Garden fence build

   / Garden fence build #11  
If I were to connect the panels to the posts, what kind of fastener would I use?
I bought a sack of little mending plates, IE the thin metal strip of zinc plated or galavanized (better) with 2 or 4 holes in them already. Put over any section of wire in the cattle panel, and 1-1/2" deck screws to fasten.
 
   / Garden fence build #12  
Here's how I did my own 24x32 garden:
How did you attach the mesh to the welded panels? Zipties seem to last about 1.5 years in the sun around me. I might use hog rings, Ive used those on gabion walls, but seemed kinda overkill for attaching the mesh.
 
   / Garden fence build #14  
Assuming that this is to keep deer out, my only advice is to consider a much lesser fence around a much larger area of the property. $2500 gets a lot of fencing materials, with 5' of 2x4 horse fence on the bottom, a couple strands of barbed or barbless wire on top you can keep deer out and much farther away from the garden and without the garden being right on the other side of the fence from them they're even less likely to try the fence. Then you can have more future flexibility in your more intensely planted space.

I like the looks of what you've got in mind but my experience is that at some point you may want more garden space, and then you're doing that again or just pushing the deer farther out once and for all.

In our gardens I occasionally throw some 4' wire (usually 2x4) around a couple beds here or there because the chickens decided to get into them, but our gardens are otherwise just open to the surrounding yard. It's a nice feeling not being enclosed IMO though our neighbors aren't particularly close so we're not looking for a feeling of privacy.
 
   / Garden fence build
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Assuming that this is to keep deer out, my only advice is to consider a much lesser fence around a much larger area of the property. $2500 gets a lot of fencing materials, with 5' of 2x4 horse fence on the bottom, a couple strands of barbed or barbless wire on top you can keep deer out and much farther away from the garden and without the garden being right on the other side of the fence from them they're even less likely to try the fence. Then you can have more future flexibility in your more intensely planted space.

I like the looks of what you've got in mind but my experience is that at some point you may want more garden space, and then you're doing that again or just pushing the deer farther out once and for all.

In our gardens I occasionally throw some 4' wire (usually 2x4) around a couple beds here or there because the chickens decided to get into them, but our gardens are otherwise just open to the surrounding yard. It's a nice feeling not being enclosed IMO though our neighbors aren't particularly close so we're not looking for a feeling of privacy.

I appreciate you challenging the approach from this perspective. You are right that this is mostly to keep deer (and rabbits, etc) out. No need to impress or look good for neighbors, just our own enjoyment. I also agree that we'll likely want more space in the future, but I don't think we could get it by making this area larger.

First off, we already have multiple garden areas. You can see in the photos below that there's the current garden (chicken wire and t-posts on the left), and a fruit garden on the right with t-posts and 2x4 welded wire around it. We're planning to grow garlic in cattle waterer tubs outside the fenced garden once it's complete, and also have a cedar planter with herbs right off the back stoop of the house.

IMG_5569.JPG IMG_5568.JPG IMG_5567.JPG

Secondly, we're constrained by trees and topography. We have plenty of land -- 20+ acres -- but only so much flat land close to the house. The pink flagging tape in the photo represents the outline of the planned fence build. We'll be putting an 8x10 greenhouse just to the right of that, so the only area to expand into would be farther back, which will entail quite a bit more clearing work. We have talked about putting fruit/nut trees back that way (sadly the pecan trees we planted got eaten) so maybe that project is sooner on the calendar than I'm currently thinking.

Our land is also terraced with mature trees, so that's a fun part to work around. Can't really smooth out the terracing without getting into the roots, and we want to keep many of the trees.

This has been good though to think about how the structure of the fence will fit in with everything else that's there. Wonder if it will feel too busy/enclosed...going to have to go stare at it for a while :)
 
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   / Garden fence build #16  
Paint the livestock panels black or dark green, then you will feel less enclosed.

Bruce
 
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   / Garden fence build
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Also gotta remember the wet lumber is going to dry out significantly, so all the care you put into tight corners of picture framing panel detail maybe for naught in a few months. If im doing a big job for a customer I’ll get all the lumber on site. Put the posts inthe ground and then, if time allows, come back in a few weeks and hang the rest. If its just a cedar picket fence I dont bother waiting, but i almost always try to wait a few weeks before hanging a custom wooden gate.

Yeah I learned about the shrinkage with my chicken run build.

Curious to get your input -- I had thought it'd be better to get the rails and the trellis attached to the posts as soon as possible to help minimize any warping/twisting of the posts or of the rails themselves. While the boards may shrink, the overall structure should keep them straight-ish.

Is that a flawed assumption? Better to wait and let the boards dry out more and just work with minor warping/cupping?
 
   / Garden fence build #18  
We have plenty of land -- 20+ acres -- but only so much flat land close to the house.
That’s a nice spot you got there. I hear ya about space, but none of its flat!!

You will find that even though a board can shrink upwards of 10% -15% width wise as it shrinks, the length is significantly less percentage, but over an 8’ span it’s definitely noticeable. Ive seen a few rails rip off posts(screws break, nails bend) because of shrinking but more so just aesthetically fit and finish isn't tight. When i build decks, that someone pays alot of $$ for, i want every joint tight for a long time. Fences are usually scrutinized less. Comes down to owners expectations.
 
   / Garden fence build #19  
My garden is 90x90 and it's too small for my wife and I. I have 24 raised beds that are 4ft wide and 16 feet long. I've bought several dump truck loads of good quality garden dirt for the beds. Our goal is to have enough to last a year, and then some. So far, we tend to run out at about ten months. I'll add another 8 beds and see if that is enough, but in all reality, I think that I'll need to double the size of the garden to have what we need for a full year.

If you are just starting out with vegetable gardens, consider how you will make the area bigger.

My fence is 2x4 horse fence. Each opening is 2inches by 4 inches. Rabbits go right through it. This past Spring, there where four that where tormenting us and my dogs. The garden is inside the dog yard, so they have to go through their area to get to the garden area. Eventually they all disappeared, but it did take longer then expected. Small rabbits are very fast, big Akita's are not as fast!!!!

6x6 posts will look the nicest, but they are the most expensive posts you can buy except Western Cedar. Round Posts are the most cost effective.

Once the wood has been out in the elements for a little while, the nails will start loosening up. I never use nails on anything that is exposed to the elements. I rarely use nails inside a house too.

Coated deck screws are my favorite. You can get them in a large variety of lengths, and they are super easy to remove if you mess up, or change your mind on something. Even if it's ten years later!!!!
 
   / Garden fence build #20  
Ning brought up the point that I keep running into. I've just used a simple electric fence to keep the deer out. No matter where I think it is in the right place, it always seems to end up in the way. At least it's fairly easy to pull up, but never fun to drive the T posts again in the next spot.
 

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