jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,059
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
From the parts list, there are two thermometers. One is 180 degrees SBA145206182 and the other is 190 degrees and SBA145206130. If you have a severely cold winter and your tractor does not warm up enough, I'd go with the 190 degree thermostat. If your tractor is getting up to temperature okay in the winter, then it's common to just leave a 180 degree thermostat in year-around.
pedalstomper78
Gold Member
Looks like there were 3 different temperatures that will fit in that tractor. According to New Holland, anything made after 01/90 in the 1920 tractor took a 190 degree thermostat. Looks like PartsSpring and TractorHelp both have it with tractor help being a bit cheaper.
New Holland Thermostat 190 degree SBA145206130
New Holland SBA145206130 THERMOSTAT
May your days be warm and bright..... (yeah.....terrible...I know) :duh:
New Holland Thermostat 190 degree SBA145206130
New Holland SBA145206130 THERMOSTAT
May your days be warm and bright..... (yeah.....terrible...I know) :duh:
murphy1244
Super Star Member
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- Nov 25, 2011
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- 19,515
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- Ohio
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- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
:welcome:
pedalstomper78
Gold Member
jinman.....
I don't know if you are communicating with my girlfriend or not, but this is like the 3rd time in a few months that I've put something up on my screen, she's called me in the other room to fix something....I come back....respond....and found that you did it 20 minutes before me. Too funny. LOL
I don't know if you are communicating with my girlfriend or not, but this is like the 3rd time in a few months that I've put something up on my screen, she's called me in the other room to fix something....I come back....respond....and found that you did it 20 minutes before me. Too funny. LOL
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,059
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Pedalstomper, we use different sources and sometimes come up with different data. I found that the 180 degree thermometer was listed for the 1920 in years 1990-1998 in addition to the 190 degree one. Prior to 1990, they even had a 160 degree thermometer suggested.
pedalstomper78
Gold Member
I usually use the New Holland or Case/IH site for my lookup. Then I'll go to google with the part number to see the top one or two that has it. I've found TractorHelp is usually a buck or two less than the others, so I'll hit them also.
Where do you usually go? I'm always up for finding more sources for information. After all, it's the internet. LOL
Where do you usually go? I'm always up for finding more sources for information. After all, it's the internet. LOL
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 21,059
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
I go to messicks.com usually. They have the parts lookup set in a way I like. I go to this link on their site and enter the model number of the tractor or scroll down and enter the part number if I already know it. When I enter the tractor model, I get a list of tractors/years and choose the group I want. Then the tractor's systems show up on the left side of the screen with the diagram and parts list showing up on the right side. I just find this setup easier than Partspring or Tractorhelp. I normally order from Messicks if I'm buying online. They have New Holland, Kubota, Case and many other brands all in one spot. They ship quickly if they have the item in stock and don't charge a big price for handling. You never know for sure what the full cost of an item is until it's delivered. I just like Messicks because of their excellent help and sponsoring TBN. In a day when there is very little customer service, they stand out as caring about their customers and the industry.
ErikVann
Silver Member
Hello I have a question regarding the different temps for the thermostats. I have a 1989 1920. I just noticed that my temp gauge doesn't seem to move at all. I have been running the tractor relatively hard but the air temp is quite low 10s-20s. I don't know if my gauge has a shorted wire and isn't receiving temp infor from the sensor or my tractor just isn't getting up to temp. The radiator seems warm but not hot when the tractor has run for awhile but gauge never registers. Is this a thermostat issue or is it most likely a bad wire from the sensor to the gauge? If I have a 160 deb thermostat could this be causing the problem? Thanks. I am always amazed at the wealth of knowledge here!
Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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- Feb 2, 2008
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- 3,141
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- North Idaho-The Palouse
- Tractor
- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
It could be a thermostat that's sticking open and not allowing the engine to come to temperature. Pull the thermostat and check it out. It's not good to run any engine without a functional thermostat.
pedalstomper78
Gold Member
100% correct. Engine are built to tolerances. Things expand as they get warm. That's why we use a thermostat to regulate that expansion. Running it cold leads to looser tolerances and more wear to put it simply.
