Ford 3000 w/ older front loader - pump driveshaft hub info please!

[CircleRat]

Thanks for the input Rick. Parts are expensive! I agree a custom shaft is a good solution, but since I already have the 10-spline shaft and matching hub, don't ya'll think it makes sense to see if I can mount the 10-spline hub to my front pulley first? Maybe fabricating an adapter plate, or welding four 2-3/4" spaced studs to the pulley face. That way I wouldn't have to shell out another $200+ for the parts with shipping and all.

The shaft length might be a problem, but there may be some adjustability using spacers on the pump mounting bracket or the hub. I think it's worth a try anyway...

 

[Soundguy]

if you are going to mod the pully and hub.. i'd take it to a machinist to do the work to get it concentric and true.

 

[CircleRat]

if you are going to mod the pully and hub.. i'd take it to a machinist to do the work to get it concentric and true.

Absolutely. While I do have some basic welding & fabrication skills, it's critical that the hub is perfectly centered. Don't want the dang thing vibrating to pieces. Besides, a good machinist would likely suggest improvements on my ideas.

 

[CircleRat]

Okay fellas, finally got around to removing the pulley and taking some pics.

On the left is the '65 3000 front pulley, on the right is the 10-spline hub for the loader pump (made for '64 & earlier 801 series/4000 models):

As you can see, the bolt holes don't match up (4" hole spacing on the pulley, 2-3/4" hole spacing on the hub):

Additionally, when the large bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft is in place:

The hub won't fit flush to the pulley because the bolt head is bigger than the recess under the hub:

So - what I'm thinking is having a 3/4" thick round steel adapter plate made with four 4" spaced holes to bolt to the pulley, and four 2-3/4" spaced threaded holes offset to bolt the hub to. The plate will also need to be recessed underneath to clear the front pulley washer, and the center hole big enough to access the bolt head (size 1-1/8"). Something like this:

By doing it this way. none of the components such as the shaft, pulley, or hub will need to be cut, welded, or otherwise modified. The whole thing can be taken apart and put back the way it was, so the loader pump will still fit on a 801 series/4000 tractor as it was originally designed simply by omitting the adaptor plate.

Sound like a plan? Any suggestions how to improve, make easier/better, or other ideas? :confused3:

 

[RickB]

Looks like an awesome solution.

 

[skylarkguy]

That looks like a great solution! Seems like you need a high degree of precision, but that should be doable with all the parts on the bench. Let us know how it goes.

 

[CircleRat]

Thanks guys. My measurements are far from exact, the spacing between the holes are just approximate. I will be taking the hub & pulley to a machinist next week so he can get the exact measurements and build the adapter plate. I'll be sure to post pics and correct the drawing in case anyone wants to copy it for their own use.

 

[Soundguy]

post pics of the conversion plate when done.

better yet.. template on heavy paper.. you likely are not the only person wanting to do this conversion

 

[CircleRat]

Yes I will do my best to provide pics and as accurate of a drawing or template I can do so others can have this adapter made if they wish. I re-measured the bolt hole spacing center-to-center with a tape measure and it appears the 2-3/4" between the hub holes is correct. On the pulley it looks closer to 3-15/16" instead of 4".

I talked to a machine shop and they said they can do the job for about $42 for the steel and $60 labor. I'll provide them with both the pulley and the hub and a copy of my drawing to give them a basic idea. I'll drop the stuff off Monday and it'll be about a week before they can get to it.

Of course once I get the adapter back and install it, there's the matter of mounting the front pump. I have a bracket supposedly off another 3000 but we shall see. There's the shaft length to consider, so some shimming or other modifications may be in order. I'll do my best to document the entire process step-by-step.

 

[Soundguy]

once you get the critical fitup and ballance on the hub.. mounting the pump is just cutting and welding..