Ford 3910 FWD front axle repairs

[ovrszd]

Decided I am tired of oil drips on the shop floor so fixing some leaks. This tractor leaks out of the axle shaft seals which drips from the knuckles and it leaks out of the center section swivel. So I rigged up a stand to hold the tractor in place with the axle removed. Then strapped the axle assembly to an air jack, removed the front wheels, removed the 8 large bolts that holds the assembly in place and wheeled it from under the tractor.

 

[ovrszd]

The axle assembly oscillates on a large bushing assembly at the front and another at the rear. The rear one is where the oil leak is. Although I can't argue with the fact that this tractor is 30 years old and I'm sure I'm the first to work on it, I still am disappointed in the design.

The gear case loads from the rear and it's machined with a neck that provides one wear surface. The other wear surface is a bushing that's fitted into the transfer housing. What holds the bushing in place and prevents it spinning in the case is the grease zerk holder. Remove the holder and the bushing comes right out.

It appears the bushing is almost the same hardness as the machined case neck. So the wear is equally divided between those two. Bummer. The only way to fix any wear on the case housing is to replace it. I'm not even gonna bother to price that piece. The replaceable bushing was over $300. The only oil seal is an O-ring that's fitted into a slot in the transfer housing and then rubs on the gear case housing. It has standing oil against it all the time. I'll smooth the case neck with some emery cloth, install a new bushing and O-ring, and hope for the best...

 

[ovrszd]

When I get the parts I'll put the new bushings and O-ring on then reinstall the axle assembly. Then I'll tackle removing the axle shafts and replacing those seals. I'll post more pics when I do that part.

Once the front axle is done I'll split the tractor and replace the engine rear main seal. I'll start a new thread for that part.

Good times.

 

[square1]

Bored?
Nice post, pics are worth 6,000 words.

 

[murphy1244]

So the wear is equally divided between those two So why even bother with having a bushing?

Its nice having the tools you need.. And finding them when you need them.:thumbsup:

 

[murphy1244]

Bored?
Nice post, pics are worth 6,000 words.

I too like the pics. Keep them coming. I also like a shop that looks like you work in it!:thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Bored?
Nice post, pics are worth 6,000 words.

Can't stand leaks. Yeah pics are worth a lot. I'm always surprised what people see in them that I didn't even notice.

 

[ovrszd]

So the wear is equally divided between those two So why even bother with having a bushing?

Its nice having the tools you need.. And finding them when you need them.:thumbsup:

Yeah, that wear thing really bothers me. I'll do some measurements when I get the new bushing. I don't see as much wear on the replaceable bushing as I do on the housing. I expected to find a replaceable bushing totally worn out and very little wear on the axle housing. Or replaceable bushings on both pieces. At the front side of the axle they are both replaceable. I'm really gonna be bummed if it still leaks.

Sometimes I get a lot of projects going at once and the shop is trashed. I have to stop and put ALL the tools away and start over. Can't find anything....

 

[ovrszd]

I too like the pics. Keep them coming. I also like a shop that looks like you work in it!:thumbsup:

Thanks Murph. As I've said many times, I'm truly Blessed with a nicely equipped shop. And it's good for my Soul to spend the day in it.

 

[sixdogs]

On the housing wear where the bushing contacts it...I once used a Loctite product that filled a gap like this and worked great. Made specifically for this type of application. It was a large bearing race where the hub was really screwed up and even wobbled in the very expensive housing. You probably already know of this product and not sure it would even apply you but worth a mention.

Great thread and the photos really tell the story.

 

[mrmikey]

I once used a Loctite product that filled a gap like this....

I was thinking the same thing, Belzona makes a bunch of products 404 Error page . as does Loctite Loctite metal filled compounds ....Mike

 

[ovrszd]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I'm curious though. If I add a product to the housing neck, how will I machine it down to fit the new outer bushing?? Wouldn't this require removing the housing and taking it to a machine shop with a lathe??

Thanks again for the ideas. I'm all about trying new things. Just don't want to smear something on the housing that I can't remove and ultimately end up buying a new housing.

 

[sixdogs]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I'm curious though. If I add a product to the housing neck, how will I machine it down to fit the new outer bushing?? Wouldn't this require removing the housing and taking it to a machine shop with a lathe??

