JerryG
Super Member
I know that it has been discussed several times throughout the years. I don't need to know, I was just trying to help.
gear vs. hydro for pulling tiller
- Thread starter bluecarpenter
- Start date
- Views: 16363
PineRidge
Super Member
A gradual consensus seems to have evolved at the TBN site leading to an understanding that it is the owner, rather than the transmission type, that determines what is best for each particular person
HAILEYSCOMET
New member
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2005
- Messages
- 2
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( HAILEYSCOMET,
Please in the future, do not use all caps...It is considered to be yelling! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, besides being hard to read. Thank you.
/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif )</font>
CAPS IS SCREAMING??????????
I DID'NT HEAR A THING......LOL
HARD TO READ????
NEED NEW GLASSES.....LOL
sorry just kidding...lol
Please in the future, do not use all caps...It is considered to be yelling! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif, besides being hard to read. Thank you.
/forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif )</font>
CAPS IS SCREAMING??????????
I DID'NT HEAR A THING......LOL
HARD TO READ????
NEED NEW GLASSES.....LOL
sorry just kidding...lol
txdon
Super Star Member
I'm kind of glad this old post has been brought to life again.
I have changed my mind.
I used to be all hydro but since this thread and my experience with my tractor in some cases of heavy ground engagement such as pulling a full box blade in mid or high range on inclines I believe the geared compact tractor to be more satisfying than the hydro when I want all four tires spinning before I bog down. My tractor will spin all four and bury itself in low range but some people who need the speed might not want to shift to low to complete a heavy pull up hill.
I am not completely on subject because I do not have a tiller, but..oh well...
However, I prefer hydro over gear for 95% of MY tractor uses. The other 5% I will downshift to low range and enjoy more seat time. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I have changed my mind.
I used to be all hydro but since this thread and my experience with my tractor in some cases of heavy ground engagement such as pulling a full box blade in mid or high range on inclines I believe the geared compact tractor to be more satisfying than the hydro when I want all four tires spinning before I bog down. My tractor will spin all four and bury itself in low range but some people who need the speed might not want to shift to low to complete a heavy pull up hill.
I am not completely on subject because I do not have a tiller, but..oh well...
However, I prefer hydro over gear for 95% of MY tractor uses. The other 5% I will downshift to low range and enjoy more seat time. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
hobbyfarm
Veteran Member
I know this is an apples & oranges comparison...until you see about tiller rotor speed/ground speed.
I used to have a <font color="teal">Yamaha TerraPro</font>.
I had the good fortune to win a radio sweepstakes that included: Yamaha TerraPro YFU350U ATV, 38" tiller, hydraulic system, 50gal sprayer w/16' boom, 100gal sprayer w/24' boom, 42" woods bush hog, 48" woods finish mower. This was top shelf stuff, but in the long run, it's a gimmick. Mostly due to the proprietary 2 1/2 /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif point hitch. (I humorously called it that because the mowers were semi-mounted, yet the tiller was 3 point mounted.) Of course, there's no future to anything proprietary (look at IH's Quick Hitch, and AC's Snap Coupler), in my opinion.
The TerraPro had a 2000rpm rear PTO rated at around 11HP. 1st gear of the TerraPro was 1.5mph.
The RT38 woods tiller (4 tines per rotor flange) ended up with about 210 rpm at the rotor.
My soil is a sandy loam with very little clay (when we had it tested at the lab about 20 years ago, it was someting like 30%sand/45%loam/25%clay). The first time I tilled it, it scratched about 3.5" deep. The second time I tilled it cross-ways from the first, about a week after the first time and it tilled it pretty uniformly 6" deep. I tilled it after growing a vegetable garden, and it was at least 8" deep, this was the first time the TerraPro had trouble tilling from traveling too fast.
Gear/hydro - this debate will go on forever. In a laboratory setting hydro may prove to be advantageous. But, in the real-world, gear drive will get the job done as well, given time to do the job properly. If you feel like your gearing may be too tall, you can always opt for the 6 tine per flange tillers, they will chop 50% more per revolution.
That's my $0.02. and your mileage may vary.
I used to have a <font color="teal">Yamaha TerraPro</font>.
