GC1705 Adding LED Lights

[airbiscuit]

Often, there us an unused plug under the seat. It is part of the wiring harness for a rear work light if that option was ordered. If there is one, that makes everything else easy. Often, that plug looks like this ...

Then it's a simple matter of getting a mating plug - inline fuse - switch - LED lights

inline fuse - switch - LED Lights.

I originally installed halogen lights and then replaced them with these LEDs (less than $20 for 2) ..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIHOZY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Massey2019]

I値l check it out tomorrow to see if there痴 an extra plug.

Thanks

 

[Nacademus]

I値l check it out tomorrow to see if there痴 an extra plug.

Thanks

There is, it's bundled into a loop with electrical tape-but its not switched and always hot when the ignition is on. Also, the gauge of the wire is not great. That's why I ran my own.

I abandoned the rear work-light and the accessory circuit. I just didn't like how they were ran. The work-light circuit was ran outside the subframe and I could see it wearing through on the sharp corners someday. I also noticed on mine that the polarity was changed at the pigtails under the fender. I know polarity doest matter on an incandescent light (original work-light), but for an LED, it needs to be correct and compensated for.

 

[Massey2019]

Found it and is hot when the ignition is on.
But, like you, I will run my own wires for the lights.

Thanks for the information!

 

[airbiscuit]

Found it and is hot when the ignition is on.
But, like you, I will run my own wires for the lights.

Thanks for the information!

So does that mean you will plug into that? I found that mating plug at an auto parts store.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you're going to run your own power back, here's a slick way to tap into your fuse box.

 

[Massey2019]

Like that kit!

I did buy a harness with all built in. Will connect to the battery and save the lead that is free for a future project.

Thanks

 

[airbiscuit]

Be sure to post pics of the install.

 

[WranglerX]

When figuring current draw for fusing the formula is "watts" divided by "volts" equal "amps"...

Watts / Volts = Amps

18W / 12V = 1.5A

Figure out how many LEDS you want to run, add together all the amps requires by each lamp and put them on a fuse with about 25 % more capacity then actual (calculated) amperage draw....

I used inline fuse holder below.... Put ring terminal on one end and connected directly to battery and wired the other end to switch and used it for acc power to rear for sprayer so I could have sprayer run with engine off... But same concept could be used to power lights with or with out a relay....IF not using relays just be sure switch(s) are rated for amp draw (I used 30A rocker switch with LED from FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto PartS)) ...

Dale

 

[Massey2019]

Good information! The harness I bought has an in-line fuse holder. I will use the formula to get a good understanding as I put it together.

Thanks

 

[airbiscuit]

Which lights/harness did you buy? Pics please.

 

[cdaigle430]

I just ran one wire back to the battery but I need more power back there for more than just two added LED lights. I also need it for my blower chute motor and deflector actuator. This year I am adding lights to the front but I dont know where to put them-I want to light up the front without the loader blocking it at all times. In the winter I also have the cab so I cant put the light on the ROPs.

 

[WranglerX]

I just ran one wire back to the battery but I need more power back there for more than just two added LED lights. I also need it for my blower chute motor and deflector actuator. This year I am adding lights to the front but I dont know where to put them-I want to light up the front without the loader blocking it at all times. In the winter I also have the cab so I cant put the light on the ROPs.

Depending on how you use loader, what about a couple of small "utility" LED'S on loader arms.... I know sounds silly with the arms in motion and all, but where do you need the light....

Dale

 

[Massey2019]

Been working on the wiring. Have it all run, a bit of a challenge. I ran all wires in flex conduit and it looks factory. I also put together a 2500 lb Harbor Freight winch on the 3 Point adapter. I used connectors that spare hooking and unhooking wires.

Waiting on my light brackets from Acme Outfitters. They are supposed to be here Monday and then I can finish the lights.

As soon as I get the remaining brackets, I will finish and post pictures.
Thanks

 

[Massey2019]

Finally got the lights done. Waited forever for the light brackets due to supplier issues. Sorry for the long time lapse in getting this posted.

I ran the wiring in flex, following the factory wiring as closely as possible under the tractor.

Drilled two 3/4" holes in the ROPS on the bottom side of the top of the roll bar. ( I understand about modification of the ROPS, no need to send the ROPS police). Fished the wires in, protected by grommets. Built a water resistant switch box that is mounted to the seat frame at the back of the tractor. Seat clears by 1.5" when fully compressed.

Lights are great! The front and rear of the tractor are brilliantly lit now. Not that I run it at night, but plan to use it next winter if I need to plow snow.

Appreciate the help and suggestions as I was working on this.

 

[cglaser104]

Don't suppose anyone has the bulb numbers for the tail light replacement for GC series tractors? I'd like to convert to LED. Looks like headlamps use 921 bulbs. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks!