Oil & Fuel Fuel Pump Timing Help??

[normde2001]

"U can crack the nut on the flare fitting at the injector line."

You accomplish nothing by bleeding the injector lines, just make a big mess. If the pump is properly bled, it will self-prime and force any air out of the lines with fuel.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Mark, since I owe you I'd sure like to help but have no experience in this area.

I'm with you if it was running OK prior to pulling the hyd pump it shouldn't be a fuel/injection problem.

Will be interested in what you find after pulling the front cover off.

 

[greatrandini]

Our experiences have caused us to have different conclusions!
I once could not get my unit to run properly until I did the before mentioned. You are speaking in absolutes! I learned how to do this trick from HOYE's web site. I don't mind being told that I am not correct unless I am!

 

[Normmm]

Could there be a problem with the governor or linkage. I had a problem with an old gas tractor with loss of power that turned out to be a linkage problem caused when I worked on the water pump. How doews the governor work on this tractor and could it cause this problem.

 

[mark777]

Mickey,

I pulled the front cover off this morning and rotated cam and crank gears...marks line up perfectly. The bob-weights for the governor operate fine and everything seems to be in good shape. Also pulled the cam stub for the fuel injection timing and mic'd the lobes...they are all within .020" with no mushroom'ing....SO

I keep a tidy shop and spent the last few days looking for my old reliable diesel compression tester. I think it grew legs (stolen) and walked out as it's something I don't loan out. Now Pop's is bringing his over tomorrow, so I'll be able to do a leak down and compression test in the PM.

With the absence of blow-by I am leaning towards cracked seat or valve...(hopefully). I let you know.

BTW, you don't owe me anything /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

Mark

 

[normde2001]

...whatever you say, Great /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.....have a good'n.

 

[HoyeTractor]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I learned how to do this trick from HOYE's web site )</font>

That is really meant for starting a tractor that has run out of fuel. Once it gets started, it should bleed the air out itself and you should not need to mess with them--- in a perfect world /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181

 

[bruce1966us]

Mark, does the engine run correctly at any given rpm range?

 

[mark777]

Bruce,

It did run fine before and during the white smoke mixture of hydraulic oil, fuel etc. After I installed the new hyd. pump seal the smoke cleared up nearly instantly. It then ran fine for 5-10 minutes under no load circumstances. During the 5-10 minute duration it would suddenly drop from 2350 to 1750 rpm...and cough, sputter and produce un-burnt exhaust (the eye burning kind), and nobody near the tractor. After several attempts to just let the tractor run, on occasion the rpm variation was so drastic it would stall. It would restart immediately and recycle the 5-10 minute thing all over again.

My last test, by dropping the box blade and attempting to bring it up to temp...the power was way off, maybe even as much as half. The blade, once engaged would (did) stall the engine. Nothing has been consistent with the tractor since I reinstalled the hydraulic pump, except the eye burning exhaust and a little hard to start, as it's done that for the last 30hours (2 years) as I seldom use the tractor. It is my tractor and not for sale like my others. It's not the first Yanmar engine I've been into...but the problems and my trouble shooting are way off the mark on this one.

Mark

 

[bruce1966us]

When you have the head off make sure you don't have a bent rod. A little hydro fluid could have got on top of the piston and caused this. I have seen it before. It would blow unburned diesel in that cylinder since the piston would not rise far enough to ignite it.