Front snowplow bracket help

[Anonymous Poster]

"Guys I have talked to say that you can make a double out of a single just by drilling, tapping, and putting a fitting on the non-powered end." In theory, yes, however, practice & theory don't meet up here. Usually, a single acting cylinder only has a wiper around the shaft, and no seal, so oil would squirt out rapidly, and not do a whole lot of work in the process.
Snow plow cylinders have a shaft that is usually the diameter of the cylinder bore, so even with a seal at the shaft end, there would be very little piston area for the oil to act on. The shaft is set up this way to enable it to withstand lateral stress.

 

[gbirky]

Franz,
Those are some really good points. Thanks for the info.

 

[mwechtal]

beenthere,
Check out TurboCad. I think the price is more like a few hundred. They used to have several versions, including a 2d version that was free! I don't use it a lot, but I like it.
Mike

 

[rdbrumfield]

Before I driled a hole in a one way cyl, I would take it apart and see that it has a piston with proper strength to take the load pulling the ram back in. If the packing lands or the inside of the cyl aren't designed for it, it will be for nothing.

 

[hazmat]

Time to revive this old thread. Yes it is many months later. I cut the steel, but my buddy never got a chance to weld it up.

One thing that has concerned me with my design is stressing the front of the tractor frame. I did a little homework (thanks Jason & Spencer200) and came up with how New Holland Does it.

Attached is the New Holland Parts Diagram for their plow & frame. Item 40 attaches where the MMM bracket is. Item 41 is the bracket. Item 37 interferes with the loader mounst & will be skipped.

 

[hazmat]

Here is a pic of the MMM bracket. It will be removed for the season.

 

[hazmat]

Here is a sketch of the under tractor bracket. Haven't laid it out yet in CAD. But will soon.

 

[hazmat]

I may have to re-consider my quadrant design. I think I want to be able to take the top part off with a pin, so that it is quick-detach should I want to use the FEL.

I saw an ad in the want advertiser last week for a 3pt snowblower for $500. It was gone when I called that night. As fun as this design exercise has been, my buddy & I are quite busy & I worry about getting it built before the white stuff comes

 

[slowzuki]

Hazmat, I just read through this and heres my opinions:

Just buy a used blade and frame with the angle cylinders and trip stuff. If you can get the lift cylinder too, great.

If you want to attach to the frame:
Make your push plate (the steel that attaches to the vehicle to connect the plow too) don't go over board with the design of it. My dakota has 1/4" angle tabs welded to the engine xmember and a brace to the frame and it has never been damaged.

If you want to save time:
Weld tabs in/on your bucket and connect the tabs on the plow, use a chain to the top of the bucket like a lift arm on a plow does.
This way it will float on the chain and you can use your loader as a lift cylinder and you can bank like mad!

Snowblowers just don't seem to clean down as well as a plow, maybe a cutting edge added would help?

As for skids, I use them for the first plow then they come off. This is plowing a really rough gravel driveway.
Ken

 

[RWB]

Here is my 204C with teh 7 foot plow I added. Wet area is the fluid that came out after I move unit and push plow to the side. What a mess. But almost done and the unit moves the plow like it's not there. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif