Full-size electric wood splitter

   / Full-size electric wood splitter #31  
My father has had an electric powered Super Split wood splitter for probably over 20 years now and it works great. I don't recall what HP the motor is but it will run on a good 20amp 110V circuit. It is the fastest wood splitter I have seen and it is quiet and easy to use. You can split any piece of wood you can lift up to the bed. Check out the website at: Super Split log splitters
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter
  • Thread Starter
#32  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Does your genset have a 30-50 amp 220 outlet? If so, you will need 50-100' of 6-8 awg wire to run an electric log splitter. They also tend to cost considerably more than a gas powered splitter. )</font>

Yes, I've got plenty of 220V current to run the splitter. I can't think of any reason why an electric splitter should cost "considerably more" than its' gas counterpart except for supply and demand. Of course this is the build it yourself forum /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #33  
I downloaded this file some time ago - details the whole process. I was intrigued - but haven't got to doing it yet. Still using the maul.
www.green-trust.org/LogSplitter.pdf
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #34  
Probably supply and demand. A quick search of the northern tool catalog shows a 5hp gas motor can be had for 210 and a 3hp electric for 90. The gas motor turns at 3600 rpm and the electric at 3450. The cord and GFI can not be that expensive, so I too am curious why all the electric models are so expensive.

I myself have been looking for a used box-store splitter that the former owner has neglected to the point that it does not work any more. I too would either convert to electric or run off tractor hydraulics. Electric would be convenient enough for me since my wood pile is fairly close to the house.
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #35  
Now there's an idea - electric when at home, and tractor hydraulics when away! A little bit of plumbing and a selecter valve, and we're all set
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #36  
Ed

Since this thread started I've been reviewing my engine, motor, and hydraulic theory. I'm planning for a fire protection water pump connected to a cistern. Hydraulic theory is the same for water or oil. A small gasoline engine will put out up to its rated horsepower. It has very little torque rise. If a gasoline engine is loaded beyond its rated horsepower it will bog down and stall. If an electric motor is overloaded it will continue to put out an increasing amount of horsepower until it reaches its locked rotor torque. This is how Sears can claim its compressors can "develope" 6.5 HP. However, overloading an electric motor for a length of time angers the god of electric motors and he manifests himself in the form of smoke. A continuous duty 5HP motor with a service factor of 1.0 will produce a constant 5HP without overheating. A 5HP motor with a service factor of 1.15 will produce a continuous 5.75 HP without overheating. I located a single phase 5HP 3450 RPM C face motor with a service factor of 1.15. With the barnes 11 GPM two stage pump I can run it up to 2750 PSI without going into the "red". If used with a 3000 PSI 4x24 cylinder with a 2" rod it will yield the following: at 2750 PSI it will yield 34,500 pounds of force. At high flow the cylinder will take 7.4 seconds to cycle forward and 6 seconds to return. At high pressure the cylinder will take 27 seconds to cycle forward. Assuming that the return stroke will always be at high volume the full cycle will take anywhere from 13.4 seconds to 33 seconds, depending on what point the pump kicks in to high pressure. The pumps are factory set at 650 PSI to kick into the high pressure mode. On a 4 inch cylinder 650 PSI yields 8,164 pounds of force.

