From bad to worse

   / From bad to worse
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Lutt
I will look and see. Thanks

muddstopper
Thanks for the tip.

I picked up my ign switch, and seems more broke than I thought and the key will not stay in it. It literally falls out. Sooo I will try to source out a new one. I have time now since I have other issues to work on.
 
   / From bad to worse #12  
I have an old puller I inherited from my dad that has 2 different sized split rings which could be placed behind the steering wheel then the arms of the puller would hook on the ring to pull with. You put tension on the ring then tapped the center bolt to pop the steering wheel loose. Again pre-treating it with penetrating fluid would be wise.
gedore-8028750-1-68-1-steering-wheel-puller-120-mm.jpg
 
   / From bad to worse
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Well I tried the heat-n-hammer approach, to the point of almost melting the darn wheel. So I decided to drill holes in it. Next I got some 5/16" bolts washers and nuts. I got a piece of 1/4" flat steel I had laying around. Drilled and tapped a 3/8" hole in the center, and ground the end of a 3/8" bolt to a point, and threaded it into the steel. Next I drilled a 3/8" hole about 1 1/4" from center of threaded hole, one on each side. Then I run the bolts through the plate and steering wheel, and backed them up with washers and nuts, run up tight to the wheel.

I started cranking the threaded bolt into the steering shaft, and got to the point I thought the wheel was going to warp badly or break, and POP off it came. When I got the wheel off I looked underneath, and realized just how close it was to breaking. But it's off!

Then I got down to pulling the dash off. I knew I had to pull it because the tractor has not been charging for some time, and when I pulled the ignition switch, I saw one wire had burned pretty badly, so I wanted to find out why and repair it. After some doing I got the dash off and opened the wiring harness to reveal the burned wire. It was burned all the way to what I believe is the rectifier or regulator. A flat plate with fins on it.

So I pulled the rectifier, and also pulled the generator. At least that's what I think that is. I have never seen one like this. There are definitely magnets in it, cause when I turn it, it feels like engine compression about every 1/8 turn. I am going to have them both checked out. I had the battery checked before so it is good.

Oh yes, one more thing. The top bolt on the generator broke when I tried to remove it. Good grief. Old stuff is fun to work on.
Once the problem there gets corrected, I will try to figure out the fuel problem, which was the reason I started this job in the first place. Oh well, I have been putting off working on the charging system too long anyway. It's a good running tractor, or it was before the fuel problem, and I want it to be reliable too.

Thanks for the pointers guys, much appreciated.

That split ring puller would have done the trick. I tried to figure out how to rig one of those up but couldn't do it with what I had around here.
 
   / From bad to worse #14  
Why not upgrade to an alternator with built in voltage regulator while you have everything apart?
 
   / From bad to worse
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Why not upgrade to an alternator with built in voltage regulator while you have everything apart?

I am fully open to that idea, never even thought of it honestly. Not sure I know how to change the wiring around. I need to locate a wiring diagram anyway. I replaced the burned wire and got the wires re-wrapped, and tomorrow I will have them tested, and check on the alternator idea. Thanks.
 
   / From bad to worse #16  
Yes' just put in a simple GM 10 SI one wire alternator. You will probably need a smaller pulley to get the alternators speed up.

Chris
 
   / From bad to worse
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Yes' just put in a simple GM 10 SI one wire alternator. You will probably need a smaller pulley to get the alternators speed up.

Chris

But what about the regulator? It has about 5 wires feeding into and out of it? That's where I would get confused. Like I said, I THINK it's a regulator.
 
   / From bad to worse #18  
Post pictures of items in question and wires to & fro.
 
   / From bad to worse #19  
My guess the regulator can go also and just a few wiring modifications will fix it all up.

Chris
 
   / From bad to worse
  • Thread Starter
#20  
OK an update. I took the generator and regulator to the local NAPA, and they sent it off. It came back 2 days later, it was a burned terminal in the connector, that joins the tractors harness. Total cost there, $10!! I drilled out the old broken bolt, and since it would not come out, (don't have easy outs) I tapped it for 1/4-20 and used a bolt I had.

I got my shop manual and with wiring diagram I rewired the ignition switch. The switch isn't quite right, but I can replace it later. I replaced the old gunked up fuel filter, and cleaned the fuel bowl. I bleed the air out of the filter housing. I replaced the regulator to ignition switch wire that was burned bare. I also got a roll of fusible link wire (14ga) since the wire it served was 10ga. After this I replaced the dash, and that took some real doing, but got it. Got the steering wheel back on, charged the battery, and gave it a go. Fired right up and (it seems) it runs better than before, but that's kinda like washing your car, seems to run better as well.

None of my lights work, nor the horn, but now with the manual I should be able to get those going too.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.
 
 
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