FX24D Not running

[mrrooj]

Time for an update:

I pulled the starter off and took it apart and cleaned up the contacts and all the copper internals, greased up the bearings. bench tested it and seems fine. the signal terminal looks a little loose and ive noticed some flakyness on that signal prong. Looks like the solder joint on it may be cracked but if i push on the connector it does work properly. I will need to address this.

I also put the good battery on the tractor and moved ground wire that connects from the battery to the radiator frame (it didnt look like it had a good connection) i found a screw under the battery tray that was more on the main frame and i wire brushed it and sanded until i saw bare metal.

Not sure what did it, but it is now cranking better than ive seen since starting this thread. I had the compression tool in the bad cylinder and this time got just over 300 (best test yet)

I think im ready to put the fuel injectors back on and cross my fingers that this thing will start. And hopefully get some video of it happening so we can hear the clanking i originally heard.

I also need to tie the hydraulic hoses together on the tractor. Here are the ends on the Loader:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

i believe they are jic 24 connectors but im not sure of the size, so i would need a something to with two males either on a nipple or a short piece of hose with those connectors, any suggestions? (the hose itself says 3/8ths)

I may just run to a hose shop to see if they can make something up.

 

[winston1]

I believe if you measure the metal part at the end of the hose you can confirm hose size. Likely 3/8" if that is what printed on the hose.

 

[blackd]

Good progress. Don't you need 2 hoses? If I understand your need you are trying to disconnect the FEL. If so you need a hose to go between the lines up/down function and another for the tip function, the 4 connectors shown in your pic. The disconnected connector shown in your pic should be either input/ouput/or power beyond.

 

[CoyPatton]

Good progress. Don't you need 2 hoses? If I understand your need you are trying to disconnect the FEL. If so you need a hose to go between the lines up/down function and another for the tip function, the 4 connectors shown in your pic. The disconnected connector shown in your pic should be either input/ouput/or power beyond.

I believe he has the loader off. I also believe he has 2 hoses from the tractor to the to the loader valve. A supply hose and a return line. They need to be connected to one another to allow his fluid to continue onward to the 3PH and reservoir.
I suggest taking fittings out of your loader valve or taking your loader valve with you and getting 2 sets of quick connects. The fittings or the valve itself will allow you to get the correct threads. With one male and one female on the 2 lines they will connect to complete your pressure loop on the tractor. You will need to secure them up to be out of the way for tractor operation (and as a trip hazard). Then use the other set on the loader valves to be able to connect the lines to the loader. If your setup is like mine you need female threads for your lines and male threads for your valve.
When do hydraulics, pipe dope thread sealant is usually a better choice that teflon tape. A little goes a long way

 

[blackd]

Coy, as I remember he was losing hydraulic fluid every time he turned the tractor over. Also, " I also believe he has 2 hoses from the tractor to the to the loader valve.", that's for each FEL function, lift and curl, so I was thinking he needs a hose for each function. Two hoses.

What you are suggesting removes the loader valve from the hydraulic circuit. That approach means he can not use the valve for any other function until he hooks it up using your QCs to re-attach to the hydraulic circuit. My approach was to allow him to continue troubleshooting without losing more fluid.

If it were me I would put QCs on the loader spools and the lines, and then if the FEL was off the loader valve could still be used for added functions. My MF is so plumbed so that in Winter with the FEL off I can use a 2 function, raise lower and turn, snow plow.

I hope all of our suggestions have been helpful to mrrooj.

 

[winston1]

Coy, as I remember he was losing hydraulic fluid every time he turned the tractor over. Also, " I also believe he has 2 hoses from the tractor to the to the loader valve.", that's for each FEL function, lift and curl, so I was thinking he needs a hose for each function. Two hoses.

What you are suggesting removes the loader valve from the hydraulic circuit. That approach means he can not use the valve for any other function until he hooks it up using your QCs to re-attach to the hydraulic circuit. My approach was to allow him to continue troubleshooting without losing more fluid.

If it were me I would put QCs on the loader spools and the lines, and then if the FEL was off the loader valve could still be used for added functions. My MF is so plumbed so that in Winter with the FEL off I can use a 2 function, raise lower and turn, snow plow.

I hope all of our suggestions have been helpful to mrrooj.

I agree with your thinking. Also, if you leave the loader valve on the tractor with no quick disconnects on the inlet and outlet you do away with the possibility of a deadhead. Using quick disconnects on the inlet and outlet is risky because if one gets snagged loose or something you risk damaging your pump. Do it like this.

To ease your minds the hose with the clamp is just a tank return, it sees no pressure. There is a power beyond hose not shown going back to the 3 point.

