Frost Free Yard Hydrant leaking down below

[jppa]

Okay, heading off for the hardware store an hour away. The ones closer are already closed. I am hoping if I pick up another plumber's wrench I can get the two parts apart.

For anyone as clueless as me about these things, here's the broken part laid out beside the elbow:




As for inserting the new barb into the plastic, I will need to heat the plastic again you say? The black pipe had a clamp on it tightened with a small bolt that shrinks the diameter of the metal bank around the pipe - this is a worm clamp? And by driver, do you mean something to hammer the end? Sorry, this is a whole new reality for me. I can usually figure things out by looking at them, but I will accept any advice from someone who knows what is going on.

Thanks again to all who have helped.

 

[hhsco]

We've all got to start somewhere! I only know what I'm talking about it because I've had to do it...many times over the years! Hopefully this'll be the last time you have to deal with this one. Replacing that plastic barb with a brass one should really do the trick.

You may not have to heat the plastic, but it really helps. You might could just use a lighter. Makes it easier to push it onto the barb, easier to tighten the worm clamp (which yes is the metal clamp/band), and it will conform to the barb's profile if it is soft.

By driver I mean an impact driver or a drill/screwgun. You don't want to tighten TOO much or it can strip. If you don't have one or the other a screwdriver can do the trick- again it is MUCH easier to get a hex-head bit that fits over the small bolt rather than trying to tighten it with a flathead screwdriver. G'luck.

 

[jppa]

Got the parts:



Is it okay to grease the thread on the brass connector parts, or will this adversely affect the thread tape?

My main concern is that our pole (riser pole is it called?) that the water flows through up to the head is bent slightly. Could this cause any major problems down the road? I considered just buying a whole new hydrant, but I would prefer to keep my Woodford over the brands at the hardware store. I don't know if I am filling the hole until I decide for sure. If the plunger rod ever has to be replaced, the new rod won't be bent into shape to fit properly.

Anyhow, I'll post an update here. Thanks again for the help and replies.

[Edit:] As you can see in the photos, I bought the wrong size barb connector. Back to the store. I had to go back anyways to replace an old plastic part that broke on a sink I was replacing anyways. Maybe finish it tomorrow...

 

[zzvyb6]

You can easily straighten the riser pipe. Or you can replace it with a new standard galvanized pipe, cut to the proper length and threaded on both ends. I also sandblast the top end and paint it a blue color (for water). The other thing I noticed was a missing nipple where the riser pipe drain is located. Looks like yours is 1/4". We usually screw in another hose barb with a short length of hose on it. This is intended to prevent sand and gravel from back flushing into the stopper area and scratching the stopper. This leads to leakage in the future. I suggest you cut off the waterline where the old barb was inserted to get a fresh inside waterline connection. Only do this if the space above permits. Also, sometimes I drive in a support stake along side the hydrant to reinforce it if animals or lawn mowers are operating nearby. Then strap the two together.

 

[jppa]

I found the right size barb - I had the size wrong on both sides, and the brass barb did not have the right barbs for the type of pipe I am connecting to. I was fortunate to find an employee at Lowe's that knew what he was talking about. I ended up with a stainless steel barb to connect to my brass elbow.



I am mainly concerned with getting the hydrant back up, but I do think I will eventually need to replace the rubber plunger at the bottom. Not sure if you can see from this angle, but it looks like it may be worn around half of the plunger. I will deal with that later.



I guess I can leave the hole open on the riser pipe drain and try to get a tiny barb connection to fit in the drainage hole. I am assuming it is threaded by the way you are able to screw a barb into it.

I did purchase a 48" stake and plan on zip typing it to the riser pipe. I will probably have it buried in the ground and not visible above ground, but I think it will provide extra support.

As for the bend, I don't know if I would need special equipment to try to straighten the riser pipe. I think maybe I will keep it bent as long as it works.

Thanks again for the advice. I will hopefully have it together tomorrow but not likely buried. I will let you guys know how it goes.

 

[jppa]

Hello once more,

It's all together with no leaks anywhere. Thanks again all! Take care!

 

[hhsco]

Nice work- do check back in if something else happens- this sort of info could help somebody else down the road.

 

[abco]

I see this is an old thread so I don't know if anyone =will see this but .... I have on of my three frost free hydrants (second in the line but off a "T" from the main line) that shoots out some dirty water when first turned on. I don't hear any water leaking but it is 5 feet down so I may not hear it. My pump is in the well with the expansion tank in an outside well house (well no longer used for my home) so I don't know if runs too often. Is there a possibility that I am simply getting some silt in the stand up pipe and there is not a leak or am I fooling myself. I did notice last winter that it leaked at the spout and plugged it for the entire winter. I don't see to have that problem this year which also confuses me. Although it has been unseasonable warm here until now so the problem may come back in the coming weeks. No that I have babbled on, anyone have any ideas?

 

[fried1765]

I see this is an old thread so I don't know if anyone =will see this but .... I have on of my three frost free hydrants (second in the line but off a "T" from the main line) that shoots out some dirty water when first turned on. I don't hear any water leaking but it is 5 feet down so I may not hear it. My pump is in the well with the expansion tank in an outside well house (well no longer used for my home) so I don't know if runs too often. Is there a possibility that I am simply getting some silt in the stand up pipe and there is not a leak or am I fooling myself. I did notice last winter that it leaked at the spout and plugged it for the entire winter. I don't see to have that problem this year which also confuses me. Although it has been unseasonable warm here until now so the problem may come back in the coming weeks. No that I have babbled on, anyone have any ideas?

The 3 frost free hydrants that I have are made with galvanized pipe.
The pipe will corrode on the inside, down at the shutoff valve. That corrosion/rust is likely the cause of the "dirty water".
My hydrants are 33 years old, and the first one failed about 5 years ago.
I suppose either, or both, of the other two may go at any time.

 

[bcp]

It may be rust, or dirty water could leak into it through the drain, if it doesn't soak away fast enough.

My neighbor had a frost free hydrant with about a yard square thin concrete around it. The ground froze deeper than normal that winter and the expansion broke the PVC pipe on both sides of the T.

Bruce