Four Wheel Drive

[LBrown59]

Same here, almost always in 4wd unless traveling on road.
Branson, Mo. is just either up or down hill.

James K0UA

Wouldn't that depend on which direction you are going? :laughing:

 

[Ken]

While building a dairy barn and allowing the tractor to remain at building site and used by employees for hauling material to work area.With caution to use 2 whl drive on concrete. found out it was driven 2 miles each day for fuel on black top road. easier than a 5 gal. can.
Never taken out of 4whl drive and soon the grinding noise was noticed in front end. didn't tell anyone because it wasn't there tractor. Required a total replacement of gears bearings and seals.
If for no more than information. Just check with parts man at your friendly tractor store and it will be a education on use of 4 whl drive.
I now keep in 2 whl. unless it using the FWL loading material. on soft soil.
The extra effort to shift is money not spent.
ken

 

[westbrooklawn]

At this point I'm the only one who drives my tractor, and 99.9% of the time it is on grass, gravel, or leaves... because of this I pretty much leave it in 4wd. The very few times I take it on pavement, I am sure to put it in 2wd. As long as tires can "slip" I don't believe it will do any damage.

 

[gunnner]

I leave my tractor in 2 wd ----Only put it in 4X4 When needed---Same with my ATV--
Now my CJ 5 jeep is left in 4X4 low ----Runs better that way as it is a 3 speed trans.---& it never goes on pavement ( no tag )>
As for my Toyota Tacoma trucks----They are put in 4X4 as soon as I enter our 1 3/4 gravel road---- ( mostly to save the road --- I maintain it )Taken out when I leave. ( Hubs left locked in---I never go very far )

 

[VitaBene]

My rule always has been to use 4WD to get myself out of trouble, not into it!

 

[gunnner]

I agree with that Vitabene----If 'in ya get stuck while in 4 wd---then ya really stuck

 

[OkieDave]

I leave it in 2WD for a couple of reasons. First, to avoid unnecessary wear, particularly in turns. Second, I have less traction in 2WD (duh, that's the point of 4WD), so I can't get myself into as much trouble. Think about it--if it takes all of your available traction to get into trouble, what do you have left to get yourself out?

 

[TripleR]

I leave it in 2WD for a couple of reasons. First, to avoid unnecessary wear, particularly in turns. Second, I have less traction in 2WD (duh, that's the point of 4WD), so I can't get myself into as much trouble. Think about it--if it takes all of your available traction to get into trouble, what do you have left to get yourself out?

We use the FEL to get us out, if we only went places we knew we wouldn't get hung up, we would just have to leave our tractors in the shed.

 

[wolc123]

You can tell this is mainly a compact tactor forum because so many folks mention that 4wd uses more fuel. That is true only when operating on hard ground. When operating on soft ground, 4wd will save you fuel. This is the main reason you will rarely see a large 2wd tractor performing any tillage operations these days. The days when fuel could be wasted pushing a "dead" axle are long gone. Fuel savings of 20-30% are the norm comparing equal weight/power 4wd to 2wd. The best way to get a feel for how much more fuel is used in 2wd compared to 4wd is to hook a 4wd tractor up to a disc and get out on some tilled up ground. Get yourself a portable GPS and note the engine rpms required to make a given ground speed pulling that disc when 4wd is engaged and disengaged. You will note that a higher gear and lower rpm is required in 4wd (or just less rpms with a hydro). Fuel consumption is directly related to engine rpm, while work done relates only to ground speed. That said, I use 4wd whenever it saves me fuel, which is just about all the time on my mucky bottomland farm. Sometimes, when it gets good and dry in the summer, I do use 2wd for bushhogging, and I always use it on the road. I never worry about getting stuck deeper when in 4wd, and I love getting the spring planting done a lot earlier since getting a 4wd tractor. I am through 6 seasons with it now, and have yet to get it stuck bad enough that I couldnt pull myself out with the loader. I used that "get out of mud free" card a couple times this spring in which we received more rain by a big margin than any other year in recorded history. Since this is mainly a CUT forum and not many are used for tillage, I would recommend to simply let conditions decide whether or not to engage the 4wd: Soft ground, mud, snow, front loader use - 4wd, Dry lawns, pavement - 2wd. I do not think leaving it in 2wd unless you get stuck is a good idea since you will be giving away the momentum that may have carried you thru had you started out in 4wd, and by then, it may be too late for the 4wd to get you out.

 

[RalphVa]

It's dangerous on my property to run without 4wd. In 2wd, I only have 2 wheel, rear brakes, and these get unloaded going downhill.

So, I NEVER EVER take mine out of 4wd unless I got all the way down my driveway. If a short distance, I try to go over onto the grass beside the driveway. Only take it out of 4wd if I'm going almost the entire distance down the driveway. When doing snow on the driveway, it's in 4wd though, of course.

Ralph

 

[lungdoc]

....I would recommend to simply let conditions decide whether or not to engage the 4wd: Soft ground, mud, snow, front loader use - 4wd, Dry lawns, pavement - 2wd. I do not think leaving it in 2wd unless you get stuck is a good idea since you will be giving away the momentum that may have carried you thru had you started out in 4wd, and by then, it may be too late for the 4wd to get you out.

Words of wisdom and fully agree. If anyone doubts picture a slick muddy hill, and what would happen if you wait until you stall in 2WD and then apply 4WD.

 

[ovrszd]

It's been a while since this discussion has come up on this site. Several logical posts so far. Some not so logical. I'm always amused that there are a lot of people that buy 4x4 vehicles with no knowledge of their functionality.

I totally agree with wolc123. He also understands that he's unigue in this discussion. :thumbsup:

But for most of us, who are usually puttering around, different rules apply.