I had the good fortune to win a radio sweepstakes that included: Yamaha TerraPro YFU350U ATV, 38" tiller, hydraulic system, 50gal sprayer w/16' boom, 100gal sprayer w/24' boom, 42" woods bush hog, 48" woods finish mower. This was top shelf stuff, but in the long run, it's a gimmick. Mostly due to the proprietary 2 1/2 /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif point hitch. (I humorously called it that because the mowers were semi-mounted, yet the tiller was 3 point mounted.) Of course, there's no future to anything proprietary (look at IH's Quick Hitch, and AC's Snap Coupler), in my opinion.
The TerraPro had a 2000rpm rear PTO rated at around 11HP. 1st gear of the TerraPro was 1.5mph.
The RT38 woods tiller (4 tines per rotor flange) ended up with about 210 rpm at the rotor.
My soil is a sandy loam with very little clay (when we had it tested at the lab about 20 years ago, it was someting like 30%sand/45%loam/25%clay). The first time I tilled it, it scratched about 3.5" deep. The second time I tilled it cross-ways from the first, about a week after the first time and it tilled it pretty uniformly 6" deep. I tilled it after growing a vegetable garden, and it was at least 8" deep, this was the first time the TerraPro had trouble tilling from traveling too fast.
Gear/hydro - this debate will go on forever. In a laboratory setting hydro may prove to be advantageous. But, in the real-world, gear drive will get the job done as well, given time to do the job properly. If you feel like your gearing may be too tall, you can always opt for the 6 tine per flange tillers, they will chop 50% more per revolution.
That's my $0.02. and your mileage may vary.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( But, remember, there many people who don't know how to drive a manual shift car and learning on a dangerous piece of equipment isn't safe. )</font>
IMHO.. driving a gear tractor is easier than driving a ger auto, due to the fact that you don't run thru the gears.. just grab one and go.
Probably learning the clutch for a non manual driver will be the single hardest part.. and for cars.. learning to smoothly transition between gears on a single clutching will be the next hardest.
Soundguy
IMHO.. driving a gear tractor is easier than driving a ger auto, due to the fact that you don't run thru the gears.. just grab one and go.
Probably learning the clutch for a non manual driver will be the single hardest part.. and for cars.. learning to smoothly transition between gears on a single clutching will be the next hardest.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Well as of yet I havent found any such instances on this forum. Maybe another forum )</font>
I'm not sure it was the price comparison sub.. but it was TBN.
Soundguy
I'm not sure it was the price comparison sub.. but it was TBN.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You would think if there was " many many many instances" you would come across at least 1. )</font>
Like Jerry said.. you just have to search. The example I used of a tractor not climbing out of a ditch was a recent one.. a bonified post.. not a friend of a friend of a friends story.. and it was posted here on TBN.. somewhere..
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do they have the same problems with bulldozers with hydro's not being able to go up hills because of an internal relief valve lifting ??
)</font>
IMHO.. Can't say for sure as I don't know the internals of the tractor hydro system. i do know from heavy equipment experience, that on all our non-gear equipment ( bulldozer, road grader, rollers, excavators, pans ).. All but the pans will eaither spin wheels/tracks, or stall the engine. In other words.. the bulldozers, etc.. will break tractor or simply stall if the track / wheel can't move. The one instance where I have seen an 'automatic' have a revved engine and no wheel movement is our big cat 613 and 623 pans. I've seen a fully loaded pan coming up out of a WRA and have the wheels stall, with engine at full power. IMHO.. that's the closest thing i can think of as an internal safety bypass.. etc.
Soundguy
Like Jerry said.. you just have to search. The example I used of a tractor not climbing out of a ditch was a recent one.. a bonified post.. not a friend of a friend of a friends story.. and it was posted here on TBN.. somewhere..
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do they have the same problems with bulldozers with hydro's not being able to go up hills because of an internal relief valve lifting ??
)</font>
IMHO.. Can't say for sure as I don't know the internals of the tractor hydro system. i do know from heavy equipment experience, that on all our non-gear equipment ( bulldozer, road grader, rollers, excavators, pans ).. All but the pans will eaither spin wheels/tracks, or stall the engine. In other words.. the bulldozers, etc.. will break tractor or simply stall if the track / wheel can't move. The one instance where I have seen an 'automatic' have a revved engine and no wheel movement is our big cat 613 and 623 pans. I've seen a fully loaded pan coming up out of a WRA and have the wheels stall, with engine at full power. IMHO.. that's the closest thing i can think of as an internal safety bypass.. etc.
Soundguy
