Tires Front tires plowing the ground

[sandman2234]

It is probably way too easy to crank that steering wheel harder than it really has to be done, whereas a gradual turn would suffice. I agree with Farmwithjunk on that one and also a light touch on the steering brakes. Btdt, just not a million times. Some of us don't have a zillion hours of operation time under our belts, but with as much free time as I have nowadays, I am rapidly catching up with at least some of you.
David from jax

 

[SPYDERLK]

Interesting theory, but in real live use, a wider setting does in FACT steer with less disturbance of the ground you're riding on. (To a point anyway, the "best width" is directly related to length [wheelbase])

As far as the brake steering, again, an interesting theory you have, but thousands of hours in the hayfields tell me otherwise. a slight tap of the steering brake on the inside wheel will make for a cleaner turn, even on a gradual (read NOT SHARP) turn. BTDT a million times.

I agree with the second entirely altho I dont use them except for sharper turns or to aid front tracking or traction when I note a need.

The first does not fit with my experience with my tri vs 4 wheelers. No scuffing at all from the close set fronts on the tri in any degree of turn if you take it easy in relation to how far they are turned - they can turn about 70degrees. The only scuff comes from the inside back which almost pivots in place. The 4 wheeler fronts always scuff a little in a hard turn and they will only turn about 50.

larry​

 

[zzvyb6]

One thing you might try is to turn sharply on some concrete or asphalt. If the tires are leaving rubber marks on the pavement, then there is a turn geometry problem. Its either the Akermann or a problem with the rear differential. If the rear diff is too tight, then the fronts have extra work to do. This means that the rears must scrub in a fore/aft sense to complete the turn. Another solution would be to blow the front pressures up to see if that makes the tractor tight (won't turn). If this is the case, the rear is the problem. if you reduce the front pressures and it turns better, then the front grip is the problem. The lower pressure may help the grass rutting problem. too. As a last resort, you can make continuous turns on some rough concrete to wear the tread bars down on the front tires. This will present a more friendly tread pattern to the grass.

BTW: Make sure your implement isn't the problem. If the mower impedes the turning of the tractor / mower system, then the front wheels have to do extra work. This means grease the swivels, air up the tires and set the mower up to reduce the caster of the tail wheel(s).

 

[Spiveyman]

...Seriously, do measure the bolt pattern on your Ford, and give the tire/wheel size. I might know of something that will work. You could also run LTtruck tires on it, dispite the fact that I don't like them, they will work, and give you more rubber contact, more air capacity, etc. A heavier duty set might even hold up to that FEL that you really ought to call me about while I still have time to come take it off your hands. (LOL)

I'll measure it (planning to spend tomorrow out there) but I probably won't spend the money to change anything. The tires are great tires, and do give good traction, so even with them tearing up the grass, I'm too tight to spend any money to change them out. I'll try some of this stuff when I get there (toe in/out checks and such). As for the FEL, well, I'd want to keep the teeth, and they would be too hard to take off at this point, so I'll probably just keep the whole thing, but I do appreciate the offer to lighten my load a bit.

I do try to turn gradually. I'm not mowing right now or anything where I'd have to keep a tight turn radius, but I do have some tight spots getting in and out of the barn where I'm tilling the soil on a regular basis. (with the tires that is, not sure if the sarcasm comes across in a post)

 

[sandman2234]

In your tight barn areas, just remember the light touch on your steering brakes, as it should help.
David from jax

I sit here all broken hearted, a loader snatched from my grip, but I understand that you have more time invested in the ore that was mined for those teeth, then any of us could ever hope to compensate you for... so I will go back to my dutiful watch for another to appear on the horizon one day.
David

 

[N80]

It seems like when I use the turning brake, the side that I brake on scuffs the turf, which is what he is trying to avoid. Maybe I'm just not using a light enough touch.

 

[sandman2234]

A light tap on the steering brake will take some of the force off the front tires, but too much of a tap will cause the rear brakes to stop a tire which will cause it to skid the inside tire. It is an acquired art on some tractors, others are fairly easy to deal with. Go out in your neighbors pasture and practice turning (don't want to mess up YOUR field, do you?) Watch the tracks left by the front ones as you slowly press on the brake pedal. It will become second nature after a while.
David from jax

 

[JiminGa]

seems to me the easiest fix would be as someone else said, simply change the fronts to a more automotive type tire, just remember to make sure they can handle the load the fel will put on them.

 

[N80]

Or just slow down a little.

Or just don't worry about it. Seems like my B-I-L's pastures have a good many scuffs in them when they are wet. I don't really think it makes a whole lot of difference in the final sale weight of his calves.

 

[3RRL]

Question for the masses: Is it a bad idea to lift the front end off the ground with the FEL to do something like widen them? I don't have a farm jack (yet), so that would be my only option right now if I was going to mess with the fronts.

