Fork attachment build.

[Shield Arc]

you probably only need to extend the flat bar a foot or less from the joint.

That's what I was thinking too.
I don't have a bender that would bend that flat bar with out heat.

 

[Big Barn]

Keep in mind even small gussets will tear up pallets. If that isn't a concern, well then the point is moot.

Terry

 

[dntfxr]

Hahahaa you caught me before I edited my post! I went back and looked at your pics and realized I was thinking of the flat bar being larger and oriented differently. So I deleted my dumb idea lol. But yeah it would take a serious press to make that bend. Your way is much more efficient though!

 

[dntfxr]

Keep in mind even small gussets will tear up pallets. If that isn't a concern, well then the point is moot.

Terry

Yeah probably why no one uses them lol! Mine would probably be termed brush forks I guess... SA's way is much better!

 

[Shield Arc]

Hahahaa you caught me

The more I think about this, I might add two pieces of flat bar to each fork.

 

[dntfxr]

Another way to get it without the bend is just cut some L shapes from plate and stack them together, then put them inside.

 

[4570Man]

Real forklift forks are amazingly strong. The forklift pictured below is rated to lift 7,500 pounds. My Grandpa has a larger forklift rated to lift double that. Using the larger forklift I lifted the back of a Lull weighing 24,000 pounds on the tip of a 48" fork. Ok, I admit the forklift wheelied first, but once I moved the load farther back it lifted the Lull without breaking a sweat. The problem is the forks and mount of that forklift would seriously compromise the lift capacity of a small tractor.

 

[Shield Arc]

If I remember correctly, I think most fork lift load rating is 24" out from the vertical section.
Years ago I got stuck repairing a broken fork for a CAT 966 loader. It broke right in the heel, 8" wide X 4" thick. Used 5/32", 11018 rod, because the fork was made out of T-1 steel.

 

[LD1]

I still dont see how inserting anything in there is going to help, unless you do like someone mentioned and make L shaped pieces and bridge the connection point. Or even cut two L shaped pieces and weld to the outsides. With only 43" forks, there isnt going to be much bending at all up until failure point that will occur at the heel. Adding a piece inside wont do anything to strengthen the heel, thus would still fail with the same amount of weight, and maybe a tad less deflection along the length.

Unless I am not understanding what you plan to do. I envision a piece of barstock 43" long welded inside the tube in the middle vertically? Basically making it look like a pair of 2x2 tubes looking at it from the end?

Like I said, I think they are going to be strong enough as is, but you never did mention what this other tractor is? Adding what you have planned if I am picturing it correctly wont help with strength.

 

[Shield Arc]

LD1 inserting the flat bar has to help some. If nothing else, it's better than a sharp stick in the eye:laughing:. I can't make these welds until I get back around his tractor, to double check the angle of the forks. My forks could not be at 90-degrees. A lot of this will be cut, fit, and tacked, but not welded 100% until I can get back around his tractor.
I can't remember the number of his tractor, but it's around 35-HP.

Did some welding this morning.