ford 1910, can't find parts

[CincyFlyer]

Hello all,
While I wait for the back ordered cyl sleeves to come in I figured I would continue working on the rest of this tractor. Low and behold there is nothing available for this tractor. Anyone have any idea where I can find the tie rod end for the steering rod on this 1910? I can find one for every tractor made in the world except for this one, WTF!!!

Measure the thread diameter and pitch, you can make something work.

 

[mtnwings]

good morning all, I finally ( after weeks of searching) found a great supply of ford 1910 parts both new and used. I am at home now so I am not really sure of the name but I believe it is Tractorhouse.com I will look to make sure when I get to the shop and let you know. Scott talked with me for an hour, searched more than 15 (at least) 1910's in their salvage area with more coming in every week and also had new parts in stock or while I waited did searches to other suppliers and found what I needed, even at better prices that what I had found prior, mostly. They even called me back twice to tell me if he had found some part I needed. He took me to a site on the PC so I could look at and confirm the correct part so now I have a complete parts breakdown saved in my "book marks" to bring up any time I need it. New Holland, who bought the Ford compact tractor line now have available parts also for these tractors, they didn't for a long time I guess. The tie rod end I need he had both new and used but at the new price of this very hard part to find is the highest price part of any tractor made so I opted for a used one that he guaranteed I would be happy with, yes, guaranteed it and said if it has any slop to send it back, nice. that was $60.00 bucks so you can imagine the price of a new one. Today I will attempt to pull the pistons out, the end caps from the connecting rods are off but the groves in the cylinders created by the rings are so deep the rings will never go past them and my three blade hone will not help so I will be using my hand held grinder to smooth the grooves in hopes the get the rings to slip by. The new sleeves should be here this week. I still need to design my sleeve puller, having a new sleeve in hand will make this easier to do, I love being creative and to have the opportunity to use my welding equipment, oh goodie,

 

[TimberHole]

I made my sleeve puller from a couple of plates about 2 -/2" wide. One is trimmed just shy of the sleeve od and the other is trimmed just shy of the sleeve id . Tack the plates together, drill a hole in the center, add a piece of all thread and you have a custom puller.

 

[mtnwings]

Nice, I wish I knew how to use my camera and post photos. This is similar to my idea, the lower plate idea I have, because the lower plates I have are 3/8 thick and curved as I cut them from a steel pipe almost the exact diameter needed. I cut a one inch section out of the pipe and then cut that in half. I then trimmed a 1/4 inch off of both these and I will be welding nuts on the inside of each so I have an adjustable diameter to use on other jobs. a nut will be welded in the center for the center post up to the puller. I know this sounds hard to understand so I will get a friend (kid) to show me how to post photos. LOL What are the wires doing that I see in your photo?

 

[TimberHole]

That overhaul was in frame so the crank was still in she engine. The wire allowed me to drop the plates in from the top and then screw in the all thread. This puller won't go in the hole with the all thread screwed into the plate.

 

[mtnwings]

I am doing the same thing, engine is still bolted to the tranny in the frame, with the crank still in the block. This is what I was thinking when I started this, drop it in from the top and then spread the two pieces to catch the bottom of the sleeve. I have never seen one or done this as I usually take the block to "my guy" to remove and replace the sleeves. This my first attempt to do it myself so it is a big learning thing for me and any excuse to use my welder is fun. I never thought about the crank being in the way to do this so the two piece thing I am building will make this possible ( it was not thought about at the time, funny) I still have not removed enough of the ring groove to get the pistons out, there is a very deep and sharp groove at the top of the cylinder.

 

[TimberHole]

The factory puller is similar in style to what you describe. I think you will want something to keep an outward pressure on the jaws. Mine were wet sleeves and it doesn't take that much force to pull them. I was also concerned that my puller didn't score the block as it came up thru the hole. I ended up just tracing the liner on the plate and using a hand grinder. My plates are a bit crude but they work well.

 

[mtnwings]

Mine are wet sleeves also, they just came in today. the pieces of steel I will be using are a perfect fit with the outside diameter of the sleeves. I plan on welding something on the inside so they can't go out wider than the sleeve but I will be able to make them smaller by turning two nuts on the inside that will pull the two sleeves together. . This I will be using with a very big puller I already have only the jaws will be grabbing the new piece I am building. I am glad to hear that the wet sleeves come out easy.

 

[mtnwings]

I finished my version of the sleeve puller yesterday, I wish I could post a photo but I am still feeling very stupid with this technology and cant seem to post photos. I will attempt to pull my sleeves today. A friend told me I should have used a fine thread puller rod and not the course thread I used. I used it because I had it and it is the same as you have, did it seem to work out for you? How much force was needed to pull the sleeves?

 

[TimberHole]

Course thread should work fine. In my experience it should only take about the force exerted by torqueing/turning the course thread nut with a long rachet. If it doesn't move I would put a good tension on it and tap the puller with a hammer. You'll be able to detect a little movement as you will ba able to turn that nut just a tiny bit. Once you get it moving it will come out pretty easy. Personally I would avoid using an impact.