Generator and Well Pump

[Travelover]

Similar, I posted a link to a 'kit', has the cable and the external inlet box. These small ietms really add up.

Go with a minimum of a 30A switch, I'm replacing a Gen-Tran 20A switch at my house.

Agreed, but when I was shopping for a transfer switch it occurred to me that the GenTran and Reliance appeared to be made by the same company. When I did an apples to apples comparison, GenTran was cheaper.

So, my point is - either source has an easy to install device. Check them both to get the best deal.

 

[RonMar]

You can get a 30 Amp , 6 circuit transfer switch kit for less than $400, you can install it in a few hours. Or pay someone to install it, much much safer.

Reliance Controls Transfer Switch Kit 6 Circuit, Model# 31406CRK | Transfer Switches | Northern Tool + Equipment

Or you can get a UL approved circuit breaker interlock kit for your main panel for $150 and then your generator can be used to power anything that is already wired into your main panel, within the limits of your generator of course. That is the biggest drawback of the gentran add-on panels in my opinion. They work well, but you are limited to only powering with your generator, those items that you hard wired from your main panel into the transfer panel, without going back to extension cords or re-wiring the gentran panel if your power needs change.

The interlock kit is also WAY easier to install than the gentran IMO. You drill and rivet the sliding interlock plate to the face of the panel. Then you re-locate a top breaker in your mainpanel that coincides with the notch in the sliding plate, to farther down in the stack(2 wires and a breaker). You add the input breaker to the top of the stack and wire it to the input plug comming from the generator(new breaker, 2 hots, neutral to the neutral buss and ground to the ground buss) and you are done.

The sliding plate prevents both the input breaker and the main panel breaker from being on at the same time. IE: you have to shut off the main breaker/commercial input, in order to slide the interlock plate out of the backfeed/generator input breakers way to allow it to be turned on. This allows you to safely backfeed your main panel and everything already wired to it without hazarding any utility workers.

 

[dmccarty]

Ron,

This is exactly what we did. Seems like the transfer switch is just more money and a built in limitation. The panel, well in my case, panels already allow me to turn on/off what I want. It just up to me to make sure I don't overload the generator.

Later,
Dan

 

[Dusty Road]

That sounds like a good idea to me. And, if I were to ever upgrade to a 'whole house' generator, I'd be ready to go. Right? I've got a 250 gallon propane tank sitting outside. It'd be kinda silly to keep filling up 5 gallon gas cans if I could avoid it.

Is this the place to go?

Generator InterLock Kit

I have a 200 amp square D panel that is FULL.

 

[Soundguy]

Hey.. now that's a nice idea.. a setup that feeds the main pannel via a 220 breaker, and it is mechanically interlocked.. so that the main breaker must be flipped ( thus isolating you from the utility line ).. and then you can activate the 'backfeed' breaker.

I think when we build our next house we will get the electrician to wire something liek that up and then to a wet location plug on the side of the house for my pto generator.. sure beats the transfer switch idea I had..



soundguy

Or you can get a UL approved circuit breaker interlock kit for your main panel for $150 and then your generator can be used to power anything that is already wired into your main panel, within the limits of your generator of course. That is the biggest drawback of the gentran add-on panels in my opinion. They work well, but you are limited to only powering with your generator, those items that you hard wired from your main panel into the transfer panel, without going back to extension cords or re-wiring the gentran panel if your power needs change.

The interlock kit is also WAY easier to install than the gentran IMO. You drill and rivet the sliding interlock plate to the face of the panel. Then you re-locate a top breaker in your mainpanel that coincides with the notch in the sliding plate, to farther down in the stack(2 wires and a breaker). You add the input breaker to the top of the stack and wire it to the input plug comming from the generator(new breaker, 2 hots, neutral to the neutral buss and ground to the ground buss) and you are done.

The sliding plate prevents both the input breaker and the main panel breaker from being on at the same time. IE: you have to shut off the main breaker/commercial input, in order to slide the interlock plate out of the backfeed/generator input breakers way to allow it to be turned on. This allows you to safely backfeed your main panel and everything already wired to it without hazarding any utility workers.

 

[Travelover]

Hey.. now that's a nice idea.. a setup that feeds the main pannel via a 220 breaker, and it is mechanically interlocked.. so that the main breaker must be flipped ( thus isolating you from the utility line ).. and then you can activate the 'backfeed' breaker.

I think when we build our next house we will get the electrician to wire something liek that up and then to a wet location plug on the side of the house for my pto generator.. sure beats the transfer switch idea I had..



soundguy

If you are putting in a new service box, you can buy them with the interlock feature already built in. These interlock kits seems to be $1 worth of metal and $149 worth of convenience.

 

[Soundguy]

Hey.. still a good idea though!

soundguy

 

[jinjimbob]

That interlock is interesting, never heard of that.

Although, would I still know when the main power came back on?
I can't see/hear any neighbours, have no street lights, nothing visible.

Dusty, if you panel is full, you should be able use the slim doubling up breakers to create room.

 

[Dusty Road]

Jimbob, I have the same problem. I guess I'll just have to flip the breakers everytime I fill 'er up...

 

[RonMar]

As mentioned you can buy the whole house panels already configured for a interlocked backfeed breaker, I have seen them on the shelf at Home Depoo. I have used the interlocked breaker method for a year now, and it works great. They are $1 of materials and $149 of convenience AND UL approval, which I am guessing that is what you are paying for. Lotta hoops to hop thru to get that approval and prepare for any possible liability from someone not following directions properly and hurting someone

As for knowing when the power is back on, well you can check by cycling the interlocked breakers when you re-fuel or check the oil as suggested. You could also have a pilot light added to your panel that monitors the commercial side of the main breaker. Of course work on the hot side of the main breaker requires that the meter be pulled, which will require an electrician and some utility company intervention to re-attach and seal the meter.

I have a small Fluke Volt Alert probe Fluke VoltAlert 1AC-II Voltage Detector Fluke VoltAlert 1AC-II which is a AC power detector that is about the size of a fat ball point pen. I use it to determine if AC circuits are hot before I go to working on them. It does not make any electrical contact, but glows red when in close proximity to an AC hot wire. It will not detect the hot wire thru conduit, but I can hold it up near the bottom of my electric meter and it glows red when AC power is available at the meter.