Perfectly Ok to do.
Be sure to crack the lugnuts loose first and then block the rears to keep it from rolling accidentally even though the fel is on the ground. It's just another safety precaution required by Murphy. Finally, block up the tractor once it's lifted up so it doesn't crash down on you just in case. Another Murphy's Law thing.

 

[firefighter9208]

Spiveyman,

It appears that you have what is called a F2 front steer tire. When I bought my Kubota I told the dealer that I was eventually going to put on a loader. He suggested a multi-rib or 4 rib tire like these: Titanï½® 2006 Tire catalog or these: Titanï½® 2006 Tire catalog .

They work just as well turning when using a disc, bushhog, etc... , but are much friendlier on the yard and gravel in the driveway. They also have much better flotation when I have the bucket loaded with dirt/gravel.

Chris

 

[Spiveyman]

Just got back from the farm. As usual I got to do very little of what I wanted to do because of something bovine-related.

This time two of the neighbor's bulls had busted into my fields. Guess they thought the horns on my cows were.... uh.... (trying to stay family friendly) let's just say attractive. Either that or they liked the fact that I actually have grass. So I spent lots of time repairing the other line fence. Instead of playing with my tractor.

I did get to experiment with the steering brakes a bit. Sandmand, wish I'd seen your post first, would have practiced in that neighbor's fields. That could pay him back for the grass his bulls ate. Anyway, it does swing that front end around, but I haven't acquired the knack yet for doing it naturally.

I agree, those scuffs aren't horrible out in the fields, there's lots of field compared to the scuffs, but in the areas I drive a lot, around the barn mostly, it's getting really bad (to me).

I didn't have time to fool with the spacing, but I did check out how to do it. Seems pretty easy, the axle has holes, loosen bolts, slide out - right? The rods that actually turn the wheels have the same kind of adjustment. Very cool. One of these days when I get all the fences fixed I might actually get to mess around with that.

Thanks for the pointers Rob on blocking the rears and the belly. I want as much Murphy repelant as possible.

And finally, firefighter, those tires seem much more reasonable, but man I hate to spend money on new tires when these are so new. How long does it take to wear out a set of front tires when you only drive on soft ground, no pavement? I'm guessing a LONG time huh? Maybe I should start taking the tractor to the grocery store - afterall the fuel bill would probably be better than my truck!!

Is there a market for selling the fronts that I have? The guy I bought the tractor from put new rubber all the way around, so I don't even have a clue how much those things cost.

 

[Kendrick]

heheh If you see circles in my field... its not ailens.. its me learning to drive

sounds like a winter project for me Learn the field and how to break turn...

 

[3RRL]

Hey Spiv,
If you're using the fel to dig or something, it's a mess anyway. If you're dragging your super nice boxblade, it'll cover up the ruts, right? What do you do going forward besides that anyway? Do you have a mower yet?

I was thinking does your tractor steer easier and leave less ruts going backwards? I mean the tire ruts from the front wheels ... are they as bad when you back up and turn? Try that and just start driving around in reverse until it gets dry again. As little as you use that thing it wouldn't matter. LOL ... Plus you could keep an eye on your carry all and see when something is going to fall off.
(You know I'm pulling your leg. )

 

[firefighter9208]

Spiveyman,

15 years from now when you wear out the front tires you have you can buy yourself a set of 4 ribs. Honestly I have used my tractor pretty hard in the woods the past four years and my front tires still have the same tread depth as new, but with cuts and abrasions from running over rocks, trees, etc.... I don't expect to wear out my front tires, but wouldn't put it past myself to ruin one and have to buy another.

Chris

 

[sandman2234]

I had already been informed of his new tires prior to this post, so I KNEW he wasn't going to want to change them. I noticed they were the wrong ones for what he was using them for, but figured I would have done the same thing he is doing, which is trying to get some use out of them. I think I would keep an eye out for some used ones, of a better size/tread pattern and if a deal comes along, grab them. You will probably have to buy rims also, so you can get them at a deal, and stash them away until you cut one of the existing tires. Then, instead of being down waiting on the new tire rubber to be harvested at the rubber tree plantation, you can just put on your backup set and be back to work in an hour.
David from jax

 

[Spiveyman]

heheh If you see circles in my field... its not ailens.. its me learning to drive
sounds like a winter project for me Learn the field and how to break turn...

HA! Good one!

If you're using the fel to dig or something, it's a mess anyway. If you're dragging your super nice boxblade, it'll cover up the ruts, right? What do you do going forward besides that anyway? Do you have a mower yet?

I wish I was doing more of that work these days, but sadly I'm not. I do have a rotary cutter, but my automatic grass trimmers are doing a heck-uv-a job on the grass. Moooo. Mostly these days it cattle related work, moving hay, driving T-posts, ripping out bad fences... etc.

