glide shift or hydro

MChalkley · Jul 21, 2001

Gamehunter - That's right, it was you who started this topic, wasn't it? And you did ask about tires, too, didn't you? /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Since you asked one question, then disappeared, I thought you were just baiting me into a diatribe on HST vs. GST. I hope you realize it didn't work... /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Well, since Glenn has been chiding me lately for not having an opinion /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif, I'll broach one here: Your dealer either neglected to consider enough factors, or you didn't tell us everything. First question: What are you going to be doing with the tractor? The only hint you gave us was that you're getting it with a loader. My opinion is (I warned you it was coming...): if you're doing anything besides mowing grass (which you aren't likely to need the loader for...), skip the turf tires. I had turf tires on a 20-something once. They were awful. Get the R4's, air 'em down to the minimum you can for your weight (again, the tractor's, that is), and take it easy when you're on the lawn if you have to. At least then you'll be able to use the tractor for something besides mowing grass...

There, I've given my opinion. Boy do I feel better... /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

MarkC

kubmech · Jul 21, 2001

Mainly what I see is, when going into a pile (usually in a higher gear because you don't want to be bothered with shifting) when the engine starts to bog they feather the clutch to bring rpms back up. Makes for very smooth operation
but is brutal on the clutch.

DarinRay · Jul 21, 2001

Oh I see well I shoudln't have any problem with that because what I do is just put the thing in 1 and creep with my rpms high and dig right in until I have a full bucket. What I'm doing today is actually busting it my hillside up with teh backhoe first then it's nice a loose and easy to dig into. Doing it without BH'ing first just picks up the darn back end or makes me tilt way too far sideways until the hard soil breaks up(if it does)./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

Anyway one more thing that does have me puzzled is what are the signs of your clutch starting to go? Again the only things I really can relate to are autos and then it would get hard putting the car or truck in gear or you would start having the clutch start to slip when in gear. Are they the same? Thanks again everyone

Darin

MChalkley · Jul 21, 2001

Darin - Yep, same symptoms.

MarkC

kubmech · Jul 21, 2001

The best way to judge clutch wear is to pay attention to the amount of free-play in the pedal, the more the clutch wears the less free play you have. If you're constantly adjusting free play you're wearing down quick. The less you have to adjust free play the easier you are on the clutch. If you ignore free play to the point the tractor stops moving you waited too long and it's probably too late.

DarinRay · Jul 21, 2001

Thanks guys again. Maybe just maybe one of these days I will be posting something that is helpful to others and not just getting information from all you. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif But for the time being I do have another. I was actually just outside inspecting the girl (L35) because I worked for awhile with her and just wanted to go over some areas. I've been watching my front axles seals because they do have oil (looks more like grease when mixed with dust and dirt) leaking out and also after reading posts on air pressure I was watching my tires when I had a full load in the front bucket and they did squash down so I won't be deflating the fronts and actually the backs don't show hardly any wear so I probably won't be messing with them either but I do keep an eye on the pressures.

Boy I was re-reading this post and it's a good thing my English teacher isn't in here. WOW! [laughing]

Anyway I was looking at the play (I think) in the clutch and what we are talking about here is when you can feel the pressure when depressing the pedal signifying clutch is enabled....Right? So while I push the pedal in and until I feel that pressure is the play right? I just don't like to guess because that does get me into trouble so that's why I must make sure that my thoughts are correct. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Darin

MChalkley · Jul 21, 2001

Darin - As the clutch wears out, the "free play" in the clutch (which is what you described) decreases, until there's none left, at which point the clutch begins slipping because there's not enough "free play" for it to engage completely. I don't know how much free play your L35 is supposed to have - kubmech will probably know - but it's not usually too critical, as long as there's a inch or so, and the clutch completely releases when you depress the pedal, of course.

MarkC

StanInCalif · Jul 21, 2001

Glenn-
Those other implements are just for show- I'm trying to fit in in this ag-oriented community, and a disc is very ag-ish. As it is I am having to work at night as my JD is yellow, not green (industrial, not farm tractor).
Seriously, please note that I voted for the hydro. - Stan

gamehunter · Jul 22, 2001

Thanks Mark for the reply on the tires. You were right I do not plan on useing this to cut grass just built a house and am looking to do my landscaping with and then after that were thinking about a couple of horses so I think it'll be kept busy for the next few years.I think Monday I'll go down to the dealer and get one on order. Once again I thank everyone for their 2cents.