Gauge wheels or tail wheel?

   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #41  
Good job, the final product looks like it turned out really nice! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

After you get some good hours of use you'll have to report back to let us know how you like it.
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #42  
I like the simplicity in the way you stow the wheels up and away. Something I may have to try if I go ahead and do this to my rear blade. Over-all, a very good job. Let us know how it works.

Joe
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel?
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Work?!? But....but I might get it dirty! Or, worse yet, scratch the paint! Horrors!

Just kiddin'.

It doesn't quite work the way that I had hoped, at least not on a packed road or on the church parking lot, but it's not really a design fault as much as my own expectations, I guess.

On hard packed surfaces the wheels don't touch the ground if you want to cut much at all; instead the unit kind of "teeter-totters" with the blade being the fulcrum. If you lower the 3PH enough to put a lot of pressure (weight) on the blade then that lifts the wheels off the ground. If you then lower the wheels in this new position then the weight comes off the blade and it doesn't cut, it just changes the orientation of the cutting edge in relationship to the road.

In the church parking lot the kids have spun out enough to leave ruts in the center of the hard packed lot, but there is a lot of loose gravel around the periphery. The gauge wheels sink enough into the soft gravel to where you start moving a LOT of material, which is good in one way, but it leaves fairly big ridges on either side of the blade. It works, but it's pretty time consuming because eventually you have to end up with an even layer of gravel everywhere. Running the blade backwards (tractor still going forwards but the blade rotated 180) helps for the final passes.

Around buildings the wheels are a mixed blessing: it's usually already pretty flat so you don't have to do much and you can get it even flatter, but I was only able to pull material away from the buildings and that's not always what's needed. With the garage door open I could start partway inside the garage, but didn't want to hit the Lamborghini, so I could only go in so far without risking damage to my new blade, or incidentally to the Lambo.

On my gravel drive it only has a pretty thin top layer of salt and pepper round gravel, but isn't extremely flat. Here I did more damage than good as it would scalp the high spots and make the lows too deep and soft. We're talking a matter of an inch or two, not big ruts or noticeable hills and valleys. I suppose I could go ahead and flatten the whole drive and turnaround and then get a new top layer someday.

I really built it to use as a snow "plow" and I think it will work fine for that but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. The weather is warming so I think it will be quite some time before I get to test it out on snow.

All that said the design itself works quite well for what it does: the wheels track fine, it's easy to adjust and seems quite sturdy. It's easy to flip the wheels up out of the way when you don't want them in the way. The wheels also help stabilize the unit when I'm connecting or disconnecting it.

WTMI? (Way Too Much Information?)
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #44  
If there is a Lamborghini in your garage then you should have enough money to buy yourself a nice rear blade with hydraulic everything :laughing:

However, maybe you don't have enough money to buy a new blade BECAUSE there is a Lamborghini in your garage :D

Would adding more weight to the gauge wheels themselves help with the 'teeter tottering' and allow the blade to dig in more when you fully lower the 3 pt hitch?
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel?
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Piston,

The Lamborghini was a gift, so it doesn't really help one way or the other financially, besides it's a '65 so it's a money pit in and of itself.

The weight of the wheels does help when they are off the ground if you are in cutting mode.

I'm happy, overall, with the tool, but I'm still learning about how to fine tune it.
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #46  
No doubt Cali won't let you license and drive the '65 Lambo anyway as it would be considered a "Gross Polluting Vehicle" in Nancy Pe-lousy's socialist paradise in the making.
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #47  
On hard packed surfaces the wheels don't touch the ground if you want to cut much at all; instead the unit kind of "teeter-totters" with the blade being the fulcrum. If you lower the 3PH enough to put a lot of pressure (weight) on the blade then that lifts the wheels off the ground. If you then lower the wheels in this new position then the weight comes off the blade and it doesn't cut, it just changes the orientation of the cutting edge in relationship to the road.

If I am remembering correctly part of your design was that you used a chain for the top link in order to allow free movement. In my experience I like having a hard top link as I believe that this gives the best "grader" type action. I will try to explain. In a road grader the frame is solid and the adjustment is only to the positioning of the blade itself. Since the blade is approximately half way between the wheels the bumps and dips are halved. The rigid top link duplicates this action (within limitations). It does require adjusting of the gauge wheels more. (This is where hydraulic would help a lot.)

This is what I do. In hard material you need to loosen it up somehow--either with a different tool or with more weight to cut the hard material some. Work on getting the high spots cut off to create your loose material. In soft material you with a lot of hills and valleys you can set the wheels so that on hard level ground the blade is a few inches off the ground with the blade lowered and in "float position" on the 3 pt control. Go over all the ground in different directions with this setting until you are no longer cutting high spots and filling low. Put the 3 point in float so that the blade is being "carried by the wheels and the tractor. On the hard and level surface again adjust the wheels so that the blade in float position just clears the ground and go over the surface again. If it is cutting too much it is because the wheels are sinking into the soft material and you can compensate by lowering the wheels a bit (raising the blade) by a half turn on the wheel link. This requires some fine tuning, but you will zero in on a setting which will give you a very even surface.

That is what I do and it seems to work for me.

Mike
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel?
  • Thread Starter
#48  
MJHPeterson, yes, this is pretty much what I do now. I only use the chain when it comes time to finish grade, but with the fixed top link I'm able to get better control over the cutting edge and use the rigidity to do the basic shaping (leveling). I was surprised to find how sensitive the tool is to wheel height, but it's not a really a problem, just a discovery.

Thanks so much for your input!

RE: Lamborghini. Road? License? My Lamborghini is an R-360 tractor. 60hp, 3 cylinder, air cooled.
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel? #49  
...My Lamborghini is an R-360 tractor. 60hp, 3 cylinder, air cooled.
THAT's funny... I was thinking the same. What a heck of a Gift!!!:laughing:

(just stock photos below from google - by chance, do you have photos of your Lamborghini?)
 
   / Gauge wheels or tail wheel?
  • Thread Starter
#50  
teg, yeah, what fun are cars? You can't add attachments, only one or two hydraulic systems, they look silly with FELs.....
Lambo%20at%20home%20sm.jpg

Gear%20case%20sm.jpg


Awaiting restoration.
 

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