Ford 3000 clutch issue

[MMagis]

I've had an issue with the clutch on my ?9 (I think) Ford 3000, gas tractor for a while, and it's getting bad enough that it's time to get it fixed. It's not a normal worn clutch issue, and though I had someone tell me what was likely causing it, it's been long enough that my brain decided I didn't need that information anymore. The issue is the clutch slips after depressing the clutch. The more I hold the clutch down, the worse it slips. If I "pop" the pedal it usually takes off, but if I have to work the clutch repeatedly for the job I'm doing it gets to the point it doesn't want to go at all. During the summer it was barely a problem, but since it's cooled down it's giving me a lot of trouble. And now is when I need to feed the cows regularly, so I can't have it quitting on me. From what I recall, there's a seal leaking internally that's allowing oil to get on the clutch. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Thanks for any help.

 

[Browntroutman]

Do you have any fluid dripping out of the small drain hole at the bottom of the transmission, close to where it meets the engine? (this hole may have a cotter pin hanging out of it)

 

[fried1765]

Do you have any fluid dripping out of the small drain hole at the bottom of the transmission, close to where it meets the engine? (this hole may have a cotter pin hanging out of it)

Browntroutman:
Your comment brings to mind a question.
Why is the cotter pin in that hole anyway?
I understand that the hole is for drainage, but why did they then nearly plug it with a cotter pin?
Others have suggested enlarging the hole, for better drainage, when replacing the clutch.
I did that last year, and then used a larger cotter pin as a replacement pin.
I put a cotter cotter pin back in because there had been one there.

 

[Browntroutman]

Before I reply, I need to point out that I am not a mechanic, and only bought my first tractor a few months ago, so take anything I say with a grain of salt! I did however get a quick lesson in Ford 3000 clutches, as the one in my tractor was shot (despite the claims of the seller that everything was in working order). Someone else told me that the cotter pin was there to keep the hole clear. Every now and then you can grab it and give it a quick spin to remove any oily crud that may be plugging up the drain hole. In my case it was the PTO clutch that was shot, not the main drive clutch, and it was most likely a result of transmission oil leaking past one of the 2 seals on the transmission side and soaking the clutch so that it slipped. There is also the rear main seal on the engine side that can leak, and I have to wonder if this one would affect the drive clutch more than the PTO clutch. Perhaps a more experienced member can chime in here. In the end, I bought a clutch kit and replaced the seals as well. The seals are cheap (at least in the States they are-here in Canada they are stupidly expensive), and they are easy to change. I am a complete beginner, and managed to do it myself without any trouble. It does of course require splitting the tractor, which is a bit of a chore!

 

[Opti-Mist]

We used to refer to that pin as a "jiggle" pin as it would jiggle around during use and help to keep the hole clear.

 

[Bigfoot62]

I've had an issue with the clutch on my ?9 (I think) Ford 3000, gas tractor for a while, and it's getting bad enough that it's time to get it fixed. It's not a normal worn clutch issue, and though I had someone tell me what was likely causing it, it's been long enough that my brain decided I didn't need that information anymore. The issue is the clutch slips after depressing the clutch. The more I hold the clutch down, the worse it slips. If I "pop" the pedal it usually takes off, but if I have to work the clutch repeatedly for the job I'm doing it gets to the point it doesn't want to go at all. During the summer it was barely a problem, but since it's cooled down it's giving me a lot of trouble. And now is when I need to feed the cows regularly, so I can't have it quitting on me. From what I recall, there's a seal leaking internally that's allowing oil to get on the clutch. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Thanks for any help.

The cold might be making matters worse, but it sounds like the pressure plate springs are just about worn out. I would be making preparations for a new clutch, if I were you.

We used to refer to that pin as a "jiggle" pin as it would jiggle around during use and help to keep the hole clear.

Correct. The loose-fitting pin prevents dirt daubers from plugging the hole. If the seal leaks, you want it to drain out, not fill up the bell housing.

 

[MMagis]

Sorry it took me so long, I've been on a little holiday break and haven't logged in.
Yes, it leaks oil through that hole, though it has been for 15-20 years. I think while it's split, it probably makes sense to go ahead and replace the clutch, rear main seal and trans seal.
Thanks for the help.