I need some help. On my Kubota B2400 the front wheels locked up as I was making a tight turn while mowing. I was able to unlock the wheels by backing up and straightening the wheels. Going forward, the front wheels would lock up after about 5 feet of travel. I managed to get the B2400 back to my garage by backing up. As I was troubleshooting, I noticed I was able to go forward but as soon as I tried to make a turn, the front wheels would lock up. I was able to steer while backing up without the front wheels locking up. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions. Thanks
Frond wheels lock up on B2400 HSD with bi-speed turn 4 wheel drive
- Thread starter tomf
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Fallon
Super Member
Gears are busted of have something jammed, either in the differential or the hubs.
KennyV
Elite Member
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- Kubota L4200 GSTCA
I can not see if your front axle is busted from the picture... but the front pinion gear is bad, and "likely" the crown gear is also.
hawkeye08
Elite Member
it no workie
It is definitely busted. Those two pieces are normally welded together. Would it be OK to get them welded back together or just get a new axle case?
Because I'm ignorant, can you tell me what you see that indicates the pinion gear is bad? Which one is the pinion gear and which is the crown gear? FYI I do have a repair manual and a parts manual.
The bi-speed box basically has to be disassembled to remove it from the bearing holder (not sure if this is the correct name). What should I be looking for to see it that is damaged?
Thanks.
I'm adding a couple of more close-ups.
mpham
Veteran Member
The back lash and free play on those gears are set with feeler gauges and micrometers that measure smaller than human hair. Welding it will never work or last. Better to find a good used axel.
KennyV
Elite Member
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The pinion is the small gear on the right in your original picture, it drives the crown gear in the tube ... the pinion looks all chewed up so I will guess the crown is also...
Like mpham said... I agree look for a salvaged front axle assembly complete... or cover the hole and leave the driveshaft off and you now have a 2 wheel drive tractor.
Like mpham said... I agree look for a salvaged front axle assembly complete... or cover the hole and leave the driveshaft off and you now have a 2 wheel drive tractor.
Fallon
Super Member
Ya. Replace for a long-term fix, but just 2wd it for now if time or cash is short. It's not like you are gonna break you front axle any worse running it without an input shaft.
TMGT
Elite Member
The front axle is cast as a unit, welding would not hold up in this situation.
mrmikey
Elite Member
If there is some kind of reference to look for, a piece sticking out, a hollow that lines up with a another piece I'd weld it up. As was said, the gears are damaged so you can't make them any worse, well you can but that's another matter.
Yes the gears are set with the proper backlash, preload etc when done properly from the factory What have you got to lose other than the time to disassemble, weld and reassemble. The weld doesn't look all that good from day one unless a lot of it has been beat off by moving parts. Just my thoughts.............Mike
Yes the gears are set with the proper backlash, preload etc when done properly from the factory What have you got to lose other than the time to disassemble, weld and reassemble. The weld doesn't look all that good from day one unless a lot of it has been beat off by moving parts. Just my thoughts.............Mike
ritschner
Silver Member
Now I am not that familiar with the B-series, but I am willing to bet the gear box is also one of the main axle mounting points and the axle pivots on the box. My guess is that maybe the pivot seized and when the axle tried to pivot it tore the flange out of the axle. It may be possible to remove the flange from the gear box and weld it back to the axle and reassemble the unit.
I'm finally putting my front axle back together. I'm stuck. How is the stake nut which holds the bi-speed clutch on the pinion shaft torqued? When I try to torque it the shaft rotates. I don't see any good way to hold the shaft.
Back in business with a new front axle. Total cost of parts and miscellaneous items in the neighborhood of $1000. No cost for labor because I did it all. Edit: I guess I should mention that the axle is an upgraded version of the original. Apparently Kubota had problems with the original axle breaking. So, hopefully, this axle will last longer then the 20 years the old one lasted.
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SDT
Veteran Member
The bi-speed clutch torque limit is set with shims. The procedure is in the service manual. Special tools are required to prevent the axle from rotating during the process.
I had a set of fixtures made for my B1750.
FWIW, I like Bi-Speed Turn and wish it was still offered but it is an expensive option, appreciated by few.
SDT
The special tool I used was a pry bar covered in masking tape with which I jammed in the gears. Worked great. My mechanic friend said "There is no way the gears would be damaged while torquing the stake nut. That steel is hard.""
SDT
Veteran Member
Properly setting the Bi-Speed torque limiting clutch with shims requires 450 Lbs./Ft, IIRC. This requires fixtures to prevent the front axles from turning.
We must be talking about two different things. According to my manual (page D6-S 15) , the stake nut on the Spiral Bevel Pinion Shaft requires 21.7 to 25.32 Ft-lbs of torque.
You must be talking about the "Bi·speed Turn Clutch Friction Torque" (page D6-S13). I did not check nor adjust it. I assumed it was fine because the damage was to the axle not the bi-speed turn.
