good source for tractor paint?

mark777 · Jan 2, 2007

Yes....Automotive production spray booth's at independent and dealers shops is done exactly the way you've stated.

Tractor and implement restorations are consderably different...as they're mostly dissasembled, hanging parts - or waist deep in sheet metal proped up on saw horses and sterile plywood...most often no masking paper is envolved. Alot like shooting motorcycle frames, tanks, fenders and other parts. So, for the many that paint once in a while or a beginner with his first project we are talking the same principals but different painting environments.

Sully 2....I'm listening too.

Sully2 · Jan 2, 2007

mark777 said:
... So, for the many that paint once in a while or a beginner with his first project we are talking the same principals but different painting environments.

Sully 2....I'm listening too.

Thats me!...lol I never had the opportunity to learn..but that doesnt mean I CANT.. And even though I dont plan on making it a career or even do ANY tractor "restoration"...doesnt mean I dont want to know how..and do a good job on the small jobs I might do!

Same with welding....never had a chance to do anything other than "stick rods"..lol I signed up for my welding class the 6th of Feb...and I'll get that under my belt....Im already "practicing" with the small Hobart I bought prior to Xmas.

Maybe after 2 welding classes I'll see if they have anything at the vocational school on "auto" painting..etc???

Gizmo36 · Jan 2, 2007

Nice looking 2440 , I see it was runing at the time the picture was took.

Partsman2 · Jan 2, 2007

mark777 said:
Yes....Automotive production spray booth's at independent and dealers shops is done exactly the way you've stated.

Tractor and implement restorations are consderably different...as they're mostly dissasembled, hanging parts - or waist deep in sheet metal proped up on saw horses and sterile plywood...most often no masking paper is envolved. Alot like shooting motorcycle frames, tanks, fenders and other parts. So, for the many that paint once in a while or a beginner with his first project we are talking the same principals but different painting environments.

I totally understand what you are saying. I spray around on the old farm equipment once in awhile. The last projects were an old Bush Hog brand bush hog (early 70's vintage) and a Woods RM306 finish mower. In both cases I sand blasted them to bare metal and primed them with self etching primer. Then I top coated right over that with acrylic enamel (Dupont Centari) with hardener.

I never was able to get enough spraying time to get good enough at it to spray anything nice. Painters I would do demos with would try to hand me the gun and get me to shoot a car. I always said "No thanks, the only thing they let me spray are old rusted farm implements."

I have to confess that I don't personally own a HVLP gun. It's an old Devilbis JGA502 siphon feed. It works OK for enamel single stage paints but I wouldn't ever attempt anything fancy with it. The nice thing is it's pretty much bullet proof and is always ready to go to work regardless of how many years it's been since I used it.

mark777 · Jan 3, 2007

Andrewj,

I fear we're so far off the beaten path with your dozer paint questions I need to apologize. If it were my equipment I wouldn't use anything less than Dupont's Centari (or PPG's Deltron) Acrylic enamel(s). As good as these lines are..they are not highly impact resistant. Seems like they should go 3-4 years before repairing or complete refinishing is necessary, because Hey, who waxes their crawlers?

It's been my experience that it boils down to three determining factors when people repaint their tractors (vehicles too):
If you're going to keep the equipment (like forever) then spare no expense...within reason of course. Polyurethane is the best suited chemical currently out there.
If you use it and perform a refinish maintenance, as in keeping it presentable at job sites (and not frighten potential customers away) then the above mentioned acrylic enamels do very well at a reasonable price.
If you're 'dolling' it up to sell, (nothing wrong with that) then any economy paint will probably suffice....for about a year.

I think Farmwithjunk may have said it best in a single paragraph:

Farmwithjunk said:
.........

