Forum for air cooled diesel engines and clones

[KangerooL48]

Thanks for your prompt responce. I have been editing my initial post to correct any errors and add some additional information I had missed.

Down in the South west of Western Australia

Pump is a “Pumps of Australia” unit. Not exactly sure the name plate identification is difficult to read approximately 400 litres a minute.

Yes high pressure fuel pump with integrated stop solenoid .

Pump motor “starts” easily however wont run up to speed without a shot of WD40. Once up to speed it’s fine you can reduce speed to approximately 1/4 throttle no problem and back up to full throttle ok. Unfortunately from low idle just doesn’t want to build up speed?

Can post image when I update post

 

[ponytug]

Thanks for your prompt responce. I have been editing my post to correct any errors and add any information I had missed.

Down in the South west of Western Australia

Pump is a “Pumps of Australia” unit. Not exactly sure the name plate identification is difficult to read approximately 400 litres a minute.
Yes high pressure fuel pump with integrated stop solenoid .

Pump “starts” easily however wont run up to speed without a shot of WD40. Once up to speed it’s fine you can reduce speed to approximately 1/4 throttle no problem and back up to full throttle ok. Unfortunately from low idle just doesn’t want to build up speed?

Can post image when I update post

My bet is on a defective seal around the solenoid to injection pump. I suspect that there's just enough air to prevent building speed due to the inefficacy of the the injection pump with air in the high pressure line, but once the engine is at speed, the fuel velocity is enough to sweep the air through, with minimal impact on the pressure. I think that these Yanmar engines are great motors, but these really have trouble with any amount of air in the diesel.

Pumps of Australia has some nice units; I just wish that the exported them here; I tripped across them when looking for a pump for high pressure fire fighting. I have a slightly more powerful two stage version, but with a gasoline (petrol) engine as there is very little interest here in small diesels (noise, fuel, air quality). If I find an L100, I might swap it in at a future date.

If bleeding the line doesn't solve the issue, I would go ahead and buy a replacement solenoid injection pump. FWIW: I keep spare injection pumps as part of my spares kit, as when I need mine to work, it has to work.

All the best,

Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Checked fuel pump rack engagement with forked lever was correct. Loosened throttle plate to properly check govenor springs position and levers. Seems Ok. Bleed system. Unfortunately still same problem.

Edit to add. Checked service manual one spring not in the position suggested. Although I noted that one lever only had one hole to select and changed other end of the spring onto the middle position on the other lever. Will test again tomorrow as I had sikaflexed some fuel hose into position to hold the various electrical wiring harness securely in position and I had to wait for that to set overnight.

I also noticed when I had fuel pump removed I checked the fuel pump cam follower which seemed ok but noticed slight pitting on the low area on one side of the fuel pump cam. Measured pump shim thickness 0.4 mm.

Will order a new pump and a few other bits and pieces. Any leads regarding a reliable quality supply source? I generally use Temu or Aliexpress however open to other suppliers.

 

[ponytug]

Checked fuel pump rack engagement with forked lever was correct. Loosened throttle plate to properly check govenor springs position and levers. Seems Ok. Bleed system. Unfortunately still same problem.

Edit to add. Checked service manual one spring not in the position suggested. Although I noted that one lever only had one hole to select and changed other end of the spring onto the middle position on the other lever. Will test again tomorrow as I had sikaflexed some fuel hose into position to hold the various electrical wiring harness securely in position and I had to wait for that to set overnight.

I also noticed when I had fuel pump removed I checked the fuel pump cam follower which seemed ok but noticed slight pitting on the low area on one side of the fuel pump cam. Measured pump shim thickness 0.4 mm.

Will order a new pump and a few other bits and pieces. Any leads regarding a reliable quality supply source? I generally use Temu or Aliexpress however open to other suppliers.

I tend to use nylon pull ties (zip ties) to hold things in position; I make too many mistakes for glue.

I would have to go check on the spring position(s). It isn't something I have dealt with in the past. My recollection is that those modulated the governor response.

Here, I order from Amazon/ebay/Yanmar, and I have had occasional low quality parts turn up from the non-Yanmar sources.

Nice set up!

