Front end loaders dangerous

flusher · Dec 6, 2005

And it always pays to scout the area you're working in BEFORE you start moving material in the bucket so you don't get surprised by humps or potholes.

When my driveway was installed last May, the contractor excavated with his box blade and dumped piles of turf/earth all over my place. Had to spend a day smoothing these out so I wouldnt have a tipover while mowing or otherwise moving around my property.

Maybe it's overly cautious, but better safe than sorry. I've seen too many images in the Safety forum and elsewhere of tipped tractors to know that I don't want to get into that fix if I can help it.

jam2004 · Dec 6, 2005

When I remove snow, I use both the FEL and 48" rear blade. Unfortunately, the small blade only weighs about 150 lbs which is far below the recommended weight for a counter-balance on my 2230. I don't have wheel weights or weighted tires. What can I do to add weight to my existing set-up to come closer to the recommendations?

CT_Tree_Guy · Dec 6, 2005

Jam - You covered a few of the options. The main ways to counter the loader forces are A) have a heavy attachment (backhoe, box blade, cement block etc.) on the 3ph (not an option when using your rear blade, unless you weld some big, heavy hunks of steel to the back side of it, which might not be a bad idea come to think of it), B) fill the tires, C) use wheel weights, D) install a backhoe subframe for its added mass (is this applicable to a BX2230?), and maybe see if you can hang something heavy off/between its rear "dogs" that won't interfere with the rear blade (big hunk o' steel?), or E) one of my personal favorites, a big, thick plate of steel (as thick as you want, 1" if you feel like it) under the tractor to act as both skidplate and a nice bunch of ballast way down low, just where it's needed. I happened to get lucky, and the backhoe subframe for my tractor allows for one solid piece to clear everything underneath.

I might add F) - think really hard about whether or not you REALLY NEED a quick-attach. I have it, but it does reduce your loader lift by virtue of its own weight, and it increases the leverage working on the rear of your tractor by moving the bucket several inches farther away from the loader arms.

Filled tires have the added benefit of not putting any additional load on the axles. I've never filled mine, but due to the attachments I have I never had to.

Oh, and I left out (G) - eat at McDonald's three times a day /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Let's be careful out there, keep it low and slow, and as has been mentioned, always be ready to drop that loader FAST.

BTW, here's a good thread: Tractor tipping - How easy?

JerryG · Dec 6, 2005

Jay,
 I don't have wheel weights or weighted tires. 
If you want either one and for the least amount of money there are several threads on do it yourself ballast in tires and also there are pictures in the photo section that shows how the home made rear weights mount. Here are my weight brackets.

44trxfun · Dec 7, 2005

jam2004--People are probably getting sick of this picture, but I had a welding shop add a post to my rear blade last year rear blade post with weights. You can't see it in the picture, but I also have wheel weights. Combined added weight is about 300 lbs. If you have a FEL, you NEED counterbalance weight of some sort, whatever combo meets your needs. You really shouldn't operate the FEL without it. Check the safety posts if you don't believe me... Good luck

PAexcavator · Dec 7, 2005

You are absolutely correct in preaching BALLAST. BALLAST, BALLAST.

I've had a B8200, B7100, B2150, and an L3010. all except the B8200 had FEL. I live in western PA with slopes everywhere. After trying the B7100 without filled tires and then with, the other tractors were either purchased with or had tires filled within first 48hrs of ownership.

The best way I can describe the difference between filled and not filled is the handling without filled tires is flat out vicious and VERY unforgiving. The tractor will tip with little or no warning and your chance of recovering it is nil. If you are just learning to operate one it is a VERY BAD idea.

The filled tires make the machine much more stable both front/rear and side/side. Additional rear ballast is good for front/rear balance but usually doesn't help side/side. The additional stability gives you additional time to respond to novice goofs without ending in disaster.

jmc · Dec 7, 2005

( think really hard about whether or not you REALLY NEED a quick-attach. I have it, ..., and it increases the leverage working on the rear of your tractor by moving the bucket several inches farther away from the loader arms. )

Not really. The increased lever arm length is offset by reduced lifting capacity for a net zero effect. But, if you are loading the raised bucket by filling it using a conveyor belt, for example, it would act as you described it.

John

CT_Tree_Guy · Dec 7, 2005

Hmm, I'm going to have to think about this. Maybe I should have just stuck to saying that they reduce your net lifting capacity, but maybe there's still a leverage effect at work if you're lifting at anything less than your loader's full ability. To lift a given load that is under the maximum, the increased leverage still might work toward lifting the rear more than if you didn't have the QA.

In other words, at loads below the maximum lifting ability of the loader, perhaps the added weight of the QA is irrelevant, but the increased leverage remains a factor.

jam2004 · Dec 7, 2005

Thanks everyone. I'm gonna get that taken care of ASAP. I like the welded work. But I may get wheel weights too.

jam

_RaT_ · Dec 7, 2005

Bucket curl however is dimished very little with a QA and that is where you can really heap the bucket. It is also why I find using my 1000 lb box scraper so useful as a counter weight as opposed to wheel weights. I use the box scraper considerably but it also adds tremendous ballast not only because of its weight but because of where it hangs that weight.