With the over-all cost of doing a GOOD paint job, plus time required taken into consideration as well, another $50 or $75 isn't a dealbreaker. I'm not saying TSC sells BAD paint, just there are BETTER choices that don't cost all that much more. If you've never used a "premium" brand automotive paint, you owe it to yourself to give it a try at least once. There IS a difference. (Usually more durable, better UV protection, stays "color-fast" longer, sprays better, and makes for a "tougher" finish.) .....

mark777 · Jan 3, 2007

Partsman2 said:
.....I have to confess that I don't personally own a HVLP gun. It's an old Devilbis JGA502 siphon feed. It works OK for enamel single stage paints but I wouldn't ever attempt anything fancy with it. The nice thing is it's pretty much bullet proof and is always ready to go to work regardless of how many years it's been since I used it.

Now that surprises me!
I also have a JGA (in my box)...it really is difficult to let go of the old ways isn't it?
And although you don't own one (HVLP) it's apparent that you've used them....so, I still consider your input as 'Talk and Walk the Walk'

.

One of my favorite guns is the (tiny) SATA Mini-Jet. I use it whenever a customer wants scallops, ghost flames, fades or graphics...I have to keep popping the top and ask myself why is there still so much paint in there? I've always been impressed with the finite adjustments...like adjusting spot, about the size of a dime, to full fan about 7". Pricey little bugger though!

Too bad TBN doesn't have a Painters Forum....Then we could really brag and lie to each other

.

scott_vt · Jan 12, 2007

Mornin Mark777,
I apologize for dragging this thread up to the top of the list again but I just wanted to mention that I went back and read all your posts, and you really did add a bunch of interesting information on here! I posted early on the begining of the thread and havent gone back to it since then. Thanks for giving us amatures a peak on how the pros do it !

Farmwithjunk · Jan 12, 2007

scott_vt said:
Mornin Mark777,
I apologize for dragging this thread up to the top of the list again but I just wanted to mention that I went back and read all your posts, and you really did add a bunch of interesting information on here! I posted early on the begining of the thread and havent gone back to it since then. Thanks for giving us amatures a peak on how the pros do it !

It's a good thing when we can learn from the experience of others. That might keep us from learning from our own MISTAKES. I like to listen to an experts opinion AFTER I've gained a little "hands on experience" of my own too.

This was/is a very informative thread. All along, it took the high road, explaining BETTER ways, instead of trashing the "shadetree painter" techniques of some of us amatures.

scott_vt · Jan 12, 2007

Farmwithjunk said:
This was/is a very informative thread. All along, it took the high road, explaining BETTER ways, instead of trashing the "shadetree painter" techniques of some of us amatures.

Mornin Bill,
Yep, your absolutely right ! I really hate to see a great thread turn into an argument.... it just takes away from the super resource we have here !

mark777 · Jan 14, 2007

Well gentleman just a few things I'd like to add....mostly because I've learned from you too!

After so many years I realize I'm not so professional that I don't learn from others successes and failures....There is little difference (if any) between a professional and a beginner when an individual follows preparation guidelines, chemical reductions, mixing and application. Given the same time, equipment and materials I seriously doubt that anyone would see a difference in the end project regardless if it's your 1st or 1000th.

For me, there is a catch 22. A journeyman painter WILL know what to do when things go wrong....but if things do go wrong then that same journeyman has broken his own rules, taken a short cut and most probably sabotaged his own work. Hey...it happens, when you get in a hurry (at my age it doesn't happen anymore

) you work faster but not smarter.

If anyone is interested?? The speed and rush mentality stems from journeyman working in commission dealers and shops...and can be VERY lucrative indeed. Using round figures...I worked for 50% of all labor because I was a combination man (collision + painter)....so, If the estimate for labor was 10 hours @ $45 per hour, I'm PAID $225 for that job. If I do the job in 4 hours...I'm still paid the same amount ($225.) Sounds wonderful and it was...but if there were problems and the job took twenty hours....same money and now not so good.

Most can learn so much from a $10. Peterson publishing "How To" magazine and reading the back of a paint can. This will solve the mystery of what goes on in any body shop plus save you many hundreds of dollars.

Ahhhh...once again I apologize for such a lengthy post. Mark