I noticed that Barnes has a pump, motor, and tank combo that uses the 16 GPM pump with a 5 HP motor. When I checked the specs I found that the motor was a 3 phase very high service factor motor and the pump was set to kick into high pressure mode at 450 PSI. The pumps are adjustable to kick into high pressure mode at from 400 to 800 PSI. 16 GPM at 450 PSI equated to 5 HP. I think you could use a 16 GPM with a 5 HP single phase motor if you set the cross over point at 450 PSI. At 2000 PSI you would be crossing over into the "red'. 2000 PSI in a 4.5 inch cylinder yields 31,800 pounds of force. 450 PSI in a 4.5 inch cylinder yields 7155 pounds of force. In another thread another poster stated that he put a pressure gauge on his 4 inch cylinder wood splitter and didn't more than a 1200 PSI reading. Someone else stated that they didn't get more than a 1500 PSI reading on their 5 inch cylinder. I think the dynamics of wood splitting a such that the pump is well within its limits 99.9% of the time. Occasionally a tough piece of wood is encountered. I think a 16 GPM pump with the cross over point set to 450 PSI would work with a 5 HP motor. The motor would not go into the "red" unless you were pumping at over 2000 PSI. I think a good quality motor would not be "phased" ( pun ) by an occasional 'blip" into the "red". Because these pumps are positive displacement, the valves used for wood splitters are open center. The ones sold by Northern for wood splitters are factory set at 2250 PSI relief. They are adjustable up to2750 PSI. They are spring centered so that you have to physically hold them on the splitting stroke. They automatically return to center when you let them go. If you stand there holding the valve while the pump is overloading for a length of time, you may anger the god of electric motors. You can set the pressure up high and use the valve to control overloading manually. If you are going to lend the splitter to someone that you have no faith in you can always turn the relief pressure down to 2000 PSI.

I compiled the following figures for a 4.5 x 30 x2 cylinder using both an 11 GPM pump and a 16 GPM pump. 11 GPM: high volume out stroke 11.7 seconds, return stoke 9.4 seconds, high pressure stroke 42.8 seconds. 16GPM: high volume out stroke 8.0 seconds, return stroke 6.5 seconds, high pressure stroke 32.2 seconds. 11 GPM pump: between 21.1 seconds and 52.3 seconds for a full cycle. 16 GPM pump: between 14.5 seconds and 38.7 seconds for a full cycle.

Incidentally, it appears that Grainger no longer carries the C face adapters for hydraulic pumps. Vescor has a full line of adapters.

Sorry for the long post. I had all these numbers rattling around in my head and had to let them out.

RonL
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Fantastic post Ron!

I'm with you on the idea of (carefully) stretching the 5hp motor for the 16gpm pump.

My hat's off to you for all of the homework you've done on this. By the way, how do you come to possess this degree of knowledge of hydraulics and motors? Is it part of your formal training or are you self-taught? My background is electronics so I get the motor stuff but I know nothing about hydraulics and need to bone up on the subject for projects like this.

Were the Barnes combos you described some sort of self-contained hydraulic power unit or an engineered parts recommendation/kit?

Thanks again - Ed
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #38  
Ed

The Barnes units were prefabbed factory units.

With a little effort you can find almost anything on the web. The information is out there.

I think I get my engineering streak from my father. He was a self taught engineer who had over 40 patents in his name. He always encouraged me when I would build "projects".

RonL
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter
  • Thread Starter
#39  
I realize that this post complicates the splitter design but I offer it in the continuation of RonL's spirit of trying to stretch the proposed electric 5hp motor as far as possible. It does seem that for a single phase motor, 5hp is a nice common size that doesn't cost too much and will work with a reasonable amount of 220V current - that which can be had from a 30A dryer receptacle or produced by a typical genset. So sticking with it as a benchmark size we observe via RonL's calculations that we end up with a modest and capable design.

Why not model the splitter after the Split-Fire type two way splitter designs to either (1) double the speed of splitting or (2) perhaps even better split the difference (pun intended /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) and perhaps bump up to a slightly larger cylinder resulting in more power an and decent cycle time given the two-way design?

I see that there are TBN members using this type of splitter. What would be helpful is a few close-up shots of the two-way mechanism. The images on the manufacturer's web site are not very detailed (probably for a reason /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif).
 
   / Full-size electric wood splitter #40  
Just remember a hyd cylinder has more pressure extending than retracting - you need to subtract the diameter of the rod on the retraction lbs/sq in.

Some wood splitters have a special thicker rod so the return stroke is faster - as well as being stronger. These splitters especially would not work well converting to bi-directional splitting.

--->Paul
 

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