For as cheap as a thermostat it, just replace it and eliminate it as a problem. It's a cheap replacement part and gives you an excuse to change out the coolant at the same time to keep everything else in good condition.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Your sending unit is a variable Resistance type temperature sensor. Cold resistance about 700 ohms, (might vary some from makes or model) , operating about 140 ohms, 80 to 100 ohms. Again these are the number for my Ford 1700 and there is some variability. If when you put the key in ignition and turn (not crank ) and the temp needle pegs then as soon as engine cranked and running it goes to zero and starts to creep up as the engine get warmer. Do a test by putting the key in to see if the needle pegs, while the key on then remove the lead from the sending device and your meter should peg. That test shows if wiring is intact. next is to verify resistance at cold and then operating temp. report back to compare and contrast.
JC,
JC,
ErikVann
Silver Member
Ok so I did the test as described by JC. When I turn the key but not crank the temp gauge stays put. Fuel gauge climbs but temp is stationary. If I disconnect the lead to the thermo and ground it the gauge climbs. So am I correct to assume that there is not a bad wire between the thermo and the gauge. So is the next step to pull the thermostat? When I do this should I drain all the antifreeze first? Sorry for the newbie question I am a new comer to most things mechanical. Which thermostat should i plan to install if that is the case? should i plan to change the thermostat seasonally as was alluded to by someone earlier in the thread? I also noticed that the radiator cap seems to have had some overflow. I am not positive about this because I did remove the cap recently while it was warm.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Eric,
On my 1700 when I out the key in "on" position not crank, it pegs and let me know the circuit in in place. On some I know it does not peg on "on" position but creeps up as the engine heats up. Grounding it and it and the needle pegging is indication of " good wring". Before I go to t-stat check, I would try to read cold and hot ohms out on the sending device. That costs no money and no effort. if don't see variance in resistance then the sensor is bad. I'd replace the sensor and test it out, if all's well then i leave it be. If no change then I go to T-stat checking. You need to drain a cold engine enough to lower the water level below the t-stat to take out and change. I'd save that coolant if it looks good in a clean bucket, use coffee filter to filter and put it back in. You can test the t-stat in ice water and then in boiling water to see if it actually opens and closes. If I go to the effort of taking it our I'd just put a new one in. Let's do what is non-destructive first before you go to a more detailed work. Cap has a spring that opens up at 7 or 15 psi. your cap might be not sealing tight or it's stuck open.
JC,
ErikVann
Silver Member
When I remove the wire from the sensor is that the thermostat or is that in another location? How do I go about reading cold and hot ohms? Is that engine temp? And where should I be testing for the ohms? I assume at the sensor and the gauge. Does that require dismantling the dash?
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Erik,
Have you ever used an Ohm meter? Not a big deal if you have not. OHM meter has a battery that provide a bit of current in to a circuit and measures in Ohm the resistance whole or part of a circuit. The body of the sending device is grounded or negative. Use on wire from the ohm meter and with an alligator clip to the electrical connection (same place where you took the sending wire off and grounded it) , the other wire need to be connected to a good ground, not on paint, and then read the ohm. ohm meter can also be a voltmeter as well. make sure it is set to ohms, and the range is where you can read under 1000 ohm for a better reading, don't use K-ohm(ohmsx1000). do this with engine cold and record. Turn the engine on and let it get good and hot, turn the engine off and read the ohm again making sure not to burn yourself, record ohm. come back with your result to see if that sheds any light toward proper diagnosis.
JC,
90cummins
Veteran Member
Can't tell you what is recommended but I will say I installed a 190 deg in my Ford 1720.
I refused to get the business from Ford NH so I purchased it from Advance Auto after I went thru their entire bin to match the style & size.
My T stat was oval/off center so I modified a premium symmetrical Stant to match the original and have had no issues.
I opted for the 190deg because I want the engine to warm up thourghly and stay warm while it is performing low power tasks, diesels love HEAT!
90cummins
I refused to get the business from Ford NH so I purchased it from Advance Auto after I went thru their entire bin to match the style & size.
My T stat was oval/off center so I modified a premium symmetrical Stant to match the original and have had no issues.
I opted for the 190deg because I want the engine to warm up thourghly and stay warm while it is performing low power tasks, diesels love HEAT!
90cummins
