ford 1910, can't find parts

[mtnwings]

Wow, Just got off the phone with Brian at Messicks, he was not happy that I had not gotten a call back and was very helpful finding all the details in this search, well, as we already knew a new head does not exist for the Ford 1910 , the pre chambers no longer exist either, even a new engine no longer comes with a head, he contacted dealers and junk yards all over the country and said no one has this head. Guess I will be going with the only place (All State Ag) that has a used head on a junker and hope the pre chamber is still good on this one. If any of you have this tractor get rid of it while it still runs, DAM! Well, I still have my MF 35 and it runs like new, guess that's because I completely rebuilt it for under $600.00 about 8 years ago and it will run forever and parts will always be available for it and cheap.

 

[fried1765]

Wow, Just got off the phone with Brian at Messicks, he was not happy that I had not gotten a call back and was very helpful finding all the details in this search, well, as we already knew a new head does not exist for the Ford 1910 , the pre chambers no longer exist either, even a new engine no longer comes with a head, he contacted dealers and junk yards all over the country and said no one has this head. Guess I will be going with the only place (All State Ag) that has a used head on a junker and hope the pre chamber is still good on this one. If any of you have this tractor get rid of it while it still runs, DAM! Well, I still have my MF 35 and it runs like new, guess that's because I completely rebuilt it for under $600.00 about 8 years ago and it will run forever and parts will always be available for it and cheap.

I have the Ford 1920, and to date, parts have been relatively easy to find.
Hopefully that will continue.
Messick's is ..... THE BEST!
If I ever buy a new tractor it will be from Messick's, even though they are 450 miles away.

 

[TimberHole]

Can you post a picture of your head and the chamber? It would be helpful to those of us that might ru across one of these in the future. Why can't you have a chamber machined? Have you taken your head to a qualified local machine shop that does head work? I apologize if you have already provided that info and I missed it.

 

[Spiros]

Slow down just a bit and consider that a cracked precombustion chamber may do nothing more than cause hard starting and rough running until the engine is warmed up. Take that head to an auto machine shop and have it looked at. If you can put up with the above then, save some money.

 

[mtnwings]

I was told by the nations biggest ford dealers and company's that send heads out to be re manufactured that the term for a head with a cracked pre chamber is "boat anchor", it seems that is a universal term for a head that is not fixable. I am however going to take it to my guy, his business is actually called "heads up" he machines heads for me as well as presses new sleeves into my blocks when I am rebuilding an engine so he will know. he is just not close by me. The prechamber is (was) a replaceable part but is no longer available as the heads are no longer available either. Funny, a new head use to cost around $400.00 less than a re manufactured head. BTW, the cylinder with the cracked chamber has only 80 lbs of pressure, valves are good, rings are good. yes it still runs but hey. I have been watching the salvage yards, there sure a lot of Ford 1910's being scrapped. just saying. Who else out there on this site has had this same problem?

 

[mtnwings]

comment to "Fried 1765", I believe the 1920 has a four cylinder engine right? I wonder if it is a from the same manufacturer. Yes, I see that most all parts are available for that engine, lucky you. LOL want to trade?

 

[fried1765]

comment to "Fried 1765", I believe the 1920 has a four cylinder engine right? I wonder if it is a from the same manufacturer. Yes, I see that most all parts are available for that engine, lucky you. LOL want to trade?

I feel your pain!
I bought my 1920 two years ago, but could have easily fallen into the same trap as you.
The one thing I did pay attention to was that the 1910 was only built for 3 years for a total of 8200 units.
The 1920 was built for 13 years, with a total of over 22,000 units. Nothing like my old 8N with 800,000 units though.
The 22,000 number did give me some confidence about parts availability.
That said: If I ever find a junk 1920 cheap, I will likely try to buy it for parts.
Would I trade my 1920?
HE!! NO ... !!!
It only had 1056 hours, but now I have gone through it mechanically, with new rims, tires, clutch, etc, and a complete repaint as well.
It looks like new!
Of course: I probably now have more money in it than I should.
I could have bought a new 32HP FEL tractor, but I wanted a relatively small tractor that was simple, and one that I could fix myself.

I am fortunate, in that I also just completed refurbishment of my Ford 3400 TLB
That is a 44HP tractor with real work capabilities.

 

[mtnwings]

Yeah, should have done my home work, thanks for the production numbers, that is very helpful and good to know. I will get this running and sell it. The tractor itself is very tight and the loader is tight as well. The loader needs paint so I will do that, the tractor looks like it had been refurbished and painted all ready with good rubber and it came with a spare tire and wheel for the rear. I did get it for a fairly good price and I am sure I can make a little on it, I was hoping to make a lot on it, oh well. I am going to start looking for a 1920. Thanks again.

 

[mtnwings]

Hello all,
While I wait for the back ordered cyl sleeves to come in I figured I would continue working on the rest of this tractor. Low and behold there is nothing available for this tractor. Anyone have any idea where I can find the tie rod end for the steering rod on this 1910? I can find one for every tractor made in the world except for this one, WTF!!!

 

[TheGoose]

I have one too ( belonged to my father in law who has since retired). It has less than 500 hours on it. Once I tried to buy a new radiator for it and it was like $800. I said no way and am still using the old one. The lip that holds the cap on is a little messed up. I also had to repair one of the tie rods as it got bent but we welded it back and it works fine.