All the best,

Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

“I tend to use nylon pull ties (zip ties) to hold things in position; I make to many mistakes for glue.”

I usually do the same. However there is a drip tray that the motor and pump sit on/in. Didn’t want to drill through this to secure wiring harness. Using the correct sized fuel hose with a cut that allows me to remove harness if/when I need to. In effect a flexible saddle ! Cheers

 

[ponytug]

“I tend to use nylon pull ties (zip ties) to hold things in position; I make to many mistakes for glue.”

I usually do the same. However there is a drip tray that the motor and pump sit on/in. Didn’t want to drill through this to secure wiring harness. Using the correct sized fuel hose with a cut that allows me to remove harness if/when I need to. Cheers

Aaaah. I now understand what you did. Brilliant!

All the best,

Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Do any forum members have a reliable alternative supplier for the injector nozzle gasket and nozzle spacer for these L48’s

Just checking because the local agent quoted $14 for the spacer and $60 for the gasket? Is that a regular price?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Have u tried, L48 injector gaskets in your search engine.??

 

[ponytug]

Do any forum members have a reliable alternative supplier for the injector nozzle gasket and nozzle spacer for these L48’s

Just checking because the local agent quoted $14 for the spacer and $60 for the gasket? Is that a regular price?

I've bought them off eBay in the past. Does Pumps of Australia have a source?

Do you have a Yanmar dealer that could ship it?

Alternatively, they are just copper crush washers, and you might be able to source one locally.

All the best, Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Small town/city. Not much support. Local “Agents” unfortunately carry no stock! These prices are from the John Deere agency.

Also noted $970 for a original Yanmar fuel pump.

I will check out ebay. Might also get some Preparation H cream. Thanks for your prompt responses.

 

[ponytug]

Small town/city. Not much support. Local “Agents” unfortunately carry no stock! These prices are from the John Deere agency.

Also noted $970 for a original Yanmar fuel pump.

I will check out ebay. Might also get some Preparation H cream. Thanks for your prompt responses.

I think if you look up thread, the sizes are there. My recollection is that the diameter is the same, but the thickness varies a bit, with no explanation that I know of, other than tweaks to the compression. E.g. this seller who offers four different thicknesses.
Yanmar washer eBay

I think that the crush washers are 15x7x1.5mm, but I would measure yours. Amazon sells sets of copper washers that might be a low cost route.

I understand being "in the back of beyond". Mail order is a huge help to us here.

All the best,

Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Update on Troubleshooting the starting/running issues with my L48 Yanmar.

Removed the injection pump and dissembled, cleaned and reassembled unfortunately didn’t seem to fix the issue. Borrowed a chinese replacement pump without the stop solenoid and that seems to have fixed the problem. Engine now starts easily and will run up to full speed.

Just spent he last few hours looking for a suitable replacement which has the stop solenoid. Every one I look at seems to have the fuel inlet on the wrong side. While the borrowed pump without the stop solenoid has the fuel inlet on the right similar to the original every aftermarket one with a stop solenoid seems to have the inlet on the left side. Any other members had a similar problem?

 

[ponytug]

Update on Troubleshooting the starting/running issues with my L48 Yanmar.

Removed the injection pump and dissembled, cleaned and reassembled unfortunately didn’t seem to fix the issue. Borrowed a chinese replacement pump without the stop solenoid and that seems to have fixed the problem. Engine now starts easily and will run up to full speed.

Just spent he last few hours looking for a suitable replacement which has the stop solenoid. Every one I look at seems to have the fuel inlet on the wrong side. While the borrowed pump without the stop solenoid has the fuel inlet on the right similar to the original every aftermarket one with a stop solenoid seems to have the inlet on the left side. Any other members had a similar problem?

I would call that progress!

The handedness of the solenoids seems to be defining design feature of the aftermarket solenoids. I've run into that with other L48 engines.

I think it comes down to buying the Yanmar OEM version, or changing the fuel line to the solenoid a bit.

Again, upthread, once I had mine running with a replacement, I carefully unscrewed the solenoid out off the pump (be careful as the actual threads need to be gripped, not the solenoid housing), cleaned the threads, and used a non-hardening diesel thread sealant to put it back together, and magically, the issue went away with the old pump.