There's a lot of different designs offered in different applications or intended uses. In the CUT world most are strictly gear driven, non synchronized, simply in or out of 4x4. In that design most are geared slightly faster in the front axle. With that said, on solid footing they are rarely not bound up by that differing speed or gearing. So,,,, 99% of the time the front or rear tires are required to slip to relieve that pressure. During that time unnecessary wear is inflicted on the tractor tires or it's powertrain. If you question this theory, engage 4x4 on your tractor, drive it straight forward on solid footing for 100 feet or so, stop the tractor, now try to disengage the 4x4. The resistance you feel in the lever/pedal is the bound up drive system. If you jacked up a tire in that situation it would spin and relieve that pressure. I see nothing good about operating in that situation. So I never engage and leave my 4x4 engaged unless it's needed to complete that particular function. Sometimes it's unavoidable, but never should be the standard in operation.

I'm waiting for the guys who claim their CUT tractor is "special" and it doesn't bind up like that. Especially the Kubota CUT owner. :laughing:

 

[shaley]

Thanks Ovrszd
32 post and finally the mechanics behind the decision "to 4 wheel or not to 4 wheel. It's a matter of mechanics on tractors. The front wheels are driven 5% to 7% faster than the rear in 4WD. This means they must slip. The faster speed is absolutly essential if you are using a loader on a soft slope. The front end will tend to head more downhill with an increasing load in the bucket w/o 4wd. This is why 4wd was developed on tractors. Some European tractors have a more advanced 4wd where by the lead of the front tires increases with the turn angle.
If you are operating on pavement with 3000 lbs of dirt in the bucket you will notice the rubber marks on the concrete.

 

[ovrszd]

Thanks Ovrszd
32 post and finally the mechanics behind the decision "to 4 wheel or not to 4 wheel. It's a matter of mechanics on tractors. The front wheels are driven 5% to 7% faster than the rear in 4WD. This means they must slip. The faster speed is absolutly essential if you are using a loader on a soft slope. The front end will tend to head more downhill with an increasing load in the bucket w/o 4wd. This is why 4wd was developed on tractors. Some European tractors have a more advanced 4wd where by the lead of the front tires increases with the turn angle.
If you are operating on pavement with 3000 lbs of dirt in the bucket you will notice the rubber marks on the concrete.

We'll see if the majority agrees. :confused2:

 

[RoyJackson]

...
There's a lot of different designs offered in different applications or intended uses. In the CUT world most are strictly gear driven, non synchronized, simply in or out of 4x4. In that design most are geared slightly faster in the front axle. With that said, on solid footing they are rarely not bound up by that differing speed or gearing. So,,,, 99% of the time the front or rear tires are required to slip to relieve that pressure. During that time unnecessary wear is inflicted on the tractor tires or it's powertrain. If you question this theory, engage 4x4 on your tractor, drive it straight forward on solid footing for 100 feet or so, stop the tractor, now try to disengage the 4x4. The resistance you feel in the lever/pedal is the bound up drive system. If you jacked up a tire in that situation it would spin and relieve that pressure. I see nothing good about operating in that situation. So I never engage and leave my 4x4 engaged unless it's needed to complete that particular function. Sometimes it's unavoidable, but never should be the standard in operation.

I'm waiting for the guys who claim their CUT tractor is "special" and it doesn't bind up like that. Especially the Kubota CUT owner. :laughing:

About the same here...only as needed.
Also, if your tractor has a loader, lift the front end (axle off the ground) now and then and the front drive wind-up (that "binding" ovrszd describes) will relieve itself. It will be easier to shift out of 4WD.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I use 4 wheel assist only when traversing steep inclines where additional traction is needed.

Actually, this 4 wheel assist is only 2 wheel drive; 1 front tire pulls and 1 rear tire pulls when the 4 wheel assist is engaged.

I guess that technically I could get 3 wheel drive if I locked the rear axle in and had the front wheel assist on.

This is an incorrect analogy. All wheels on engaged axles drive.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

I don't know why anyone would leave their tractor in 4wd unless they needed the additional traction at the time.

Braking.
larry

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks Ovrszd
32 post and finally the mechanics behind the decision "to 4 wheel or not to 4 wheel. It's a matter of mechanics on tractors. The front wheels are driven 5% to 7% faster than the rear in 4WD. This means they must slip. The faster speed is absolutly essential if you are using a loader on a soft slope. The front end will tend to head more downhill with an increasing load in the bucket w/o 4wd. This is why 4wd was developed on tractors. Some European tractors have a more advanced 4wd where by the lead of the front tires increases with the turn angle.
If you are operating on pavement with 3000 lbs of dirt in the bucket you will notice the rubber marks on the concrete.

My Mahindra has almost no front lead. Sure wish it had more for side hilll work. Actually Ive not done a test to see if they lead or trail. I just know that there is a small bind going straight and all it takes to disengage is let off the throttle. Im going to have to check whether it has lead or trail.
larry

 

[Short Game]

I am in the hills. There is only thin topsoil over a sandstone and volcanic tuff base. The choice for me, especially in this very wet year, is when to lock the rear diff. I think of 2WD as out of control and headed (sooner, more likely than later) for some kind of trouble. I have a 12,000# winch on my box scraper, but that's not there to help me when I slide into a bog while mowing. I have the room for a permanent mount 8,000# winch on the front. I think I'm going to do that.

Now, if I were a flat-lander...

 

[dex3361]

I agree that there is more wear on the drive system running in 4wd (FWA, MFWD). I understand the wear cost and there will be some. The real issue for me in running in 4wd while using my CUT and SCUT tractor is safety. I can repair a machine. Operating in hilly or steep areas it needs to be in 4wd for safety. IMHO