but it is lagging power and air is still coming out of the lines. I am thinking that maybe a small amount of air is entering the lines and creating a shock absorber when the fuel in being injected into the cylinder? Will yours run before ALL the air is out of the system?

Thanks,
Philip.

 

[mostly_gas]

My 1700 will run poorly if there was some air not bled out. It only take my tractor about 5 minutes or so one it starts to finish purging air if there is some left. Sound like you have an air leak, at filter as a guess.

 

[53GMC]

I am still trying to set the timing on the pump. It has some adjustment where it mounts to the engine. It doesn't seam to make much difference if the pump is moved all the way one way or the opposite way. It will start and idle fine but is lacking power, it will not even go up a slight grade in high range 1st gear. My 8n has a lot more power in 4th gear going up the same spot than this tractor does.

 

[53GMC]

I took the injectors and lines off today to try to check the timing. It seemed like it was pumping fuel when the piston is about halfway up on the compression stroke, which would be advanced way too much! Is there any way to check the timing without taking the head off? Are there any marks on the flywheel, engine pulleys, etc.?

I also noticed that air is in fact coming out of the injector pump. While turning the engine over by hand there were a few vary small bubbles that would come with the fuel. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? And if so what effects does it have on the running ability of the engine?

Thanks for the help.

 

[JC-jetro]

I took the injectors and lines off today to try to check the timing. It seemed like it was pumping fuel when the piston is about halfway up on the compression stroke, which would be advanced way too much! Is there any way to check the timing without taking the head off? Are there any marks on the flywheel, engine pulleys, etc.?

I also noticed that air is in fact coming out of the injector pump. While turning the engine over by hand there were a few vary small bubbles that would come with the fuel. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? And if so what effects does it have on the running ability of the engine?

Thanks for the help.

Here is what you are asking. Look at the pic below and the attached PDF file that has step by step direction.'
JC,

 

[53GMC]

Here is what you are asking. Look at the pic below and the attached PDF file that has step by step direction.'
JC,

Thanks! That helped a lot. I will check it tonight and let you know what I find out. My manual is still in the mail

 

[53GMC]

After locating marks on crankshaft pulley I found out they appear to be off. Neither cylinder is close to TDC when it is on ether one of the marks. The manual says to remove the valve springs to let the valve set on top of the piston if you are in doubt of the pulley accuracy. Can you remove the valve spring and reinstall it without removing the head?

Thanks.

 

[JC-jetro]

After locating marks on crankshaft pulley I found out they appear to be off. Neither cylinder is close to TDC when it is on ether one of the marks. The manual says to remove the valve springs to let the valve set on top of the piston if you are in doubt of the pulley accuracy. Can you remove the valve spring and reinstall it without removing the head?

Thanks.

I have never done the procedure myself as there never was a need for me. I was cognizant of the timing issue and that's why I put the witness mark barring any other changes. I would for sure take the battery off the tractor so there will be no chance of piston coming up and meeting the valve. Squeezing the spring to take the valve keeper is easy enough. The problem is how to put it back in as you have to be able to have a very tiny needle nose to hold the valve steam up before putting the keeper in. I suppose you can use a very fin fishing line and wrap it on the stem pull it up by someone's help and then put the keeper in. The plastic will melt off and go away without leaving any mark. I'm just thinking it out loud so a healthy pinch of salt is in order. You need to verify if crankshaft pulley is keyed to the crankshaft end and it can be 180 deg out. I can take measurement of the pointer in reference to something if that helps. Taking the head off is a big can of worm that should not be opened unnecessarily.

JC,

 

[Cecil Stults]

It is sometimes possible to see where the pump was sitting by looking at the paint closely. or look for wear marks or some evidence of a footprint of where it was.

Yes best bet is to set it according to a manual .

 

[53GMC]

It looks like I am going to be taking it apart to set the timing. It is off much more than you can set externally When I remove the hyd pump do I need to drain the fluid first?

Thanks!