Glow Plug Kit available for Y385 engine?

[jimogeek]

Two questions:

One, where the heck are glow plugs supposed to be on the YangDong 385 engine? I've got a 2006 Foton 254A with that motor. I *think* they're supposed to go on the right side (facing forward) of the head, opposite the side with the fuel delivery system? I think I see three threaded holes where glow plugs *could go*.

Two, are there kits available to retrofit a motor that didn't have the glow plugs installed, or do I just need to get a grounding bar, glow plugs, and wire up a relay? Now that the weather is getting cold, starting this thing is a chore, and I use it almost every day! Started fine in the warmer weather.

Thanks!

 

[Affordable]

Are you sure its a Yangdong Y385 ? All the Yangdongs I have seen have glow plugs, but the easiest most cost effective fix is to get a lower radiator hose heater, we have them .Foton used a lot of Laidong KM385 engines some do not have glow plugs, that's why I asked you to confirm the Engine make and model

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[jimogeek]

I'll double check!

 

[greg_g]

If those "threaded holes" you see are actually where the GPs should be, the engine would not start. Besides, GPs are typically on the fuel delivery side, immediately adjacent to the injectors.

Different strokes on the glow plug alternative though. I'd install an external oil pan heater any day, before even considering an inline coolant heater. I had the same engine in 4 cylinder configuration, the Y485. Because of one more cylinder under the cowl, there was no room for decompression linkage. Hard hard starting beast when I first bought it. So the first thing I did was to add a pan heater. In addition to thinner oil helping the starter crank faster, heat rises off the oil pan to warm the coolant passages as well. After that, I added a GP relay, a starter relay, and upgraded the associated wiring to 10AWG. From that point it started first time, every time. Right up to the day I traded it in.

//greg//

 

[succor]

I own the same tractor which came with the glow plugs. A definite need for cold winters! The plugs are mounted to a copper bus bar on the fuel injector side of the engine, not the other side like you're saying. You will see a wire connected at the end closest to the fuel tank which is power for the plugs. Does your key have a preheat setting before start? If so, hold that and that will send power to your glow plugs before starting. I also have a n line rad hose heater which heat s the block in about 1 hour before starting.

Cory

 

[jimogeek]

Cool, thanks for the info. I don't have a preheat setting on mine and I don't see the glow plugs, but I'll look again with this info.

Duh on the other post, it'd be pretty tough to start if the glow plugs weren't in, thanks for pointing that out!

 

[jimogeek]

Thanks for the info, how did you like the Laidong engine? I've also added the starter relay and upgraded wiring to deal with the intermittent starts, and took apart the solenoid to lube/clean it up.

 

[PILOON]

You could simply add plugs and a momentary spring loaded push switch to activate the plugs.
Not rocket science, but it will do the job.
Simply hold the switch 'push on' for 15-20 seconds and start her up.
You are then the 'relay' LOL, it works!
I knew one chap thet simply held the wires between his fingers to start his engine, and he did that for years.
Just limit the heating for a short time, like count thousand one, thousand two etc and at 15 try her out. If no start repeat 'til she starts.
I ran my GMC 6.2 L for years that way!

 

[succor]

Motor is good so far; no trouble at all! Good to see you upgraded the wiring which causes a lot of headaches. Also I found that grounding is a problem. I used to have no signals flashers etc till I added more grounds with heavier wire. Also the battery ground should be a short as possible and cleaned. Gm delco 3 wire alternator was a good upgrade to this unit. I am sure you could upgrade the plugs and key switch for your tractor, check with the dealer. Would be worth the investment IMO. Only major downfall is I may have to split the tractor due to a small oil leak between motor and bell housing. This is an issue with some of these tractors from the factory not properly tightening bolts. Once fixed all will be good. for the price of these tractors and if you're not afraid of getting your hands dirty, I'm impressed with the work it does.

Cory

 

[Rich Waugh]

Cory,

Definitely don't wait to fix that loose bell housing connection. If it gets loose enough it will break the bell housing and then you're really into major repairs. I had to do mine and was glad I did it - four of the bolts were only finger tight.