 

[CoyPatton]

Coy, as I remember he was losing hydraulic fluid every time he turned the tractor over. Also, " I also believe he has 2 hoses from the tractor to the to the loader valve.", that's for each FEL function, lift and curl, so I was thinking he needs a hose for each function. Two hoses.

What you are suggesting removes the loader valve from the hydraulic circuit. That approach means he can not use the valve for any other function until he hooks it up using your QCs to re-attach to the hydraulic circuit. My approach was to allow him to continue troubleshooting without losing more fluid.

If it were me I would put QCs on the loader spools and the lines, and then if the FEL was off the loader valve could still be used for added functions. My MF is so plumbed so that in Winter with the FEL off I can use a 2 function, raise lower and turn, snow plow.

I hope all of our suggestions have been helpful to mrrooj.

As I remember yes he was losing fluid into a bucket when cranking the tractor. But I if I remember it correctly it was from the supply (pressure) line to the loader. That needs to return to the tractor. At present without doing so he runs the risk of dropping his fluid level below his suction screen and sucking air to the pump.
Yes hydraulic hoses should always be routed or placed in a way to prevent there being caught and jerked off. Even the tank lines as you again risk loss of fluid if compromised. For the OP with the tractor not running trip hazard may be a large concern short term, long term they need to be secured in a manner to prevent be hung by anything one could imagine.

 

[mrrooj]

Here is a photo from my hydraulic pump:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Those two lines circled go to the loader, assuming the hard line is the high pressure from the pump and the other is the return. I pulled the return off so i could take it to get it fitted. From what i understand i just need to put the two hoses left over from the Loader, together to complete the loop otherwise ill pump out all my fluid. I tried some standard NPT nipples but they dont fit, so probably going to go to a hose shop and have them take a look. On the Loader i just need to cap them off for now. Quick connects would be the easiest solution for both sides.

I was under the impression that we all had the same setup for hydraulics but i guess they can be plumbed in a variety of ways. seems strange to me to have the pump on one side but the loader controls on the opposite with hoses just kinda hanging free below.But what do i know :confused3:

 

[CoyPatton]

Here is a photo from my hydraulic pump:
Shared album - Eric Rujiraviriyapinyo - Google Photos

Those two lines circled go to the loader, assuming the hard line is the high pressure from the pump and the other is the return. I pulled the return off so i could take it to get it fitted. From what i understand i just need to put the two hoses left over from the Loader, together to complete the loop otherwise ill pump out all my fluid. I tried some standard NPT nipples but they dont fit, so probably going to go to a hose shop and have them take a look. On the Loader i just need to cap them off for now. Quick connects would be the easiest solution for both sides.

I was under the impression that we all had the same setup for hydraulics but i guess they can be plumbed in a variety of ways. seems strange to me to have the pump on one side but the loader controls on the opposite with hoses just kinda hanging free below.But what do i know :confused3:

With a Yanmar tractor tractor fittings will almost never be NPT threads. Not sure where your loader may have been made, but it seems rare that loaders (at least for import tractors) have NOT threads also. JIC seems more common (at least for what I have encountered). One of the reasons I suggested earlier ti take a fitting, the valve or if simpler for you a hose works. I have seen hydraulic hoses and lines ran all kinds of ways, many that I find poorly done—as I am sure anyone that has worked around equipment has as well.
Looking at your photo, personally I do not like the bare hoses running through the metal without a protective sleeve. A protective sleeve can be as simple as a piece of old radiator hose cut to length and split lengthwise and placed over the hoses for prevention of rubbing. A simple way to hold the up is a zip tie looped in a zip tie around the hose and then use it to hang the hose out of the way. I have also ran them through plastic pipes, I like to cushion the ends of the pipe with split lengths of heater hose on the end of the pipe attached with RTV silicone.

 

[mrrooj]

I agree with your thinking. Also, if you leave the loader valve on the tractor with no quick disconnects on the inlet and outlet you do away with the possibility of a deadhead. Using quick disconnects on the inlet and outlet is risky because if one gets snagged loose or something you risk damaging your pump. Do it like this.

To ease your minds the hose with the clamp is just a tank return, it sees no pressure. There is a power beyond hose not shown going back to the 3 point.

Im looking forward to the day when i can worry about this stuff. at this point i just need to close the loop. Question though: it looks like you are leaving the loader controls on the tractor, which i thought was part of the loader itself. I wanted to loader off just to be able to work around the engine. So are you just taking the bucket off then and leaving the arms on? I have the koyker 150 by the way http://www.koykermfg.com/images/koyker-manuals/665376 155 090913.pdf