Lots of updates since yall put me on the right paths. And thank you very much.
My tractor is badged-
Foton Europard, model FT254A, Code: TE 254-C161Q2K, 25 HP, Date 9/2005 on the side of the dash. The motor is a Yangdong Y385T 3 cyl Diesel, Date: 12/1999, Engine # Y50700990, Order # -22 China Yangdong Co. Ltd, 4- wheel drive
The American made Loader is a Koyker 140 with the quick detach bucket.
Disclaimer: My Foton 254A seems to be older than most I have seen parts manuals or service manuals for and I am having to wing it using the newer models as a reference so if anyone has an accurate manual or parts manual please advise.
Many of the newer models than mine use the same parts but some parts are different. Don't get me started on the engine oil filter JX0707 that comes in at least 2 different styles but have the same part number. Very little info out there mentioning style 1 or style 3.
It took the knowledgeable Circle G Tractor parts to figure out I needed style 3. Its ID threads were a little different and the face with the holes in it was more convex than style 1. No idea if style 2 even exists or why you wouldn't give a different part number.
Affordable Tractor parts in Texas has also been a very good resource for both information and great parts service. I have now ordered many parts from both and 100% satisfied. Especially for this Unicorn.
This is my first attempt to try and send attachments so bear with me please.
I have several topics to share updates on. I will first try to continue the Clutch thread then maybe repost under other topic threads for the power steering saga. Not great at uploading the images yet.
I ended up having have a Two stage adjustable clutch and not a single stage.
I took the loader off and the mounting R&L towers that bolt up to the side of the transmission.
The left side didn't give any clutch access as its sealed off. It was all done through the access hole on the right after removing the 4 side bolts and 1 underneath.
Used thin metric wrenches to reach in and unlock the nut on right and then turn the square stud to make the adjustment. Counted how many turns, bumped starter and used a ply bar to rotate to the next 2 studs. Mark each as you do it and write it down. If I recall correct, I used numbers 1-3 for the clutch and letters A-C for the PTO adjustment as I indexed it. Had to use a bright head lamp to see the clutch finger gaps as they get closer to the throw-out bearing face. I just used a visual guesstimate to replicate the gap for all three fingers for the clutch then again for the gap to the throw out bearing. I over adjusted the clutch at first and had to back it off because it wouldn't disengage at the end of the clutch pedal stroke. There are a couple helpful U tube videos on adjusting this but not many.
I had someone push the clutch in and out for me so I could see the throw out bearing move back and forth. For clarification it was the pto clutch adjustment that I over adjusted at first causing the pto to stay on even when the clutch was fully depressed. I backed off the adjustments I made and the pto would stop spinning with full depression of the clutch. Im sure a tech would set the clutch and pto way better than I did and know how to get a feeler gauge between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers, but it is now usable. Before I was thinking it needed a full case split and clutch replacement because it would barley move in 1st gear.
The info I have read states that this tractor will need periodic clutch adjustments to stay working.
So, I assume I will only be able to do this a few times before it does require a case split.
Anyone have feedback on that or any part of this please chime in?
The thin wrenches I used for the clutch were 8mm and 16mm, the ones for the PTO adjustment were 13mm and 14mm.
On both, you loosen the lock nut, make your adjustments then retighten the lock nut before you finish up. You don't have to tighten the lock nut each time you advance to the next one but just don't forget to check and recheck them all before you're done. It's easier said than done at times in a very tight space. Get comfy because everything is done in many very short turns and indexing of the clutch housing.
Take some pictures as you go through the adjustment and post them here along with an explanation.
It will help others in the future.
Best of luck and don't be afraid to ask more que
