Ford 5000 steering issues

[HUTCHAMUSPRIME]

1965 ford 5000. Has power steering but isn't working right. Previous owner said they rebuilt the pump but it didnt work right after. My steering wheel turns nut moves up and down. It also takes 2 full turns for it to make any noticeable change in the front. I assum theres also an issue with the worm drive in the steering box? Is there a parts kit to rebuilt the steering box?

 

[EdGooding]

The first place that I would check would be Messicks: New Holland 5000 - SERIES - 4 CYL TRACTOR(01/62 - 01/75) Parts Diagrams

I have a digital copy of the dealer parts book. If you want the relevant pages to assist in your overhaul, I'll be happy to post here or send to you.

 

[lman]

You must not have searched too hard. This thread may have as much info as you're going to find.

Ford 5000 power steering issue, veers to the right.

My tractor uses the early style power steering system. I just rebuilt the cylinder, now the system turns to the right without input, not so much that you can’t stop it, but enough that it would be extremely frustrating to operate- you can hold it back without much pressure, but when you let go...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[AntiqueIron]

1965 ford 5000. Has power steering but isn't working right. Previous owner said they rebuilt the pump but it didnt work right after. My steering wheel turns nut moves up and down. It also takes 2 full turns for it to make any noticeable change in the front. I assum theres also an issue with the worm drive in the steering box? Is there a parts kit to rebuilt the steering box?

What I would do is push the steering wheel till you hit the right side end of the play, firmly rest your foot against the pitman arm, and then gently turn the wheel until you feel the pitman arm start to push backwards.

That will tell you if most of your play is in the steering box or in the power steering linkage under the radiator.

Yes, you can rebuild the steering box.
It’s a worm gear, a sliding collar that turns the output shaft, and a couple thrust bearings IIRC.

Probably everything is collectively worn out.

A new steering box can be had from places like yesterdays tractors for about $500, just to weigh the benefits.

Theres a lot of linkage in the front end that wears out too. There should be a total of 5 pins plus the main center pin that you can grease. They all wear over time.

Some are available from NH but with exception of the tapered pin that holds the cylinder to the center arm, most are just simple straight pins you could buy anywhere without too much trouble.

Hope that helps, NJ

 

[HUTCHAMUSPRIME]

What I would do is push the steering wheel till you hit the right side end of the play, firmly rest your foot against the pitman arm, and then gently turn the wheel until you feel the pitman arm start to push backwards.

That will tell you if most of your play is in the steering box or in the power steering linkage under the radiator.

Yes, you can rebuild the steering box.
It’s a worm gear, a sliding collar that turns the output shaft, and a couple thrust bearings IIRC.

Probably everything is collectively worn out.

A new steering box can be had from places like yesterdays tractors for about $500, just to weigh the benefits.

Theres a lot of linkage in the front end that wears out too. There should be a total of 5 pins plus the main center pin that you can grease. They all wear over time.

Some are available from NH but with exception of the tapered pin that holds the cylinder to the center arm, most are just simple straight pins you could buy anywhere without too much trouble.

Hope that helps, NJ

Was reading through the post the guy above posted and it was from your tractor! What did you end up doing with yours? Did you go hydrostatic?

 

[HUTCHAMUSPRIME]

The first place that I would check would be Messicks: New Holland 5000 - SERIES - 4 CYL TRACTOR(01/62 - 01/75) Parts Diagrams

I have a digital copy of the dealer parts book. If you want the relevant pages to assist in your overhaul, I'll be happy to post here or send to you.

I have that manual as well. I just didn't know if someone had a kit already together. I didnt see one from NH in the manual. I created a cart from ebay with the parts I would think need replacing during s rebuild. To be honest, I do a lot of reading at night and I take a medication to sleep. Sometimes my alter ego continues to read, shop, make plans, etc.. I'll wake up and find a cart on Amazon or ebay full of stuff. Unfortunately, there are times I don't know until packages show up at my house. I once bought a 400 dollar toliet seat. I don't remember making this post but I did have my pdf manual open in recent apps so that explains that.

