good source for tractor paint?

[Sully2]

I have a question on the hvlp. Is it full time 'material' when the trigger is pulled? I take it there is no 'air' setting on the trigger.. like on a syphon feed.. first part of trigger is air, farther back is material. I hardly ever get a run.. but I've been happy a couple time by being able to 'blow' the run out.. etc.

Soundguy

??? I cant remember to tell you the truth. Seems like it worked in the "normal manner" though???

 

[Sully2]

With HVLP's you will be using 15-20 lbs at the tip (instead of 35-50 lbs with a siphon feed) and your airline feed (CFM) is far less.
Gun distances are further away from your target with HVLP
Fan and material adjustments are far superior to siphon feed
Transfer efficiency is so drastic that after a single pass - it forces you to take much longer periods between flash coats. Which in layman's terms means you have to force yourself to set the gun down, go outside and read a newspaper for a while....and occasionally returning to stick your finger on a piece of masking tape to check tack.
You may also notice that you've mixed too much sprayable material and often throw away 50% (ouch) until you've become familiar of estimating the materials necessary for your paint projects,

Ive just got 3 ( different sizes) of the El Cheapo HF HVLP guns ( Its cheaper to buy a new gun on sale than it is parts for one!!) I was reading thru the manual here to see about Soundguy's question on the "2 stage trigger" thingy...and notice the instructions sated that consumption was 3 CFM at a MAX of 50 PSI. A guy could almost run that off a bicycle pump!!...LOL Their junk...but do a decent job suprizingly!

 

[Partsman2]

Soundguy,

The trigger still works the same. Half way back is air only and all the way is fluid. You can still blow the run off the edge. I've done it many times myself.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks for the info. That was going to be part of the defiding factor. Like I say.. I don't get many runs.. but when i do.. if i am carfull.. i can usually blow it out.

Soundguy

 

[Sully2]

Soundguy,

The trigger still works the same. Half way back is air only and all the way is fluid. You can still blow the run off the edge. I've done it many times myself.

I thought it was "normal"...but just couldnt remember?? Duhhh!...lol

 

[mark777]

Thanks for the info. That was going to be part of the defiding factor. Like I say.. I don't get many runs.. but when i do.. if i am carfull.. i can usually blow it out.

Soundguy

You will find that the features and mechanics of both styles of guns work almost identical. The gravity fed (cup on top) gun will put out more material and that is probably the single, biggest adjustment one has to learn. Other than that they maintain the three basic adjustments....Fan, Material and Air pressure.

Something I learned and try to pass on to those interested in NEVER (or 99% of the time) having another run is your top coat, base coat and, or clears is a simple but bullet proof method:
(Partsman2 probably knows this one as well)

(1) After mixing, reducing etc and ready to shoot your first coat, mask about 4' of 18" solvent proof masking paper to a flat horizontal surface (shop wall, door or even dust free plywood). Make your final gun adjustments on a corner of that paper, and finally make one long, even pass on the same paper....and then proceed to paint your project with the first flash coat. (2) Set your gun down, disconnect air hose and leave your booth. Force yourself to stay away at least 15 minutes (@ 72°). (3) Re-enter and stick your finger on the paper...you're checking to see if the material is wet, stringy or tacky like the back of masking tape...which is the ideal time to re-coat the project. (4) And very important, Make Another Single Pass on the same piece of paper before you proceed to your project.
Repeat as necessary.
Folks, I tried to pass the wisdom, which I learned from the grand master, to all of my students at the beginning of each I-CAR class...It does indeed add on more step to the painting cycle...but it may very well be the last agonizing and frustrating 'run' you ever have.

God I love talking paint ......sure hope I'm not boaring anyone.

 

[Soundguy]

Hey.. I may not be so dumb after all.

i keep a section of thin sheet metal that I use to test paint on. Every time i mix a new cup.. I hit a piece of that metal first...

Soundguy

(1) After mixing, reducing etc and ready to shoot your first coat, mask about 4' of 18" solvent proof masking paper to a flat horizontal surface (shop wall, door or even dust free plywood). Make your final gun adjustments on a corner of that paper, and finally make one long, even pass on the same paper....and then proceed to paint your project with the first flash coat. (2) Set your gun down, disconnect air hose and leave your booth. Force yourself to stay away at least 15 minutes (@ 72°). (3) Re-enter and stick your finger on the paper...you're checking to see if the material is wet, stringy or tacky like the back of masking tape...which is the ideal time to re-coat the project. (4) And very important, Make Another Single Pass on the same piece of paper before you proceed to your project.
Repeat as necessary.
Folks, I tried to pass the wisdom, which I learned from the grand master, to all of my students at the beginning of each I-CAR class...It does indeed add on more step to the painting cycle...but it may very well be the last agonizing and frustrating 'run' you ever have.

God I love talking paint ......sure hope I'm not boaring anyone.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hey.. I may not be so dumb after all.

Soundguy

MUST NOT SAY IT...............

Hard to pass on an opening like that one!

 

[Sully2]

God I love talking paint ......sure hope I'm not boaring anyone.

For what its worth...I'M LISTENING!!!....

 

[Partsman2]

Mark777 - I think you are saying that your purpose for making the gun pass on the masking paper is so that you can tell when you're ready to lay down another coat. When painting cars there is usually plenty of masking paper on the car to do this test with. Most guys will make a regular gun pass on an adjacent piece of masking paper while they're painting the panel for this same purpose. Of course it's always a good idea to make a test spray on a scrap piece to make sure your gun settings are correct before painting the piece your wanting to make look pretty.

And BTW you will not bore me. I lived and breathed developing the paint end of the business for my company for 14 years. 4 years ago I put someone else in charge of running that company and went to work for another company. I definitely miss the paint business although it is cut throat competitive. Maybe that's why I like it so much!