Ice is tough to deal with - just look at how many users here on this forum put chains on front and rear of their 4wd machines as sometimes even 4wd alone is not enough. Also, 2 foot of snow is also tough to deal with too. If you get this amount of snow on a regular basis then I would be looking for a 3-pt rear blower and I would defintely be adding chains for future use - and would contemplate trading for a 4wd tractor. If this 2 foot of snow is not really a common occurence, then I would be hiring a custom snow removal company to clean my driveway for this instance. No way would I accept being snowed in/out of my home for 10 days if I could afford to hire someone with the proper equipment. If I could not afford to hire someone then I would hand shovel an area just big enough to get the car off the road and walk the rest of the way to the house and wait for it to melt.
That all said, some fluid in the tires will definitely help your Ford 3000 (I do not like calcium chloride either, but Rimguard, Beet Juice, Winshield washer fluid, or diluted RV antifreeze and water are all okay). Also if your 3000 is lucky enough to have the optional differential lock then use that too on the straightaways. Of course chains would be very benenficial and would be advisable and work well in your case since you have a gravel driveway so you need not worry about the chains damaging any pavement.
FWIW: I definitely would NOT remove the box blade to add a carryall filled with firewood in an attempt to add more weight. If you want to add more weight to the implement, figure out how to add/stack/chain it to the box blade so you can still use the box blade to plow with - the caryall is useless for anything else besides weight from a snow moving perspective. I actually like a box blade over my regular blade on the rear of my lightweight Kubota
L285 FEL 2wd tractor which is a little smaller than your Ford 3000. I do have some fluid in the R1 rears and I am lucky enough to have differential lock on the Kubota. Box blades are almost always heavier than regular blades so it adds weight back there for increased traction and is heavy enough to be used as a snow pusher in reverse without riding up over the snow as most tractors do not have down pressure on the 3-point hitch and simply rely on the weight of the implement for all down pressure. I simply use a series of herring-bone travel patterns, a series of Y-patterns, or even a series of X-patterns to accomplish all my plowing. Use FEL bucket as an improvised pusher anytime going forward and rear boxblade as a pusher anytime going backwards - actually very little in wasted motions as you are moving snow when going in either direction and pick the travel pattern that best fits the area.
Contrastly, my rear rear blade is a nightmare to use: With it angled I simply get pushed around everywhere and have little to no control of going where I want to go. Not good for working in the tight areas that I need to do. With the blade straight it does not have enough weight to even be used as a simple pusher when traveling in reverse - wants to ride up over the snow due to being too light. I guess I could look into adding weight to this blade, but I like the box blade better with the scarfier teeth simply pointing in the air. Your results may vary, but my only hope would be to add tire chains if I wanted to use the regular rear blade as an angled plow. Actually, I am considering selling my regular blade as I rarely use it.