Could be your feed pump. FUEL FEED PUMP ASSEMBLY: Yanmar Tractor Parts
I can't tell just how much if any fuel coming out but don't be expecting a large volume. Very small plunger in there moving fuel and these things sip diesel.
FX24D Not running
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Could be your feed pump. FUEL FEED PUMP ASSEMBLY: Yanmar Tractor Parts
I can't tell just how much if any fuel coming out but don't be expecting a large volume. Very small plunger in there moving fuel and these things sip diesel.
California
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I found a thread with good pictures and good advice from Winston:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/389239-yanmar-fx24d-help.html
and I see the range shifter on these is the H-gate behind your left knee - I think.
Photo in that 2017 thread.
You guys with these modern tractors! That's not like the elderly stuff I learned on.
Anyhow - with that range shifter at neutral, the center of the H, I don't think the transmission will make much resistance to turning over the engine with the starter even if the clutch is stuck. On the other hand there may still be a sensation of brakes engaged when you push the tractor. At least on my Powershift YM186D, something in the transmission serves as a weak parking brake and reduces the tendency of the tractor to roll when stopped on a slight slope. And that feature may explain the advice to not tow these. But I'm talking here about a model I'm not familiar with, so take my comments as nothing more than something to think about - if that.
CoyPatton
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One other point, if you know you have a dead battery and it is still connected to the battery cables on the tractor while you are jumping from a vehicle, that battery is likely consuming some of the amps from the jumper vehicle. Also each connection point is a potential increase in resistance for the flow of both voltage and amps.
Tempted to take a look at that soon. not sure how that whole system works but so far everything ive taken apart has been pretty dirty inside and out. I cleaned up the injectors yesterday but keeping them out of the head for now.
California,-
Okay, yes the "H" shaped behind my left knee. That one has something to do with the PTO, the knob on it says so. Anyhow yes that one is always been left in the middle, ive tried going through the gears and making sure im back in the middle of the H. Im thinking at this point the starter is not going through the transmission on a stuck clutch, i think it would barely turns if that was the case and you can see that it turn pretty well once the injectors are removed or the decomp is pulled. Thanks for the links though. Its strange that putting everything in neutral and pushing the tractor is easy in Reverse but moving forward feels like something is engaged (like you said) must be something to do with the powershift.
CoyPatton- good point. next time i jump it ill just remove the battery from that equation.
While reading up on the forums last night i realized i almost made a mistake regarding the Loader. My Koyker 155 manual says to "disconnect and properly store" the hydraulic hoses. For now ive directed the hoses on the tractor into a bucket as every time i crank the motor a bit of hydraulic fluid comes out. I was looking into quick connects or just some cheap plumbing caps. But i read that some tractors need the hydraulic system to be a closed loop. Im guessing that i should probably put a nipple and connect the two lines coming from the tractor? is that correct? Also i think ive lost about 2-3 quarts of fluid at this point, should i top that off too? How are these tractors sold, whithout FEL's? do they just have a loop of the two hoses?
Thanks to all, I really appreciate the help youve been giving so far. im confident I (we) will get this figured out.
CoyPatton
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There are multiple ways to plumb the hydraulics for a tractor. Personally, I dislike how mine was done, but it works and to date, I have not redone something that works.
All that to say that without seeing where your supply line comes from to your loader or where the return line connects, it is difficult to say how yours was done.
Now yes the supply line needs to be returned to the reservoir (tank) or you will run your tractor dry eventually. Not something you want to do!
If you have fittings that spin freely on your hoses until tight (name escapes me at the moment for those fittings) then a coupler is fine for short term. If you do not have those fittings, then use a union for the short term.
Long term plan to install quick connects. Put one male and one female on the loader and reverse on the hoses. This way if you remove the loader again then you can quickly close the loop.
With fluid from your hydraulics in a bucket, it is a great time to inspect the condition of your fluid compared to new fluid! Any milkiness, or other issues.
All that to say that without seeing where your supply line comes from to your loader or where the return line connects, it is difficult to say how yours was done.
Now yes the supply line needs to be returned to the reservoir (tank) or you will run your tractor dry eventually. Not something you want to do!
If you have fittings that spin freely on your hoses until tight (name escapes me at the moment for those fittings) then a coupler is fine for short term. If you do not have those fittings, then use a union for the short term.
Long term plan to install quick connects. Put one male and one female on the loader and reverse on the hoses. This way if you remove the loader again then you can quickly close the loop.
With fluid from your hydraulics in a bucket, it is a great time to inspect the condition of your fluid compared to new fluid! Any milkiness, or other issues.
blackd
Platinum Member
If you do not have quick connects (QCs) on your FEL hydraulic lines and you have removed the FEL, then either buy some QCs or install short jumper lines for the FEL controller. You could reconnect the FEL, also. QCs are probably the less expensive and easiest route. If you can find the correct plugs for your FEL controller then you can also install them. You need to find the specs for you FEL controller to see what the style and size of the connectors should be.
Having said all that you MUST close those FEL controller ports. If you do start the tractor it will drain the reservoir, which actually is the transmission, in seconds. Remember while running the hydraulic pressure will be ~2300-2500 PSI. Don't get hit by it.
I built and installed my own FEL on my FX24D and you will probably find the DEF high pressure line connected into the small (high pressure) metal line close to the hydraulic pump. The FEL return may go right back to that same location. The bigger line is the suction/input line to the pump. I connected my FEL by cutting a short section our of the HP line and running the HP lines to compression fittings on the ends of the remaining lines. That way I didn't need to worry about where the other hydraulic functions as they were not disturbed. The FEL was the 1st device in the closed HP system, and the last device, usually the 3 point, fed the reservoir as before.
