Ford/New Holland 1720 Clutch Overhaul Questions

[jrushlow76]

I am currently in the process of performing an overhaul on the dual clutch on my 1997 Ford/New Holland 1720. The reason for the overhaul is because the transmission clutch engagement point was just at the end of the throw of the pedal so I assumed that the clutch was worn (I did adjust it externally as much as possible).
I now have the tractor split and the clutch removed. I have not yet measured the disc to see how worn it is. My question is how many parts should I replace; I don't want to open it up for another 24 years if possible!

Do I just buy new clutch discs, or should I replace the spring for each clutch as well? I don't mind spending the extra money if it is the right thing to do. If I should replace the disc, spring, and have the pressure plates resurfaced, I feel like I might as well just buy an entire remanufactured assembly from Messick's since the price will be nearly the same. Thanks in advance for helping out a rookie!

-Joe

 

[RickB]

Replace the dual clutch assembly as a unit. One and done.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Also may add some clutch lessons. Ours is a 1980 model 1900. Farmed a 40 for years. Bush hogged stuff so bad that the tractor wouldn't ride the trees over. Still has original clutch.

 

[RickB]

Also may add some clutch lessons. Ours is a 1980 model 1900. Farmed a 40 for years. Bush hogged stuff so bad that the tractor wouldn't ride the trees over. Still has original clutch.

Good for you. The OP's 1720 could have double or triple the hours your 1900 has.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Good for you. The OP's 1720 could have double or triple the hours your 1900 has.

I doubt it. Pretty much a daily tractor. We are on a commercial farm. It's the smallest of five. The little tractor does the garden, mows 15 acres around the chicken houses, cleaned a lot of new ground with it. Pulled a double disc breaker many a mile. Cut hay and such with the others. Also log, haul dirt, etc...

 

[RickB]

I doubt it. Pretty much a daily tractor. We are on a commercial farm. It's the smallest of five. The little tractor does the garden, mows 15 acres around the chicken houses, cleaned a lot of new ground with it. Pulled a double disc breaker many a mile. Cut hay and such with the others. Also log, haul dirt, etc...

So is there a point to all of this? The 1720 is 24 years old for Pete's sake. It needs a clutch, big deal.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

So is there a point to all of this? The 1720 is 24 years old for Pete's sake. It needs a clutch, big deal.

Bought the 1900 in 1980. Neighbor had a JD 1968 model. Had 1000 cattle. He cut all the hay. Didn't have a trailer. Went two miles and got two bales at a time to féed those cows. No four wheeler. Just tractor for it all. Never had a clutch swap. I did take it down last year because the throw out bearing swarmed, but no clutch discs were replaced.

 

[JC-jetro]

Bought the 1900 in 1980. Neighbor had a JD 1968 model. Had 1000 cattle. He cut all the hay. Didn't have a trailer. Went two miles and got two bales at a time to féed those cows. No four wheeler. Just tractor for it all. Never had a clutch swap. I did take it down last year because the throw out bearing swarmed, but no clutch discs were replaced.

indeed. It is very important how the operator engages the clutch. Ford 1700 has a rubber inspection handhole on the side of clutch housing that one can remove for inspection. Due to shape of the pressure plate you can see the thickness of the clutch disk. My 40 yr old Ford 1700 has the original clutch with at least 90% of original thickness left. I am sure your neighbor did not do loader work and constant clutching and going back and forth, and when he did, he clutched it right. When I mow my field, I clutch just about one time and go around and around for hrs which obviously can't harm the clutch disk.

 

[the old grind]

IMO, best $35 tool for 20-series Ford/NH CUTs if you don't nave it already. Pretty much all you'd need is in there.

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[arto98607]

..............snip................

Do I just buy new clutch discs, or should I replace the spring for each clutch as well? I don't mind spending the extra money if it is the right thing to do. If I should replace the disc, spring, and have the pressure plates resurfaced, I feel like I might as well just buy an entire remanufactured assembly from Messick's since the price will be nearly the same. Thanks in advance for helping out a rookie!

-Joe

Looking at the Ford 1310, 1510 & 1710 shop manual in detail, I would buy re-manufactured double clutch assembly if the prices are even close to similar.

My year 1986 1310 has just over 1000 hours and original clutch - so far so good.

Yes I know it's only about 28 hours per year, wow - since 97 most of it probably running a PTO chipper.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

indeed. It is very important how the operator engages the clutch. Ford 1700 has a rubber inspection handhole on the side of clutch housing that one can remove for inspection. Due to shape of the pressure plate you can see the thickness of the clutch disk. My 40 yr old Ford 1700 has the original clutch with at least 90% of original thickness left. I am sure your neighbor did not do loader work and constant clutching and going back and forth, and when he did, he clutched it right. When I mow my field, I clutch just about one time and go around and around for hrs which obviously can't harm the clutch disk.

Best thing to do with a clutch is stay off of it. Good advice I was told once.

 

[kirkawilson]

When my 'tractor guy' replaced the clutch in my NH 1920 about 9 years ago, he gave me the option of a rebuilt clutch or brand new clutch for $300 more. I paid the extra $300 to hopefully never hafta split the tractor again. The new clutch is still doing fine after 450 hours of use, primarily rotary cutting and discing (knock on wood).

 

[jrushlow76]

Thank you for all of the replies... I ordered the whole unit as suggested. I was leaning that way, but getting other's thoughts definitely pushed me over the edge.

I have the I&T manual as well as the Ford manual from eBay (at least I think it is the real Ford manual). If anyone needs a PDF of it please PM me. Thanks!

 

[jrushlow76]

Since the clutch alignment tool for the 1720 can't seem to be found anywhere, I wanted to describe how I aligned both clutches. I used a standard universal alignment tool (Lisle 55500 or similar) and a friend turned another cone piece from a block of aluminum to center the PTO clutch. I will attach a picture to this post later tonight to maybe help someone else in the future. It was frustrating that I couldn't just buy the FNH special tools.

 

[RickB]

Since the clutch alignment tool for the 1720 can't seem to be found anywhere, I wanted to describe how I aligned both clutches. I used a standard universal alignment tool (Lisle 55500 or similar) and a friend turned another cone piece from a block of aluminum to center the PTO clutch. I will attach a picture to this post later tonight to maybe help someone else in the future. It was frustrating that I couldn't just buy the FNH special tools.

You got off just as well and for a lot less $$ than when the alignment tool was readily available.

 

[DSteiner]

So is there a point to all of this? The 1720 is 24 years old for Pete's sake. It needs a clutch, big deal.

How many hours on the tractors?