Oil & Fuel FULL SYNTHETIC 2-cycle engine oil in Stihl MS-261 chainsaw?

[big bubba]

i will go w/the consensus & recommend syn stihl oil w/ethanol free 87 or 91. really, think it's almost more important to use ethanol free fuel than either stilh syn or conventional oil. the ms 261 is a pricey but awesome saw, treat it kindly. have the ms 260 (& ms 460). one of the best

 

[big bubba]

i will go w/the consensus & recommend syn stihl oil w/ethanol free 87 or 91. really, think it's almost more important to use ethanol free fuel than either stilh syn or conventional oil. the ms 261 is a pricey but awesome saw, treat it kindly. have the ms 260 (& ms 460). one of the best

 

[Oldoak]

Enough said. Post deleted by author.

 

[ericm979]

It sure is different operating a 2 stroke now from years ago when there was a cloud of blue smoke.

That's one of the things I like about synthetic oils. The Redline Allsport that I use is the oil Redline recommends for chainsaws.

 

[ArlyA]

Gee, Seems the server is having grief. I couldn't get that post of mine to go. Now its on three times..... Sorry about that.

 

[vsteel]

Funny that some have had better luck with Stihl then Husky, my experience is the other way around. Had one saw (390 farm boss) that wouldn't run worth a darn and couldn't get the dealer to look at it under warranty. Had a good friend that bought a 440 and the oiler wasn't right from the factory. Turn it up all the way and it wouldn't hardly oil, burned up a bar showing the dealer how it wasn't oiling enough and the dealer saying that it was fine (different dealer than mine). Had a hard time getting that one fixed as well. So I got a Husky 372XP and it has been a wonderful saw and never given me any issues. Can't tell you how many log trucks of wood it has cut up into firewood.

I run premium fuel and use Maxima K2 synthetic oil at 50:1 I use it in my Husky 372XP, my Shindaiwa T260 trimmer and my Shindaiwa leaf blower. I have never had an issue with the oil and it never carbons up.

 

[BrokeFarmerJohn]

Funny that some have had better luck with Stihl then Husky, my experience is the other way around. Had one saw (390 farm boss) that wouldn't run worth a darn and couldn't get the dealer to look at it under warranty. Had a good friend that bought a 440 and the oiler wasn't right from the factory. Turn it up all the way and it wouldn't hardly oil, burned up a bar showing the dealer how it wasn't oiling enough and the dealer saying that it was fine (different dealer than mine). Had a hard time getting that one fixed as well. So I got a Husky 372XP and it has been a wonderful saw and never given me any issues. Can't tell you how many log trucks of wood it has cut up into firewood.

I run premium fuel and use Maxima K2 synthetic oil at 50:1 I use it in my Husky 372XP, my Shindaiwa T260 trimmer and my Shindaiwa leaf blower. I have never had an issue with the oil and it never carbons up.

Both are well made saws, I think every husky I have had starts way easier than the Stihls, will my 192 tc is about as easy as it gets but the bigger saws flood incredibly easy, 1 or 2 many pulls with the chock on and it's not starting for another 25 pulls.

I can't really say on the big husky saws, never ran them but wanted to, the ONLY reason I'm running Stihl is because I bought all my saws used and I couldn't find a big husky for a reasonable price.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I've used the Stihl HP Ultra full synthetic oil for years. I think it is cleaner burning, especially noticeable in my blower. I used to mix with 89-octane, but have recently found a station selling 90-octane which is ethanol free.

I use Stihl's synthetic 2-stroke oil in all my my small 2-stroke engines with the exception of my boat motors (which I use the Evinrude/Johnson 2-stroke dyno oil). All of these engines are run with non-oxygenated gasoline as the alcohol content of ethanol-blended fuels washes the lubricant off of the internal engine parts.

 

[TomSeller]

Both are well made saws, I think every husky I have had starts way easier than the Stihls, will my 192 tc is about as easy as it gets but the bigger saws flood incredibly easy, 1 or 2 many pulls with the chock on and it's not starting for another 25 pulls.

I take off the choke after 2 or 3 pulls regardless if it burps or not. Sometimes the burp is hard to distinguish.

 

[xring100]

I have one 2-cycle engine, a Stihl MS-261 chainsaw, the smallest saw in Stihl's professional grade offering.


/QUOTE]

I have been running amsoil full synthetic mix 80:1 for years no problem less smoke. They Claim you can run 100:1 amsoil. My manuals called for 89 octane. Full synthetic oils in most applications are worth it to me. I worked in GM's materials lab testing oils in the early 2000's we saw many benefits. Especially in crankcase oil. Obviously we did not test 2 stroke oils

There's at least one smaller pro saw dont see them often.
MS 241 C-M | Compact & Lightweight Professional Chainsaw | STIHL USA Mobile

The 201cm has $700 list price
Making it more expensive than the ms261 cm @ $559
and nearly expensive as the ms362
MS 21 C-EM Farm & Ranch Saws - Milford, MI | STIHL Dealer

Not sure why stihl list the 201 in the farm and ranch grade

 

[TomSeller]

The MS241 gets high ratings but like you said, you seldom see it anywhere.

 

[ArlyA]

Speaking of the Stihl saws, The only feature I don't like is those 1/4 turn fuel and oil caps.

 

[xring100]

Speaking of the Stihl saws, The only feature I don't like is those 1/4 turn fuel and oil caps.

You mean The ones that dont give you a positive lock versus false lock and dump a tank of oil or fuel randomly after several minutes of use. Yeah that happened twice. I double check my 361 everytime now. My 660 still has the screw in caps and i prefer it

 

[ericm979]

The 1/4 turn caps on my 362C-M have a positive lock. They work well and I prefer them to screw on caps, especially the ones that require a t-wrench to get them tight enough to seal (I'm talking to you Echo).

Now the choke on my new FS240 on the other hand.... it's a knob that's both recessed AND has a spring loaded collar that you have to depress in order to operate it. It's impossible with gloves on. Stihl generally does ergonomics as well or better than their competition but this one's a fail.

 

[ArlyA]

My MS 260 is now a few years old so they may have changed much on them. Nonetheless, those 1/4 turn caps bite and they mounted them flush, so they hold dirt-n-chips, all around them which is difficult to get out. Of course this likes to fall in as one removes a cap. My caps have a "positive" locks as well but you don't know if its "really" in the holding tads or not. This is particularly bad with the oil cap during cool weather operations. I've lost quite a few tanks of oil with this happening.

Do note, I do like this saw. Oh and its choke is nice as well.

The 1/4 turn caps on my 362C-M have a positive lock. They work well and I prefer them to screw on caps, especially the ones that require a t-wrench to get them tight enough to seal (I'm talking to you Echo).

Now the choke on my new FS240 on the other hand.... it's a knob that's both recessed AND has a spring loaded collar that you have to depress in order to operate it. It's impossible with gloves on. Stihl generally does ergonomics as well or better than their competition but this one's a fail.

 

[TomSeller]

The 1/4 turn flippy cap quality seems to vary depending on model and year. Some of mine are better than others. My backpack BR600 blower and old MS026 have the screw style, all other Stihls are flippy. You just have to give them an extra tug to check. Not that I haven't dumped a few tanks myself, but I have done that with the screw style as well.