Thanks to all..i finally got to it a bit..i changed oil with a quart of engine flush cleaner,basically fancy kerosene,,ran it and i got a few drops of antifreeze out of blowby...changed oil and filter proper,ran it for a while and got no antifreeze and less smoke out of blowby,,still a few drops of milky dirty goo...motor runs quiet!!...all my gauges are out,,i think tstat works...
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
you can boil it an check.. or just replace it..
soundguy
soundguy
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
My buddy has one of these and he is going to sell it now that he just fixed up a slightly newer Ford 2610 diesel. It has been a good little tractor, he just wanted a diesel as he has a diesel tank on his farm to feed his larger tractors.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- 51,575
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
the NS switch simply interrupts power from the key to the solenoid.
if you are truly in neutral.. IE.. the tractor will roll, then you can bypass the ns switch real simply with a straight pin pushed thru both wires that come out of the top of the trans.. then giver her a try at cranking while setting int he seat... for safety..
soundguy
if you are truly in neutral.. IE.. the tractor will roll, then you can bypass the ns switch real simply with a straight pin pushed thru both wires that come out of the top of the trans.. then giver her a try at cranking while setting int he seat... for safety..
soundguy
Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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- New Holland TD95D, Ford 4610 & Kubota M4500
Some times wiggling the stick helps a sticking Neutral Safety Switch.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
and if the connection becomes resistive.. you can use it to run a relay, and have the relay power the solenoid.
soundguy
soundguy
Soundguy what do you think. Sorry to jump in on this thread, but I'm getting fustrated.
I got a Ford 4000 3 cyl that runs very rough. I had New Holland rebuild thr carb, but still have the same problem. When I installed the rebuilt carb, I couldn'get it to start. In doing some testing, I found I have no spark. Put on a new coil, but the same and rechecked the points. What I did discouver was jumping the + side of the coil to the + of the batt it started, but runs really rough and at time backfires. Took the jumper off and It started to settle down and ran pretty good for a while then back to the rough running thing. For sure, I have to do the same jumper to the coil to get it started. I pulled the three plugs and they were fairly black which tells me it's running rich. It runs better at low rpm's, but as I advance the throttle, it starts running really rough and backfires occasionally. Is there a possibility the vacuum advance is not working and why do I need to jumper the coil?
HELP!
I got a Ford 4000 3 cyl that runs very rough. I had New Holland rebuild thr carb, but still have the same problem. When I installed the rebuilt carb, I couldn'get it to start. In doing some testing, I found I have no spark. Put on a new coil, but the same and rechecked the points. What I did discouver was jumping the + side of the coil to the + of the batt it started, but runs really rough and at time backfires. Took the jumper off and It started to settle down and ran pretty good for a while then back to the rough running thing. For sure, I have to do the same jumper to the coil to get it started. I pulled the three plugs and they were fairly black which tells me it's running rich. It runs better at low rpm's, but as I advance the throttle, it starts running really rough and backfires occasionally. Is there a possibility the vacuum advance is not working and why do I need to jumper the coil?
HELP!
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
sounds like it could be multiple problems.
1, do check the vacume advance mech, 2, check the timing. but check advance first.
3, that machine, if like other 3 cyl gassers, uses resistor wire from key to coil, .. check all your conenctions from the key to the coil. you said new coil.. what type? oem 6v style or a new repop 12v generic?
1, do check the vacume advance mech, 2, check the timing. but check advance first.
3, that machine, if like other 3 cyl gassers, uses resistor wire from key to coil, .. check all your conenctions from the key to the coil. you said new coil.. what type? oem 6v style or a new repop 12v generic?
Thanks for getting back to me. I'm going to work on it today and I will do as you suggest. The new coil is a NAPA 12 with outside resister as the old one was. I have good spark off the coil, but I feel the spark at the plug are weak. I'll trace down the resister wire and see what I can find there. It's been a hair puller. Runs good one day and the next day not.