 

[HUTCHAMUSPRIME]

The first place that I would check would be Messicks: New Holland 5000 - SERIES - 4 CYL TRACTOR(01/62 - 01/75) Parts Diagrams

I have a digital copy of the dealer parts book. If you want the relevant pages to assist in your overhaul, I'll be happy to post here or send to you.

Which pages are you looking at? I think i have to go back and look at my tractor to figure out if I have the system from page 75 or page 78

 

[AntiqueIron]

Was reading through the post the guy above posted and it was from your tractor! What did you end up doing with yours? Did you go hydrostatic?

Not yet.

I rebuilt my steering cylinder (bad leak), it leaked again, and now it’s leaking on take 3 from the gland.

My current plan is to use the center arm from a 70+ tractor, with the original box intended for the power steering. I’ll loop the PS lines, remove the cylinder and valve and see if I’m happy with how it steers. If not, I’ll purchase a hydrostatic conversion kit.

I’m at a point of “the definition of insanity is to do the same thing twice and expect different results” with the factory steering.

I’m sure there’s somebody out there who knows these systems and could tell me what I’m doing wrong, but I don’t have the time or financial stamina to keep troubleshooting.

It’s 1500 dollars for a hydrostatic conversion so not cheap, and you’ll need that new center arm regardless. That’s 80 bucks or so.

For a 65-68 tractor with a separate PS reservoir you’ll probably need to make a custom return line also. Could also swap the pump I suppose.

Based on what I’ve seen there is some mixed results as far as rebuilding the original cylinder and valve.

If you elect to disassemble the valve spool, make a note of the length of the spring and seal stack. Duplicate it exactly- even 1/8 turn can make it pull to one side bad.

Oh, and I gave up on that tapered pin coming loose in the frame. Take the drag link off, the valve pivot arm the drag link fits into, as well as the center pin and inner tie rod joints, and the rod end pin on the cylinder, and it should come out as a unit.

Jack the front end up too when you put it back in to make sure it doesn’t wander when you’re underway/less resistance on the front end

Hope this helps

 

[HUTCHAMUSPRIME]

Not yet.

I rebuilt my steering cylinder (bad leak), it leaked again, and now it’s leaking on take 3 from the gland.

My current plan is to use the center arm from a 70+ tractor, with the original box intended for the power steering. I’ll loop the PS lines, remove the cylinder and valve and see if I’m happy with how it steers. If not, I’ll purchase a hydrostatic conversion kit.

I’m at a point of “the definition of insanity is to do the same thing twice and expect different results” with the factory steering.

I’m sure there’s somebody out there who knows these systems and could tell me what I’m doing wrong, but I don’t have the time or financial stamina to keep troubleshooting.

It’s 1500 dollars for a hydrostatic conversion so not cheap, and you’ll need that new center arm regardless. That’s 80 bucks or so.

For a 65-68 tractor with a separate PS reservoir you’ll probably need to make a custom return line also. Could also swap the pump I suppose.

Based on what I’ve seen there is some mixed results as far as rebuilding the original cylinder and valve.

If you elect to disassemble the valve spool, make a note of the length of the spring and seal stack. Duplicate it exactly- even 1/8 turn can make it pull to one side bad.

Oh, and I gave up on that tapered pin coming loose in the frame. Take the drag link off, the valve pivot arm the drag link fits into, as well as the center pin and inner tie rod joints, and the rod end pin on the cylinder, and it should come out as a unit.

Jack the front end up too when you put it back in to make sure it doesn’t wander when you’re underway/less resistance on the front end

Hope this helps

Thanks! I have a 65 with the seperate pump/resvoir setup configuration. The seller kept saying he and has father- in- law had rebuilt the system but the "check vavle" got put in backwards. He was pointing at the pump not the steering components but ..... I feel like I have an "everything is worn" situation The steering wheel moves up and down before anything happens so I'm assuming theres more than one issue here. I think the worm drive is probably wasted. I was looking through the parts manual and im not 100% sure which steering box system I have. When I have some time and financial endurance, I'll probably pull it apart to match up what parts I have unless there's an easier way to identify. I definitely would consider just replacing the whole steering box as a unit if I can find the right aftermarket one. I'm not sure if I even want to try diagnosing the hydraulic portion of the system with a bad steering box. I'm going to take your advice on troubleshooting the wheel issue!