Ford 3500 Three Cylinder Diesel Simms Injection Pump Removal For Rebuild

[azbinder]

Once you remove the injection pump, DO NOT turn the engine over.

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

Thank you both so much. I think I'm ready to pull it. Hope that after repair, I will be able to shut the fuel valve off without having to prime every time.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I forgot about that Azbinder.!!
THATS a biggie.!!
DO NOT MOVE THE ENGINE OR THE MACHINE once the pump is off..

I’d be happy to tackle the pump for you FFF..
U can contact me directly thru this site..just click on my screen name..

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

I removed the three pump flange to drive gear bolts. The pump doesn't seem to budge. In the attached pictures, can you see any other bolts/nuts that I need to remove? Or, do I just need to pry and pound harder to get the shaft loose from the gear? (I break things easily and I don't want to here). Is it best to remove the starter? Also, see through the lift pump opening the lobe coming up on No. 1. The crankcase was full of fuel.

 

[TractorTech]

I don't remember, but are there threaded holes in the gear to install bolts to push the gear off of the shaft?

 

[azbinder]

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3 bolts, item #44. The one at the bottom will probably need a box end wrench while the back can be removed using a long extension and a universal socket.

Also, if you are going to have a injection pump shop do the work, which I would highly recommend, have them clean and set the injectors also.

 

[thepumpguysc]

True..
These pump aren’t diy friendly..

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

Azbinder referenced bolt #44 with nut and washer (Bolt, 5/16''-24 x 1.46''), three of them. Are you meaning that these three have to come out to release the pump (holes through which they pass circled in blue on the pump diagram attached)? Also, are two of them what I circled in blue in Post #5? One of them is on the back side between the pump and the block? Seems I would have to take the starter and maybe the manifold off to access the backside bolt for removal and replacement. The drawings show nuts and washers backing them up. It seems as though these would be behind the drive gear, which would be an impossibility for #44 bolt removal unless the drive gear were removed. It's got to be easier than this.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U see the 3 bolts in a triangle pattern holding the pump to the block..
There is also 3 in fig 119 that are inside the cover ON THE RADIATOR SIDE.

 

[azbinder]

Azbinder referenced bolt #44 with nut and washer (Bolt, 5/16''-24 x 1.46''), three of them. Are you meaning that these three have to come out to release the pump (holes through which they pass circled in blue on the pump diagram attached)? Also, are two of them what I circled in blue in Post #5? One of them is on the back side between the pump and the block? Seems I would have to take the starter and maybe the manifold off to access the backside bolt for removal and replacement. The drawings show nuts and washers backing them up. It seems as though these would be behind the drive gear, which would be an impossibility for #44 bolt removal unless the drive gear were removed. It's got to be easier than this.

OK, #44 is bolt and washer, no nut. I would probably remove the starter and the complete fuel filter assembly. Don't remember if I ever had to remove the intake manifold, but don't think so. It's been about 35-40 years. I can tell you that it is a pain to get the back bolt out. Just take your time.