I was thinking does your tractor steer easier and leave less ruts going backwards? I mean the tire ruts from the front wheels ... are they as bad when you back up and turn? Try that and just start driving around in reverse until it gets dry again. As little as you use that thing it wouldn't matter. LOL ... Plus you could keep an eye on your carry all and see when something is going to fall off.

I'm starting to feel accepted here... in my family you're not loved if no one'd giving you a hard time. Point in fact, it does turn easier in reverse, and it does not tear up the grass. I started driving everywhere in reverse but got a crick in my neck!

I logged several hours on my tractor yesterday, and never dropped a thing off the carry all! I put lots of stuff in the FEL though.

...I KNEW he wasn't going to want to change them. I noticed they were the wrong ones for what he was using them for, but figured I would have done the same thing he is doing, which is trying to get some use out of them.

For real? Wrong ones huh? That's kind of what I've been looking for in this thread. I mean, if they are just straight up the wrong thing for what I need, I can take it, tell me (which you just did - thanks). It doesn't take long to figure out I'm flying by the seat of my pants and have very few clues about how things should be done. When I got the tractor the tires looked odd to me compared to what I'm used to, but I'm used to a 3910. This is a different beast. I just didn't know what should be on there. I think that's motivation for me to actually do something about it, like try to find a decent deal on a different set.

...instead of being down waiting on the new tire rubber to be harvested at the rubber tree plantation...

LOL How true it is.

 

[RobJ]

I don't believe there is a whole lot of science to this one. When you turn a tractor, or anything, the momentum wants it to go straight. If the tire is leaving marks then it's slipping on the ground slightly. If you are on concrete and it leaves a mark there is still pressure that the tractor wants to go straight. The rear driving wheels are pointing straight the whole time. And on the 3 rib tire the center rib is proud of the outer 2 so a lot of the pressure is in that center rib and it's cutting the ground. My little L with the same tire does the same thing. If I put on the flat turfs it's better. But if I speed up...I put more pressure on the outside of the tire and it'll still cut the ground a little. On mine the outside tire is the one that makes the marks, IMO it's because the outside tire is traveling faster and has more pressure on it to turn the tractor, car, whatever. My guess is there is also more weight being applied to the outside tire.

Slow down, make a bigger turning radius and it'll help some. Changing the tire to a car tire will help. There are also several types of ribbed tires. Look at that center rib on the picture!!

3 ribs are a farm tire designed to be run in plowed soil. But they are cooler looking than a car tire IMO.

You guys into NASCAR should know this, all that rubber on the road from trying to get a 3000# car to turn at 200+ mph. It's gonna leave a mark!! I also read a few sentences about Ackerman. Maybe I didn't read enought but I don't want to set up my tractor to only make left turns better.

 

[sandman2234]

All kidding aside, there is no way I would change out those tires, unless I came across a deal of the century, which is what it would take right now anyway, lol! The controling factor in my opinion isn't the marks your making on the ground, but how it is handling the weight when you load the bucket. I didn't see it posted, but I am sure you probably have jacked the air pressure up in those front tires to at least max air pressure or more, and if you had a wider set, it would probably handled the weight a little better. Would depend on the tire also, but the more air in the donut, the more it will hold. You can move the world with 40 pounds of air pressure, but it takes an awfully big area of it to do so.
David from jax

 

[Spiveyman]

...3 ribs are a farm tire designed to be run in plowed soil. But they are cooler looking than a car tire IMO.

Yep - way cooler! I wouldn't go to a car or truck tire, it'd be a multi rib deal. It still has to look like a tractor!!!

...I also read a few sentences about Ackerman. Maybe I didn't read enought but I don't want to set up my tractor to only make left turns better.

As a die hard NASCAR fan I would feel remis if I didn't mention that two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do. By the way, there are two road courses. There's a time for turning right too.

All kidding aside, there is no way I would change out those tires, unless I came across a deal of the century, which is what it would take right now anyway, lol!

Or the lotto, but I'm not likely to win since I don't play the lotto, guess I'm stuck with looking for a deal.

The controling factor in my opinion isn't the marks your making on the ground, but how it is handling the weight when you load the bucket. I didn't see it posted, but I am sure you probably have jacked the air pressure up in those front tires to at least max air pressure or more, and if you had a wider set, it would probably handled the weight a little better. Would depend on the tire also, but the more air in the donut, the more it will hold. You can move the world with 40 pounds of air pressure, but it takes an awfully big area of it to do so.

I have not changed the pressure in the tires and so far haven't really pushed the FEL capacity. I'm assuming a full scoop of dirt + rocks isn't anywhere near that, nor is a round bale. I probably won't get in that realm of lifting until I get a back hoe and can start taking out trees for a couple of projects. And that day seems farther and farther away....