Does anyone use a front blade for moving snow? I am used to using a ft. blade for plowing snow and moving dirt, I think they work really great for those combined usages, but my L3010 doesn't have one, just a front bucket and a rear blade which is a major pain in the neck- really- to use for an extended time. I've seen an aftermarket- non Kubota blade set-up, but it is way too heavily constructed and very cumbersome for my size tractor. I would like to get an OE blade set-up, but my two local dealers seem to be confused on exactly what parts are needed to install one and the cost of doing the same. So, any ideas on obtaining one?
Front blades?
- Thread starter ELMO67
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rf33
Gold Member
Hi ELMO,
I am not real sure about this, but I think that most manufacturers shy away from thr front blade since a loader is not really designed for that kind of force. If you have ever looked at a dozer, they have very substantial straight supports from the blade back to the frame of the dozer, and loaders are generally designed and attached much higher on the tractor. Loaders are meant to lift, not push. The force generated by hitting an obstacle or even just pushing a blade full of dirt would probably not do your loader much good. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I would shy away from the loader mounted blade.
I am not real sure about this, but I think that most manufacturers shy away from thr front blade since a loader is not really designed for that kind of force. If you have ever looked at a dozer, they have very substantial straight supports from the blade back to the frame of the dozer, and loaders are generally designed and attached much higher on the tractor. Loaders are meant to lift, not push. The force generated by hitting an obstacle or even just pushing a blade full of dirt would probably not do your loader much good. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I would shy away from the loader mounted blade.
Elmo; Call Kubota up and ask them what the correct plow blade is for your tractor, then buy it. That will work the best for you. I use an OEM blade on mine every winter and it works fine. I guess when I move to warmer locales, I will have to figure out how to use it for other stuff.
kokopelli2
Gold Member
i think the simplest thing to do if pick up an old snowplow and drop it in the bucket. all you have to do is fab up a lower cradle mount which is nothing more than a peice of angle iron with 2 sets of tabs with holes to pin in the lower frame of the plow. you wont have power angle...but then again you wont have to take your fel off either...and then you can leave your rear blade on too for weight and fwd and reverse plowing!
Thomas
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Hi ELMO.
If you like a couple of ideas on plow attach to fel,maybe the thread on photos..RE
FB Plow to Bucket..on 12/24/01 at 12:24pm might help.
If you like a couple of ideas on plow attach to fel,maybe the thread on photos..RE
FB Plow to Bucket..on 12/24/01 at 12:24pm might help.ns_in_tex
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Elmo,
We don't push snow, here in east Texas very often, but I did adapt my rear mount blade to work on the front loader & still work on the rear if desired. I do not have a picture with it on the tractor, but might spark an idea for you. I remove my bucket, then attach the blade to loader frame, 3 point hitch part located about the rear of where the bucket would be. This puts the blade as close to front wheels as can but still get some swivel or angle.
See picture free standing.
We don't push snow, here in east Texas very often, but I did adapt my rear mount blade to work on the front loader & still work on the rear if desired. I do not have a picture with it on the tractor, but might spark an idea for you. I remove my bucket, then attach the blade to loader frame, 3 point hitch part located about the rear of where the bucket would be. This puts the blade as close to front wheels as can but still get some swivel or angle.
See picture free standing.
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frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
ELMO: i don't know . i use fel bucket and rear blade to remove all my snow, and we get a lot of it. use the bucket for deep snow and the rear blade for small amts. when using the rear blade i have it set to windrow, and just drive over the snow going forward and let the blade scrape it off. course this is only a 100ft drive and it is concrete. but this set up works well for me. don't like the idea of taking the bucket off. too many times duriing the winter i need to litterally MOVE SNOW.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
ELMO
I have a Curtis 6 ½” blade on my <font color=orange>Kubota</font color=orange> B2910. It works great. I have used it since 2000 with no problems.
Here is a link to a thread when I installed it on the tractor.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=photos&Number=22426&page=&view=&sb=&o=&fpart=all&vc=1>Click Here</A>
The pictures are no longer available on TBN. I have attached one to this post.
The Curtis blade is expensive. Finding a used pickup blade and adapting it to your FEL frame may be a cheaper way to go. There are threads on TBN on how different members have mounted one to their FEL bucket. I prefer to make it fit the FEL frame.
I have a Curtis 6 ½” blade on my <font color=orange>Kubota</font color=orange> B2910. It works great. I have used it since 2000 with no problems.
Here is a link to a thread when I installed it on the tractor.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=photos&Number=22426&page=&view=&sb=&o=&fpart=all&vc=1>Click Here</A>
The pictures are no longer available on TBN. I have attached one to this post.
The Curtis blade is expensive. Finding a used pickup blade and adapting it to your FEL frame may be a cheaper way to go. There are threads on TBN on how different members have mounted one to their FEL bucket. I prefer to make it fit the FEL frame.
Hoeman00
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The force generated by hitting an obstacle or even just pushing a blade full of dirt would
probably not do your loader much good. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I would
shy away from the loader mounted blade.
The same thing happens when cutting dirt w/ bucket or digging stumps or hitting rocks or
u get my point.
Don't go real fast w/ blade when surface is unknown.
probably not do your loader much good. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I would
shy away from the loader mounted blade.
The same thing happens when cutting dirt w/ bucket or digging stumps or hitting rocks or
u get my point.
Don't go real fast w/ blade when surface is unknown.
rf33
Gold Member
I guess I see your point Hoeman00, but I still wonder if that might not put alot of stress on the loader. I know that lots of people use their loader to cut down dirt, but that is just pushing a narrow lip through the dirt (sometimes with a toothbar to help) whereas the blade can be pushing a pretty large surface area through the dirt. I guess it must be OK, since lots of people do it, but it just does not seem a good idea to me. I have looked at lots of manufacturers brochures / websites / marketing materials, and have yet to see a blade mounted on a loader. I just assumed that this if they really meant for the loader to do this, they would have promoted this capability more. Just my .02...
Green_in_MI
Silver Member
Deere offers a front blade that attaches to the loader bracket. They even sell it with hydraulic hookups for angling. I have plans to get one but I would never use one to push anything heavier than snow or brush. I would not use it to push gravel or dirt.
Trev
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<font color=blue>I am not real sure about this, but I think that most manufacturers shy away from thr front blade since a loader is not really designed for that kind of force. If you have ever looked at a dozer, they have very substantial straight supports from the blade back to the frame of the dozer, and loaders are generally designed and attached much higher on the tractor.</font color=blue>
This is what my Deere dealer told me also. The real front blade has a nice straight push right into the frame, plus you get the hydralic angling (which I couldn't live without when pushing snow.) I think the blade setup for the Deere was about $1500 for the 74 inch blade.
HTH,
Bob
This is what my Deere dealer told me also. The real front blade has a nice straight push right into the frame, plus you get the hydralic angling (which I couldn't live without when pushing snow.) I think the blade setup for the Deere was about $1500 for the 74 inch blade.
HTH,
Bob
Trev
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<font color=blue>I have a Curtis 6 ½” blade on my Kubota B2910. It works great. I have used it since 2000 with no problems.</font color=blue>
No problems, except that it takes forever to plow when your blade is only 6.5 inches wide? You must be as desperate for seat time as I am! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
No problems, except that it takes forever to plow when your blade is only 6.5 inches wide? You must be as desperate for seat time as I am! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
HayDR
Veteran Member, Approved Advertiser
Curtis is made by Servis-Rhino for Wallace Hwd which is now Richey Equipment. Their private lables are Curtis and Walton.
RICHEY EQUIPMENT CO, INC.
Mr. David Richey
5050 S Davey Crockett Pkwy, Box 687
Morristown, TN 37815
Tel: 423/586-1466
Fax:888/696-7637
RICHEY EQUIPMENT CO, INC.
Mr. David Richey
5050 S Davey Crockett Pkwy, Box 687
Morristown, TN 37815
Tel: 423/586-1466
Fax:888/696-7637
Trev- my thoughts also, I think that any side loads on the loader arms could by quite high, possibly enough to bend them. The only type I would consider would be a frame mount- I have a narrow driveway 1200 ft. long, the Curtis type assy. adds too much extra length. I know that many people make out fine with a rear blade, but as I mentioned, with a lot of seat time it is a major " pain" in the neck. With that said, I'll admit that I have used my rear blade quite a bit, but I still think I get better results using a ft. blade, especially considering the amount of future dirt moving I have to do. The next big project will be covering my driveway with a 1 ft. thick layer of a coarse, 6" minus bank run gravel to- hopefully- eliminate the 1200 ft tank trap that we get in the winter and spring thaw. So- onto Kubota customer relations for some "hopefully" good part numbers and prices, and no " We don't like to talk to the customer" attitudes.
Trev
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Hi Elmo!