Having said all that you MUST close those FEL controller ports. If you do start the tractor it will drain the reservoir, which actually is the transmission, in seconds. Remember while running the hydraulic pressure will be ~2300-2500 PSI. Don't get hit by it.
I built and installed my own FEL on my FX24D and you will probably find the DEF high pressure line connected into the small (high pressure) metal line close to the hydraulic pump. The FEL return may go right back to that same location. The bigger line is the suction/input line to the pump. I connected my FEL by cutting a short section our of the HP line and running the HP lines to compression fittings on the ends of the remaining lines. That way I didn't need to worry about where the other hydraulic functions as they were not disturbed. The FEL was the 1st device in the closed HP system, and the last device, usually the 3 point, fed the reservoir as before.
Great advice on the hydraulics. I had a brass plumbing nipple that i thought was going to fit but i dont think the threads mated quite right. So for now its the bucket. I need to figure out a way to connect the two ends, not sure of what size the connections are, i have some pneumatic quick connects that are 1/4 inch and they seem to fit, but not going to use those as i dont think they are close to the same in PSI capacity.
as for the cranking issue. im not sure what to do next. Today i took the dead battery out of the loop and compression checked all three cylinders again, i got just over 300 on two of them and one was 230-240. So that fact alone tells me that there is definitely something different from the other two, and more likely something wrong with all of them. I also pulled the starter off and looked for anything suspicious, photos here:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
I know its engaging and turning the motor, i dont know if its getting enough RPM though. Can i get it tested somewhere? (hard to tell from my videos but it seems like its spinning fast enough (when the injectors are out).
Im still leaning to taking the head off and inspect since compression is vastly different on one cylinder.
I also had an idea on testing the injectors. i flipped the hard lines around so the injectors were pointed to the outside of the motor and cranked the motor. It appears i have one injector that is bad or still dirty. Can i get replacement parts for these injectors or do i but the whole thing. Take a look at the video and you will see the one injector(the one on the left) thats not spraying evenly and drips.
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
i did move it to verify it was the injector and not the pump, the problem followed the injector.
Besides the one injector does the spray on the other two look good? i notice it doesnt have the star pattern ive seen on other injector videos.
Still think that this is moot if i cant get the compression up though right.
What do you guys think i should do next? (still havnt done lash adjustment)
as for the cranking issue. im not sure what to do next. Today i took the dead battery out of the loop and compression checked all three cylinders again, i got just over 300 on two of them and one was 230-240. So that fact alone tells me that there is definitely something different from the other two, and more likely something wrong with all of them. I also pulled the starter off and looked for anything suspicious, photos here:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
I know its engaging and turning the motor, i dont know if its getting enough RPM though. Can i get it tested somewhere? (hard to tell from my videos but it seems like its spinning fast enough (when the injectors are out).
Im still leaning to taking the head off and inspect since compression is vastly different on one cylinder.
I also had an idea on testing the injectors. i flipped the hard lines around so the injectors were pointed to the outside of the motor and cranked the motor. It appears i have one injector that is bad or still dirty. Can i get replacement parts for these injectors or do i but the whole thing. Take a look at the video and you will see the one injector(the one on the left) thats not spraying evenly and drips.
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos
i did move it to verify it was the injector and not the pump, the problem followed the injector.
Besides the one injector does the spray on the other two look good? i notice it doesnt have the star pattern ive seen on other injector videos.
Still think that this is moot if i cant get the compression up though right.
What do you guys think i should do next? (still havnt done lash adjustment)
One thing for sure that #3 injector is not working. Doubt a cylinder will fire with that. Those injectors are set to pop around 2000+psi. They have to be set with testing equipment. I don't know whether your cleaning process effected this or not.
I would put a squirt or two of light oil in the cylinders and check compression again. If you don't have a valve leak by and numbers don't come up your in trouble.
I would put a squirt or two of light oil in the cylinders and check compression again. If you don't have a valve leak by and numbers don't come up your in trouble.
How would i get oil into the cylinder on this? i was thinking that the injector hole sat just outside of the cylinder. just some clean motor oil?
Edit: googled some photos, looks like indirect or direct injection you just put some oil down the injector hole. Ill try that and report back.
CoyPatton
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A lack of oil on the cylinder walls can effect the seal of the rings thus Winston’s suggestion for a couple of drops of oil. You should be able to do that through the injector opening—fuel has to get into the cylinder.
Check the adjustment on your valves (if you haven’t), as this is accessible to you and can be a source of loss of compression. I know Aaron suggested this, and it is worth doing as general maintenance as I believe you said you have the cover off.
If you have a diesel injector/machine shop near you, they should be able to test your injectors and possibly rebuild them.
Also the pump guy on this forum may have suggestions on the injectors.
Injectors are available, most put this in here to be a caution of how much to spend on rebuilding an injector. Since these fire fuel into the cylinder by psi setting, I admit my total lack of knowledge on the inner workings of them.
Check the adjustment on your valves (if you haven’t), as this is accessible to you and can be a source of loss of compression. I know Aaron suggested this, and it is worth doing as general maintenance as I believe you said you have the cover off.
If you have a diesel injector/machine shop near you, they should be able to test your injectors and possibly rebuild them.
Also the pump guy on this forum may have suggestions on the injectors.
Injectors are available, most put this in here to be a caution of how much to spend on rebuilding an injector. Since these fire fuel into the cylinder by psi setting, I admit my total lack of knowledge on the inner workings of them.