 

[sd455dan]

You could simply add plugs and a momentary spring loaded push switch to activate the plugs.
Not rocket science, but it will do the job.
Simply hold the switch 'push on' for 15-20 seconds and start her up.
You are then the 'relay' LOL, it works!
I knew one chap thet simply held the wires between his fingers to start his engine, and he did that for years.
Just limit the heating for a short time, like count thousand one, thousand two etc and at 15 try her out. If no start repeat 'til she starts.
I ran my GMC 6.2 L for years that way!

Must be a really heavy duty momentary contact switch to handle 30 amps . If going this route the Ford ones for the Thermo -start style will probably work as well as anything. or a light duty momentary and a riding mower starter relay would work well ...

 

[Rich Waugh]

Given the nature of momentary contact switches, I'd strongly recommend using a realy to switch the load so the momentary contact switch is only having to handle a couple amps at most. You can get a standard 12v, 30amp relay for about ten bucks at most car parts places - just ask for a horn relay. That's certainly the way I'd deal with the glow plugs if I needed them. which I never have.

 

[greg_g]

The two relays I mentioned were the simple and age-old Ford type.

Fifteen bucks ($14.90) on eBay, delivered. If you don't need the second switch post, single post models are available as well.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

If the engine is a Direct injection Laidong engine, that does not have glow plugs you cannot add them , plain and simple !!! I never did see where the OP said which engine he had, he thought he had a Yangdong Y385 but was going to Confirm ?

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[sd455dan]

If the engine is a Direct injection Laidong engine, that does not have glow plugs you cannot add them , plain and simple !!! I never did see where the OP said which engine he had, he thought he had a Yangdong Y385 but was going to Confirm ?

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

If it is the type without glow plugs - it should have the single thermo-start in the intake manifold , at least that would make sense...
So that there is some type of cold start augmentation. ?.?

 

[greg_g]

Direct injection engines start much more easily in the cold. The markedly higher injection pressure creates a significantly more atomized fuel/air mixture directly into the combustion chamber. No swirl (pre-combustion) chambers on DI engines. That said, if there's a compression release - that's considered a cold start assist.

//greg//

 

[succor]

If I read the specs of my foton 254 it says the engine is direct injection with glow plugs installed. I'm no expert but with the glow plugs, I never have trouble winter starting.

 

[jimogeek]

Sorry, got busy working and just had time to catch up on this.

Yes, It's the Laidong engine, no glow plugs. Do they have the headgasket problems I've read about on the other engines? When I try starting it looks like I'm getting white-ish smoke until it kicks in and spews out the normal black exhaust for a few seconds before settling in. I've only got about 200 hours on the engine, I've only owned it for about 50 of those hours and since summer. I also replaced the fuel filter, will change the injector pump oil out this evening.

 

[succor]

If it's a cold start, sounds normal, unburned fuel to black to smooth idle. If the idle was still rough after awhile that would be a concern. Check oil water in rad etc. Mine does this if it's a cold start but I hold the glow plugs down longer to compensate for it plus plugging it in. Head gasket could be a problem if the torque settings haven't been checked yet; valve lash should be checked as well.

 

[jimogeek]

Wanted to close the loop on this.

So, bottom line is I'm a dumbass. Last night I popped off the valve cover to do headbolts and adjust valves, and nestled right next to the head cover was a nice buss-bar with three glow plugs... Back this summer I'd had some starter related issues and hooked up a momentary push button and relay setup and bypassed the key switch/starter switch and installed heavier duty wire and stopped using it. I never understood what folks were talking about with the taking the switch to 'H' to activate the glow plugs. Found the miniscule 'H' as a mark on the ignition switch. It was warm last night so I didn't have any problems starting the tractor anyway, but will test it out this evening. I've got a 40a relay that I'll hook up and beef up the glowplug system, took the bar off and cleaned up all the contacts, not sure if the glow plugs are still good but I guess I'll find out. Can't tell what amperage is being drawn on the amp meter because when you go to the 'H' or starting position on the ignition switch all the gauges cut out.