<font color=blue>I know that many people make out fine with a rear blade, but as I mentioned, with a lot of seat time it is a major " pain" in the neck. With that said, I'll admit that I have used my rear blade quite a bit, but I still think I get better results using a ft. blade, especially considering the amount of future dirt moving I have to do. The next big project will be covering my driveway with a 1 ft. thick layer of a coarse, 6" minus bank run gravel</font color=blue>
Could you possibly rig up mirrors to help you back up that blade with a minimum of neck pain?
Here's a thought for you ... I love my front blade for snow and for routine pushing of dirt, etc. But I think most people agree that things like your "next big project" might lend themselves to a rear blade, or box blade, etc., more than a front blade. Perhaps I'm wrong..
The biggest problem with a front blade is that while you're trying to cut a level path, the front and rear wheels are going over little bumps. The geometry is such that the front blade digs in deep, you have to raise it a bit to keep forward momentum going, then you lower it back down ... the end result is a series of little hills where you really wanted it to be flat. There's less of this with a rear attached implement because it can free float on the 3pt hitch.
I love my front blade.. but I'm not sure it's the best solution for every job. Just my $5.39 (plus tax) /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
<font color=blue>I know that many people make out fine with a rear blade, but as I mentioned, with a lot of seat time it is a major " pain" in the neck. With that said, I'll admit that I have used my rear blade quite a bit, but I still think I get better results using a ft. blade, especially considering the amount of future dirt moving I have to do. The next big project will be covering my driveway with a 1 ft. thick layer of a coarse, 6" minus bank run gravel</font color=blue>
Could you possibly rig up mirrors to help you back up that blade with a minimum of neck pain?
Here's a thought for you ... I love my front blade for snow and for routine pushing of dirt, etc. But I think most people agree that things like your "next big project" might lend themselves to a rear blade, or box blade, etc., more than a front blade. Perhaps I'm wrong..
The biggest problem with a front blade is that while you're trying to cut a level path, the front and rear wheels are going over little bumps. The geometry is such that the front blade digs in deep, you have to raise it a bit to keep forward momentum going, then you lower it back down ... the end result is a series of little hills where you really wanted it to be flat. There's less of this with a rear attached implement because it can free float on the 3pt hitch.
I love my front blade.. but I'm not sure it's the best solution for every job. Just my $5.39 (plus tax) /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Worksmart
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ELMO - This is how I solved my problem(see attachment). /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif For the price of one of those aftermarket setups, you could maybe buy a decent Cub with a plow!!! This also solves my problem of needing/wanting more than one tractor./w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
Attachments
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Bob
/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif 6 ½” = 6 ½’ sure makes a difference in the amount of snow I can plow. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Now I know why it takes so long to do my 300’ of drive. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif At 6 ½” I will never have to worry about bending the FEL frame. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif 6 ½” = 6 ½’ sure makes a difference in the amount of snow I can plow. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Now I know why it takes so long to do my 300’ of drive. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif At 6 ½” I will never have to worry about bending the FEL frame. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Chuck
30 years ago I had a Cub with the same plow. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif When we had some big snows in the 70’s. I would have given anything to have your BX22 with a plow on the front. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif It would have moved 10 time as much snow when the drifts were over your head. /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
30 years ago I had a Cub with the same plow. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif When we had some big snows in the 70’s. I would have given anything to have your BX22 with a plow on the front. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif It would have moved 10 time as much snow when the drifts were over your head. /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
tractorlet
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Hi Trev:
You can do away with those little dips and constant blade adjustment by having a float position on your lift arm control valve. You can put a float valve on an existing control valve or replace the control valve fairly reasonably to add a three position loader arm control with float. You have your normal back position to lift the blade, forward for down pressure on the blade or all the way forward to the float hold position which has neither up nor down pressure so that the blade floats on the ground and isn't impacted by front or rear position of the tires.
All our FELs come with a 3 spool control valve with float on the lift arms spool. The third control spool drives our front hyd angling dozer blade and other front hyd implements as well as center and rear hyd implements.
You can do away with those little dips and constant blade adjustment by having a float position on your lift arm control valve. You can put a float valve on an existing control valve or replace the control valve fairly reasonably to add a three position loader arm control with float. You have your normal back position to lift the blade, forward for down pressure on the blade or all the way forward to the float hold position which has neither up nor down pressure so that the blade floats on the ground and isn't impacted by front or rear position of the tires.
All our FELs come with a 3 spool control valve with float on the lift arms spool. The third control spool drives our front hyd angling dozer blade and other front hyd implements as well as center and rear hyd implements.
