Need advice. My Yanmar 1500D was leaking gear oil out both ends front axles. I replaced both front knuckle seals. The right front sealed up fine but the left front probably leaks worse than it did before I changed it! Any suggestions?
Front Axles
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Soundguy
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How did the area where the seal rode look? if the shaft was pitted or grooved, you should have sleaved it.... or filled in in some other way.. i.e. brave and turn down.. etc.. or repalce.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Thanks for the reply. The area on the knuckle where the seal rode looked just fine - no noticable wear, etc. I was wondering about something... I noticed that the housing has a little upward and downward play in it because where the pitman arm off the steering attaches to the axle housing it doesn't draw down tight to the shaft between the arm and axle housing. Could this be an issue?
Soundguy
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If there is any up/down play.. the seal wont seal. That's how you can tell a bearing is going.. then the bearing startes to get play.. the wobble takes the seal out..
Soundguy
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mark777
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I had a similar problem and it was the key and keyway were slightly misaligned. It did not allow the nut and shim washers to fully seat and it leaked as bad as the worn seal.
I filed the key burrs and removed one of the three shims upon reassembly and it fit better and sealed completely. It also stiffened the steering, but not too much.
I filed the key burrs and removed one of the three shims upon reassembly and it fit better and sealed completely. It also stiffened the steering, but not too much.
kenmac
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I replaced mine on my 3110D & didn't put any silicone around the seal & mine still leaked. I took it back off & put silicone around the seal & where the seal meets the housing & it stopped leaking.It appeared that mine was leaking between the seal & the shaft but , it wasn't.
kenmac
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Where you tap the seal down into the housing & the seal bottoms out on the housing .That's where I had to apply the silicone . It's the kind you buy at the auto parts that you can put engines together with. just make sure all is clean & dry.
kenmac
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Is a large seal I can't remember the numbers on the seal .I just installed mine today.
FL_Jerry
Silver Member
Does the bearing wobble take out the seal very fast? I have a 2000BD that has a badly leaking left knuckle seal that I was going to replace this weekend. I only have the knuckle seal and don't want to ruin it if I need to do more work later.
Thanks
Jerry
Thanks
Jerry
Soundguy
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In general, If you have a bad bearing..the associated seal won't live long... that's the prime reason you see leaky water pumps a few weeks before your fan flies into your radiator..
Soundguy
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Cord
Veteran Member
Don't forget, these bearings also locate the gears. All you need to do is catch a tooth and then you'll have a broken gear. Some of these front end gears are irreplaceable. Would I put off the repair? Heck no!
FL_Jerry
Silver Member
All I know at this point is that one knuckle seal leaks pretty good. Do they go bad without a bearing problem? How do I tell if I need to do additional repairs besides seeing how long my $30 seal lasts /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Cord
Veteran Member
With mine it was pretty obvious. The bearings fell out of the race when I took the king pin out. Because of the way the knuckles are positioned, it's easy for dirt to get caught and wear on the seal. A new seal may be all that you need. But you won't know until you take it apart.
FYI-some of these bearings can be preloaded. You might just need to snug them up a bit to get rid of any slop. The roll pin was missing from the castle nut that tightened my wheel bearing. With the extra slop it didn't take long for the seal to fail. Depending on how long it would have gone, the damage could have been destroyed gears, galled bearings from the lack of lube to the nut falling off and me actually loosing the wheel! Although these axle look real complex, they're actually not that bad to take apart. Just do one side at a time and lay out the parts in order so reassembly will be easier. I was able to get all the bearings and seals directly from a bearing supplier. I replaced every seal, a couple of speedy sleeves for the wheel seals and a couple bearings for $100.
FYI-some of these bearings can be preloaded. You might just need to snug them up a bit to get rid of any slop. The roll pin was missing from the castle nut that tightened my wheel bearing. With the extra slop it didn't take long for the seal to fail. Depending on how long it would have gone, the damage could have been destroyed gears, galled bearings from the lack of lube to the nut falling off and me actually loosing the wheel! Although these axle look real complex, they're actually not that bad to take apart. Just do one side at a time and lay out the parts in order so reassembly will be easier. I was able to get all the bearings and seals directly from a bearing supplier. I replaced every seal, a couple of speedy sleeves for the wheel seals and a couple bearings for $100.
VT_Hokie
Silver Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was wondering about something... I noticed that the housing has a little upward and downward play in it because where the pitman arm off the steering attaches to the axle housing it doesn't draw down tight to the shaft between the arm and axle housing. Could this be an issue? )</font>
If you have enough play, the lower housing can drop on uneven ground resulting in chipping or breaking gear teeth. My 1500D had some worn teeth from the up and down slop. Fixed it by replacing the old worn washer with two new washers and adding a thicker bolt to steering arm to snug it tight. Seem to do the trick.
If you have enough play, the lower housing can drop on uneven ground resulting in chipping or breaking gear teeth. My 1500D had some worn teeth from the up and down slop. Fixed it by replacing the old worn washer with two new washers and adding a thicker bolt to steering arm to snug it tight. Seem to do the trick.
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