Thanks again for the ideas. I'm all about trying new things. Just don't want to smear something on the housing that I can't remove and ultimately end up buying a new housing.

If you are talking about the Loctite stuff, you simply put some on the inner portion of the housing and then on the outer part of the "race". The stuff is like a non shrinking and somewhat self expanding product that fills the gaps where the metal had been chewed away. The two metal parts are --bad choice of words here--glued together. The slop between parts in then taken care of by the goo filling the spaces. Heat will separate them later.

There are, or were different products to compensate for different thickness desired to be filled.

In my case mentioned earlier, the race was really sloppy in my hub and there is no way it would work. I put the Loctite on it was good to go and that was the end of the story.

 

[ovrszd]

Sixdogs, I was afraid that's what you were referring to. In my case the axle oscillates on this surface. If I bond the gear case housing to the outer bushing the axle will not oscillate. I think maybe one variety of the Loctite material is designed to fix my problem. But after curing it would require machining to get the surface smooth and the outside diameter of the gear case housing back to the original diameter.

 

[mrmikey]

What's your thoughts on using either one of the metal repair products and seeing if there's a speedy sleeve the correct diameter. If the speedy sleeve wore thru then you'd have the product under it, mind you the bushing would have to be turned down in the ID some. Maybe too much work and too much unknowns to try....Mike

 

[sixdogs]

Sixdogs, I was afraid that's what you were referring to. In my case the axle oscillates on this surface. If I bond the gear case housing to the outer bushing the axle will not oscillate. I think maybe one variety of the Loctite material is designed to fix my problem. But after curing it would require machining to get the surface smooth and the outside diameter of the gear case housing back to the original diameter.

Oops, not good. Maybe get an estimate on the machining cost? But first, dig a little harder.

Sometimes manufacturers sell kits that can partially fix the problem. Maybe in this case it might be a replacement piece of metal that you weld in place after hogging out a space for it. It's worth a look to check a parts book, check the aftermarket parts people that specialize in that tractor and also talk with a shop mechanic at an older NH dealer for his advice. These guys have come across these problems before.

EDIT--Also, PM soundguy on this board. He owns many Ford tractors and really knows his stuff on repairs.

 

[Winmac]

Personally I don't feel the liquid metal is a long term solution but if you want to try it, you need to apply a release agent on the surface that is movable. Any plastic food wrap will do.


Interesting seeing the design of the Ford axle, I always felt that Ford did some strange engineering during that era. I never seen a more convoluted throttle linkage/governor setup as on a Ford 2000.

 

[ovrszd]

I just went to the online parts store to check on the price of a new gear housing. They don't list one. Said it's superseded and to contact dealer. That sound expensive.....

When I get the new outer bushing I'll fit it and see how much slack I still have. If it's minimal I'll put it back together as is. From the wear it appears at least a part of it's life lack of lubrication is the culprit. If the fit is good enough to allow the o-ring to seal and if I keep it lubed, I'm guessing it'll outlast me.

 

[kevingweq]

It is a shame ford did not put a little more effort into the design of the bearings , If only they made a replaceable bearing ,(instead of just a machined surface ) on the pumpkin,
That may be a viable repair if things don't work out for you , A speedi-sleeve was mentioned (great idea ) It believe something more substantial would be in order perhaps, I would have the OD machined down to accept a sleeve of at least 1/8"
or even 3/16" thickness machined .002-.004 " undersize ,preheat the piece and install (quickly) Just a suggestion hopefully some new parts tighten it up enough

You mentioned that the bearing with the zerk adapter was a slip fit , This seems unusual , Is there a possibility that the housing it is installed in has been "beat up " a little bit ?? This would likely be a good candidate for the Loc-tite products discussed earlier in the thread ,

PS great pictures, love em ,
And a very nice tractor also !!

Kevin

 

[ovrszd]

Kevin,

I removed the bushing from the front side carrier housing and flipped it over, to wear on the other side a while. It was just like the rear one. Remove the grease fitting adapter and the bushing slips out. The zerk adapter threads are even pointed slightly on the end to guide the bushing into the right spot. Strange but true....

I bought a replacement bushing for the rear which is close to the O-ring, hoping I'd control the leak. $375 or somewhere around that. WTH. That's why I'm gonna try reusing the front one.