N.B. If you do try to repair the solenoid on the old pump, the solenoids are usually constructed in such a way that the outer portion (the shell) of the solenoid housing is not strongly attached to the threaded portion that goes into the pump. So applying torque to the outer shell can shear the solenoid wires inside.

All the best,

Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Thanks ponytug.Still have to complete order for new pump and will try to buy a new solenoid to adapt to the old pump as suggested. Well worth a try considering what the Yanmar OEM pump costs over here.

I have been distracted and busy with another similar project Hatz powered Wacker plate compactor. Similar problem here with both maintenance repair information and parts availability.

 

[ponytug]

Good luck on both projects!

All the best, Peter

 

[KangerooL48]

Image of other project in progress. Alternator fault light. No ~AC output from coil. PITA to remove flywheel. Flange for clutch difficult to remove!

Now just looking up price and availability of coil to suit

Also inquiring if any forum member have experience upgrading how the engine shuts down on a Hatz 1D81S from reducing throttle to an electric solenoid shut down?

 

[goeduck]

I have a Yanmar L60A on a generator that I don't use much anymore. I used to have it in my truck to power corded tools when working around the farm where there was no power. With all of the battery tools I have now, I seldom use the Yanmar gen. Can I run it out of fuel without having to bleed the injectors when I want to use it again? I've bled injectors before, I'm not really worried about it, but it would make sense if they designed these engines to run out of fuel if they put that engine on a generator. Best starting air cooled engine I have ever had. Anyone know?

 

[ponytug]

I have a Yanmar L60A on a generator that I don't use much anymore. I used to have it in my truck to power corded tools when working around the farm where there was no power. With all of the battery tools I have now, I seldom use the Yanmar gen. Can I run it out of fuel without having to bleed the injectors when I want to use it again? I've bled injectors before, I'm not really worried about it, but it would make sense if they designed these engines to run out of fuel if they put that engine on a generator. Best starting air cooled engine I have ever had. Anyone know?

What brand do you have? (Pure curiosity.)

How long are you thinking of mothballing it? If it is a year or two, I might just add extra fuel stabilizer and SeaFoam, and keep the tank full. Personally, I like the air cooled Yanmars engines, but as a group, I think that they have one of the more fastidious injection systems in terms of getting them primed after servicing. I have a 5kW Yanmar clone that I run every year two and it remains a quick starting reliable gen set.

If it were me, I wouldn't run a diesel dry for extended storage, as diesel injection pumps really don't do well running dry. You could certainly drain all of the lines, and the tank. That is what the military does for storage. If you do that, I would plan on priming it with SeaFoam before the first startup. Some versions of the L60 have an oil cap at the top that is intended to be used to add a little oil for startup after an extended shutdown. I've read differing views on what to do for an engine with no oil cap; some recommend pulling the valve cover to add the oil, some omit it entirely, so I can't really advise you.

All the best,

Peter

 

[90cummins]

I have a Yanmar L60A on a generator that I don't use much anymore. I used to have it in my truck to power corded tools when working around the farm where there was no power. With all of the battery tools I have now, I seldom use the Yanmar gen. Can I run it out of fuel without having to bleed the injectors when I want to use it again? I've bled injectors before, I'm not really worried about it, but it would make sense if they designed these engines to run out of fuel if they put that engine on a generator. Best starting air cooled engine I have ever had. Anyone know?

I had an L70 sitting in my dry shop for a few years & the rack (throttle) was stuck in off position fortunately when I went to start it. I removed injection pump freed it up & reassembled with no issues.
To help prevent this in future I replaced fuel then added 8 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil to fuel tank which was about 1 gallon capacity & ran for 10 minutes then shut it down. I would not run it out of fuel. Diesels can typically sit for years & still be fine.
90cummins

 

[careyo63]

Diesel motors can sit longer than a gasoline Eng. and not have as many fuel problems. The Lubricity is much higher so it can sit without much to any problems. Inj. pumps have far less problems than a gas carburetor for instance. Gas evaporates and carbons up much easier than Diesel. There are problems with diesel as to gas also. Esp in the colder climates. Most all Fuel problems are usually limited with the correct measure of Maint. though.