Front wheel bearings failed L5740

[5030]

Wheel studs press out of the hub (they are splined) with an arbor press. Thats not a big deal. I'm kind of amiss on the 'red' fluid, thats hydraulic fluid and that has no friction modifiers or EP boundary lubricant like GL 5 gear oil does (and to a lesser extent UDT/SUDT), of course I use neither in my Kubby's, I use Chevron All Weather Synthetic THF in the gearboxes. Easier to see, it's orange. Not reall much cheaper though but I've never been concerned with cost of fluids anyway.

 

[SPYDERLK]

3rd bearing cage failure I know of, including my L2550. Seems there was a bearing selection error on the Ls.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Wheel studs press out of the hub (they are splined) with an arbor press. Thats not a big deal. I'm kind of amiss on the 'red' fluid, thats hydraulic fluid and that has no friction modifiers or EP boundary lubricant like GL 5 gear oil does (and to a lesser extent UDT/SUDT), of course I use neither in my Kubby's, I use Chevron All Weather Synthetic THF in the gearboxes. Easier to see, it's orange. Not reall much cheaper though but I've never been concerned with cost of fluids anyway.

So? Are you recommending that I use gear oil instead of hydraulic oil?

 

[MHarryE]

As you have the parts you now know the ring is actually 2 parts, not a true snap ring as it is locked into its groove by the recess in the gear. I ordered a ring too before tearing mine apart as it was snow season and I didn't know I would have parts the next day - I didn't disassemble until new parts were in hand. I had switched to 75W-90 synthetic at my first axle oil change so in my case possible improved lubrication from EP gear oil did not greatly extend bearing life because our failures were pretty close in hours. At times my loader has been used heavy as I moved a lot of large round bales with it before I got my M135GX. I have also moved a lot of dirt around my yard re landscaping. So my tractor has had a lot of heavy front end loader work. Still I figured Kubota would have the front Cale's over designed because everybody seems to post "can you top this" pictures showing what they have accomplished with their tractor. At least they make it quick and easy to change unless it goes to major failure like yours. Loader to lift the front end, jack stands under the axle, and a quick repair. My biggest struggle was reinstalling the tire because by using the loader and jack stands, I limited my ability to drop the axle to the R&D got hightail to line up the studs without lifting the tire. Although it isn't that heavy, it is awkward. I will go back with synthetic gear lube when I change it this week.

 

[KWentling]

3rd bearing cage failure I know of, including my L2550. Seems there was a bearing selection error on the Ls.

Bearings are made with different cage or seperator options, This looks like a place where a brass separator might be a better choice.

Kim

 

[Grateful11]

It is odd that it failed with so few hours. Our L3940 runs one or two 600-700 lbs. round bales 365 days a year, no counterbalance on the 3 pt. just loaded rear R4's. It has 1100 hours on it. I would try to find FAG brand bearings, where I used to work they gave Motion Industries over a $1 mil. of business per year just in bearings alone and the FAG brand had the least failure rate of any brand they used.

 

[ovrszd]

It's never that easy. But, it all came off in a few minutes. One thing is that we will have to remove the old wheel studs and put them in the new shaft/hub. Otherwise, with the right tools, it should not be too hard. But that's why I've asked my brother to do it. He has all the tools in his truck.



I have been researching what oil to go back with. I asked the parts guy at the dealer what oil it needed, and he said either hydraulic oil or gear oil. I told him the oil that was in it was red, and he said that's hydraulic oil. I just went through my owners manual and there is a section on how to change it and it says to look for 'lubricants' in the 'maintenance' section. But I can't find a 'maintenance' section in the manual. This is a pdf version of a manual that I ordered online, and not a hard copy.

Every Kubota manual I've looked at says Kubota UDT or 80-90w gear oil.

I don't think you had a lubricant failure. I think the bearing was inferior.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Every Kubota manual I've looked at says Kubota UDT or 80-90w gear oil.

I don't think you had a lubricant failure. I think the bearing was inferior.

I agree that it was the bearing and not the lubricant. I googled it and this is what I found on Kubota's web site.

FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY
4WD Tractor Applications
KUBOTA Universal Dynamic Tractor (UDT) or Super UDT2 Fluid recommended, or SAE 80W90 (GL-4) Gear Oil

 

[ovrszd]

I agree that it was the bearing and not the lubricant. I googled it and this is what I found on Kubota's web site.

FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY
4WD Tractor Applications
KUBOTA Universal Dynamic Tractor (UDT) or Super UDT2 Fluid recommended, or SAE 80W90 (GL-4) Gear Oil

When I changed the fluids in my M9540 I used SUDT2 because that's what I also was putting in the hydraulics.

Someone on here once posted the specs for UDT versus 80-90w. They had very similar viscosity. I was very much surprised.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Got it all back together last night. Total cost for parts was about $400 including 3 gallons of UDT2 oil. It took my brother (a professional tractor mechanic) about 2 hours to get it all back together.

I'm not sure how long it will last since the gear was in pretty bad shape, and we didn't change it.

A couple things to keep in mind if you ever have to do this....1. The 'collar' is 2 pieces. I thought it was 1 piece that had broken, but it's actually 2. Make sure the parts person orders 2. My guy ordered 1, but luckily I found one more at another dealer about 30 miles in the opposite direction.
2. The 'shims' are of different thickness and the right one to order is based on your tractor serial number. This dealer ordered the wrong one because he never asked me for my serial number. We were able to use the old ones. (There were 2 in one place and one in another place).

This would have taken me at least half a day to put back together with the tools and equipment I have. Luckily my brother's truck is very well equipped and he has experience doing this sort of thing. If I would have had to pay a mechanic to do this, I could see it getting to $1000 pretty easily as I had expected it would.