Going slow

[SPYDERLK]

Larry,
1st in high range is 9th gear. 4 gears and 3 ranges....low, middle, and high =12 speed. I can't see how hyd. flow would make going, slow. Was hauling dirt from the pond spoils pile and the loader worked fine while moving.

KTWO,
I will try shifting between 2 & 4WD next chance I get.

Bob77064,
Been hauling dirt......it's not an air pressure issue. But maybe I need to let the summer air out and put in winter air:laughing:.
hugs, Brandi

The loader takes precedence over the remotes so it could still work fine with a remote on. Just that when not using the loader the remote would be flowing thru an active circuit or a relief, using one [up to several] HP w/o you knowing it.

... I understand how you mean 7th gear. Looked at by ratio tho, on mine at least, 1st hi range is a "lower" gear.
larry

 

[Texan4Life]

maybe the clutch needs adjusting? like maybe it is slipping a little.

 

[bindian]

Cam,
I will look at the fuel filters if the problem lingers.

Larry,
How can I check that, what you said above, out?

Texas4Life,
Now you may be on to something there. I definitely need to check that out.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Cam,
I will look at the fuel filters if the problem lingers.

Larry,
How can I check that, what you said above, out?

Texas4Life,
Now you may be on to something there. I definitely need to check that out.
hugs, Brandi

I would trust that if the remote levers are centered then they are off and cant be sending flow to the BH or deadheading thru a relief valve to sump. I think you have 2 remotes. Try disconnecting any implement plugged to them. Then, with eng running, switch one lever to either of the output positions and hold it there. This will send hyd fluid thru the relief valve since it has nowhere else to go. This flow will require several HP from the engine because itll be several GPM and hi pressure. Relief spec is 25 to 27 hundred psi. You should note a change in engine sound as it supplies the HP. But you wouldnt hear that if it was doing it all the time. Yould just notice less power as you are reporting. ... But it probably isnt that because you have got the remote levers centered when its happening - right?

Another thing that could use hyd power this way is the 3ph trying to rise but unable to - say if the arms were under the BH and the lever was moved to ask for lift. Oil would go thru the relief similarly as it strained to lift the BH off the frame. Probably not that either?

How about a collapsed liner in one of the loader feed hoses or the Power Beyond hose. That would cause back pressure and power loss and a very hot hose.

If you could tee in a pressure gage at the loader valve input port connection it would let you know the pressure the pump was supplying. If the hyd system is right, it will be low when nothing is in use. If its a couple hundred psi at 2krpm, its ok. If its more its not so good, but it would probably have to be near 1000 for you to notice power loss.

:confused3: Maybe not, but hidden hyd loss is the most likely thing Iv thot of. Try taking off with the bucket held at hard curl against the stop and youll see what I mean. Good luck!
larry

 

[bindian]

I would trust that if the remote levers are centered then they are off and cant be sending flow to the BH or deadheading thru a relief valve to sump. I think you have 2 remotes. Try disconnecting any implement plugged to them. Then, with eng running, switch one lever to either of the output positions and hold it there. This will send hyd fluid thru the relief valve since it has nowhere else to go. This flow will require several HP from the engine because itll be several GPM and hi pressure. Relief spec is 25 to 27 hundred psi. You should note a change in engine sound as it supplies the HP. But you wouldnt hear that if it was doing it all the time. Yould just notice less power as you are reporting. ... But it probably isnt that because you have got the remote levers centered when its happening - right?

Another thing that could use hyd power this way is the 3ph trying to rise but unable to - say if the arms were under the BH and the lever was moved to ask for lift. Oil would go thru the relief similarly as it strained to lift the BH off the frame. Probably not that either?

How about a collapsed liner in one of the loader feed hoses or the Power Beyond hose. That would cause back pressure and power loss and a very hot hose.

If you could tee in a pressure gage at the loader valve input port connection it would let you know the pressure the pump was supplying. If the hyd system is right, it will be low when nothing is in use. If its a couple hundred psi at 2krpm, its ok. If its more its not so good, but it would probably have to be near 1000 for you to notice power loss.

:confused3: Maybe not, but hidden hyd loss is the most likely thing Iv thot of. Try taking off with the bucket held at hard curl against the stop and youll see what I mean. Good luck!
larry

Larry,
I'll disconnect the BH at the remote and play with the remote levers in and out of detent while driving this Friday.

The 3PH lower links and adjustable lift rods are not installed, as the lift rods do not clear the BH subframe. Just the tractor's non removable lift arms are there and move freely.

A interior collapsed hose is one of the last things I want to check as R&R can run up the $$$.

I'll look into installing a guage.

Do you think a "live" circuit of the diverter valve deheading into a non used QD could cause it? I know in the past, I have bumped the joystick button when using the loader. I have been meaning to install a master cutoff switch in that electrical circuit. The diverter valve was installed last spring and have not noticed the slower going until the last few weeks.

Thanks for the help.
hugs, Brandi

 

[SPYDERLK]

Larry,
I'll look into installing a guage.

Do you think a "live" circuit of the diverter valve deheading into a non used QD could cause it? I know in the past, I have bumped the joystick button when using the loader. I have been meaning to install a master cutoff switch in that electrical circuit. The diverter valve was installed last spring and have not noticed the slower going until the last few weeks.

Thanks for the help.
hugs, Brandi

The gauge would be a real shortcut here to verify whether or not you have a big loss in the hyd system. In one quick check of pump head pressure yould know whether to keep looking hyd or go elsewhere. ... Sorry, I dont know enuf about diverter setups and pitfalls to make an intelligent comment. Tho your thumb accessory did occur to me as an unknown possibility, I only have question marks.
I do have doubts about it being a mechanical problem, but injection timing could fit. On mine and probably yours there is a several minute period after each startup during which the injection timing is electro mechanically advanced. You can hear the engine tone change when it times out. I notice that mine has a little more power during the advance. Maybe your advance just quit working and your previous power impressions were before it quit and all from soon after start up. :confused3:
larry

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Air filter? Runs fine at low RPM, not so good as the RPM is increased.

 

[JerryK]

Brakes sticking/out of adjustment [ usually goes the other way, though] ... stick stuck in the linkage underneath. Any blockage in the air intake or exhaust. If it was a turbo, rats, it could have been stuck open waste gate or linkage fell off.

 

[JerryK]

Another thing, you can put in a new fuel filter... and it can wax up right away if you have bad fuel.. or plug up your tank screen, if you have one. Only way to check that is drain all the fuel out, install a new filter and new fuel... Or maybe try some Power Service Diesel 911 additive... might work if you don't have too many fungi floating around in there.... Bio diesel is a fungi/water magnet...

 

[bindian]

Guys,
Engine rpm spools normal and no lag or sluggishness.
Larry,
I put it in 4th and curled (and held it in curl) the bucket and took off and it didn't matter what I did with the joystick....it took off all the same.

On the way home from work, I stopped in and talked to the guy that sold me the Mahindra and told him what I have done and what it is going on. He asked if I did the "redneck" clutch test yet. He told me to put it in 12th gear and hold the brake and let off of the clutch. If it does nothing but sits there.........the clutch is going out. I just tried that test out on the Big RED Beast and nothing happened, it just sit there. Which fits, as this problem has been increasingly getting worse. So Thursday morning, I will drop in and talk to the owner of the dealer I purchased it from and get him to introduce me to his new mechanic and go from there.
hugs, Brandi