Ford 3000 won't crank to start

[radios1]

Couldn't turn it after I removed the injectors, so am treating with acetone/ATF I will check it this Saturday.

water is NOT a good lubricant for metal, just be prepared..

 

[rwridle]

Couldn't turn it after I removed the injectors, so am treating with acetone/ATF I will check it this Saturday.

Another reason I know there is water in the system is the oil level increased. Water will be on the bottom of the oil pan and won't show on the dipstick.

Before I started it, the last time it started, I removed 3 quarts of oil to correct the oil level. When I drained the oil, I thought it looked less viscous as than it should. I didn't think I had a blown gasket. /QUOTE]

 

[rwridle]

Loaded her on the trailer and took to a mechanic who has dealt with this problem before. Checked for water in the oil and confirmed there is none, which is good. The level in the radiator is also normal. Poured marvel mystery oil to the cylinders and will let it soak for another week. The mechanic thinks it may be an problem with hydraulic fluid leaking into the engine casing. He has seen this before. I will update again after the mech gets into it. She is worth fixing. Thanks for all the support!

 

[Texasmark]

I hate to say this, but I think your oil pump has failed, and that's why the engine seized. think about it, a fine running engine slows down, then eventually seizes, without any noise.. if the crank or a piston rod broke, you'd hear that!..

Sounds very reasonable to assume.

So my next question would be the mechanism....low hour tractor, been sitting up a long time.....he didn't mention oil amount or condition. I did an inframe on my 3000 many years ago and don't remember if there was a filter screen over the oil pump intake or not. It could have become clogged vs pump seizure unless it was due to the condition of the oil/amount.

 

[Texasmark]

Could be,
that was my thinking on the very low hours on this tractor - it is still likely a really tight engine and those 3000 cranks are huge for the displacement of a 175 cu engine- they weigh 77 lbs
Journals are larger than many big block American V8s
Loss of oil pressure with large surface area journals could lock the engine. Or just installing a cam bearing without lining up the oil hole
More digging is needed for sure

The black smoke right before the engine stopping could have been from the injection pump injecting more fuel because of the governor was trying to maintain RPM's against whatever caused the increased friction.

Still hoping for something simple and not expensive.

"The black smoke right before the engine stopping could have been from the injection pump injecting more fuel because of the governor was trying to maintain RPM's against whatever caused the increased friction."

If the CAV distributor pump is used.....CAV pumps have a name plate on the side with CAV on it plus the injector lines are at the rear of the pump, not coming out of the top in a straight line........the pump has a fuel advance which is like a spark advance in an old point-condenser distributor ignition system in a car......it shoots extra fuel into the combustion chamber when you need to accellerate, like when the governor sensor says you are lugging and need more fuel to pull out.n

Unburned diesel is black smoke. SD nailed that part of the problem.

On what's associated with your oil pump, parts, and if there is a screen or not to clog here's a parts breakdown:

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

 

[rwridle]

Update with confirmed diagnosis: when I hit the stump, I broke the oil pump off and the engine is siezed on the bottom end. The mechanic hasn't determined what needs to be replaced yet, but looking at crank shaft rods and oil pump.

Amazingly enough, the tractor ran for 3 hours without a functional oil pump and the was no visible external damage to the oil pan .

Thanks again for all the feedback and suggestions!

 

[rwridle]

Final Update - 5 months later: I got the tractor back from the mechanic who diagnosed the problem. I ended up having him take it apart and send it to the local tractor dealer who rebuilt the motor. Total cost for everything ended up being $4500. Finding a shop to rebuild the motor was more difficult than I thought. I live in the Upstate SC in an area famous for NASCAR shops that can build anything. Turns out, the shops have either consolidated or gone out of business and the few engine shops left don't work on tractor motors.

Linked is a video I made of the rebuilt tractor showing a stump guard that the mechanic made.

1973 Ford 3000 after rebuild with stump guard - YouTube

 

[RoyKing]

I guess your oil light wasn't working? Don't think it was a good investment tractor only worth $3000.00 tops.

 

[sd455dan]

Update with confirmed diagnosis: when I hit the stump, I broke the oil pump off and the engine is siezed on the bottom end. The mechanic hasn't determined what needs to be replaced yet, but looking at crank shaft rods and oil pump.

Amazingly enough, the tractor ran for 3 hours without a functional oil pump and the was no visible external damage to the oil pan .

Thanks again for all the feedback and suggestions!

Glad you Now have a great running tractor, :thumbsup:


My 3000's oil pan was caved in big time (at some point in it's life.)

I eventually sourced a good used non damaged pan and replaced it.

depending on (where) the pan got smacked- I guess it is definitely possible to hit and break the oil pump housing.

I was lucky- apparently yours must of hit just wrong and broke the oil pump housing.


Great idea and install on the oil pan shield.

a Nice looking and running tractor It will probably go another 40 years now.