Ford 1710 starting problem

   / Ford 1710 starting problem #11  
Don't forget to run your block heater extension cord through the steering wheel so it doesn't have to disconnect itself when you drive off.
 
   / Ford 1710 starting problem #12  
If you moved wiring and now it wont turn over, you may have a wire that is broken inside insulation. Check fuses also as you may have touched a hot wire to ground by accident. As for running block heater all the time; No need to do that. You can put it on a timer or just turn it on an hour before use.
 
   / Ford 1710 starting problem #13  
Should I leave the block heater plugged in all the time in below freezing weather or will that cause problems? If I do leave it unplugged how long does it generally take to warm it up? And does it use a lot of electricity?

I would not leave it plugged in all the time. I plug my 1910 in for about 2 hours, 3 if it is below zero, and it starts right up. I think the heater is at least 400 watts, it may be more. That is like leaving four 100 watt lamps on all the time.

Like your 1710, my 1910 became harder to start cold as the years went by. After having the fuel injection pump rebuilt it got even harder. I replaced the glow plugs but it did not help. I have wondered if the low sulphur fuel has anything to do with starting. That is about the time my pump seals failed too. Just don't know.
 
   / Ford 1710 starting problem #14  
I do not leave mine plugged in all the time, just a couple of hours prior to. If I were going to leave something plugged in all the time, I'd proabably downsized to something much lower in wattage.

Another consideration. If your tractor is parked outdoors, or the building not completely rodent-proof, I would not leave it plugged in for very long. Mice just love a warm engine-block for building a nest and the wires for chewing!
 
   / Ford 1710 starting problem #15  
I switched to 5w 30 synthetic oil; world of difference when cold in starting. Make sure your battery cables are good. Connections can be clean but corrosion in cable itself is not unheard of. Make sure ground connection at frame is clean. Can check for resistance in cables to see if you have a corrosion issue or just replace cables with new.

Me too, except mine is the T-Synthetic 5w-40. Last time I checked, Walmart still was selling it in the gallon for less than $20. Yes, for me it has made a huge difference in how well it cranks and how quickly the oil light goes out.
 

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