3-Point Hitch Got a FX265 D, problem is the 3point hitch arms do nothing. New to group and looking for help. Already did complete fluid and filter change.

[ALyooper]

 

[ALyooper]

 

[ALyooper]

This pic is a closer look at the 2 solenoids that I believe are for raising and lowering the 3 ph; power also going to them.

 

[ALyooper]

 

[ALyooper]

This is what I found after removing the valve body from the front of the hydraulic body(valve that is between your legs under the front of the seat),and that piston looking thing is what I am suspicious about that it’s stuck. Thoughts? I have not tried to move it yet. It should slide in and out to actuate the rod behind it to raise the 3ph arms.

 

[ALyooper]

This is a different ball game with this FX than with the older YM models. Baby steps is how I’m approaching fixing anything on this one. Learning.

 

[winston1]

If your rocker arms are in the down position that piston should easily push in. If not, something amuck in there.

 

[ALyooper]

The

If your rocker arms are in the down position that piston should easily push in. If not, something amuck in there.

arms can go up and down with no resistance. The piston,I call it, does not move at all and I’ll have to pound on it to free it up(I do believe).

 

[ALyooper]

Update; the piston that pushes the rod to lift the 3ph arms is not jammed. So, on to the next thing, going to take off the block that holds the 2 solenoids on the right side of the housing to see if there are any valves stuck there. Still could be a bad solenoid.

 

[runningbird]

I've only had 2 F tractors with the 3 digit number. I would be very surprised if it is a mechanical malfunction. from what I've seen its almost always a bad ground somewhere. or a pinched wire. when those tractors came in the container almost all the 3pt electric was disconnected. So I would have to guess and put it together. I was told they were disconnected and separate was for the cleaning process.

 

[ALyooper]

I've only had 2 F tractors with the 3 digit number. I would be very surprised if it is a mechanical malfunction. from what I've seen its almost always a bad ground somewhere. or a pinched wire. when those tractors came in the container almost all the 3pt electric was disconnected. So I would have to guess and put it together. I was told they were disconnected and separate was for the cleaning process.

Thanks good info, good to know

 

[YanmarFever]

If all the plastic wire connections look like the one in your picture, you need to unplug them and clean them out good.
That alone could be your problem.
Do it before you disassemble anymore..

 

[ALyooper]

If all the plastic wire connections look like the one in your picture, you need to unplug them and clean them out good.
That alone could be your problem.
Do it before you disassemble anymore..

Thanks, I’ll do that.

 

[YanmarFever]

Can you post a picture of the rear view of your tractor?
There are 2 plugs on the left side where a tiller plugs in to the UFO control, does your tractor have this.
Also do you have a UFO control panel on the right hand side, if you do please post a picture of it with the lid open.

 

[ALyooper]

Pulled all the plugs and sprayed them good with electronics cleaner and no go. As far as grounding problem, not too sure I have that issue. There are two wires yet that are not connected to anything and they are both ground wires(tested for + or -); they also may have to do with going to a tiller(sensor)?
Any one know how to test solenoids? LMKnow

 

[ALyooper]

Can you post a picture of the rear view of your tractor?
There are 2 plugs on the left side where a tiller plugs in to the UFO control, does your tractor have this.
Also do you have a UFO control panel on the right hand side, if you do please post a picture of it with the lid open.

 

[Eagle1]

Ohm across the solenoid wires while it is NOT plugged up. You should see some sort of resistance, if it is open then the coil is not good. If it is shorted no good as well. Now it could have too much resistance but that is uncommon, normal could be somewhere between 10 and 200 ohms. If the ohm check is OK you could ground it on one side and hit the other side with voltage and see if the solenoid activates.

 

[ALyooper]

With a tes

Ohm across the solenoid wires while it is NOT plugged up. You should see some sort of resistance, if it is open then the coil is not good. If it is shorted no good as well. Now it could have too much resistance but that is uncommon, normal could be somewhere between 10 and 200 ohms. If the ohm check is OK you could ground it on one side and hit the other side with voltage and see if the solenoid activates.

Ohm across the solenoid wires while it is NOT plugged up. You should see some sort of resistance, if it is open then the coil is not good. If it is shorted no good as well. Now it could have too much resistance but that is uncommon, normal could be somewhere between 10 and 200 ohms. If the ohm check is OK you could ground it on one side and hit the other side with voltage and see if the solenoid activates.

With a test light(key on) I test each wire going to the solenoids and get power to all, is that normal? When I activate the 3ph lever or toggle, I get no change of the light on one of the solenoids but the other one the light will flicker on one wire. And it marked a fast clicking sound as if something is trying to move inside??? Haven’t figured that out yet, why it does that on one solenoid and not the other.

 

[Eagle1]

For a solenoid to work you power on one side ground on the other. It can have either power or ground switched by the tractor controls. If you have the 12vdc on both wires to "frame" ground there is no ground to the solenoid at that time but 12vdc is present on one wire and passing through the coil to the other wire.
The flickering means your circuit is engaging and then disengaging. Test lights can be confusing with coils (and other circuits) because they provide a path to ground through the light bulb, lets things work at a reduced voltage. Sorta kinda....
If you test with the solenoid unplugged on the tractor side, you should see one wires with 12vdc the other should be ground. One of them should only right when the switch (toggle or lever) is active. Example 12 present with the switch on, not present with the switch off. Same could be true with the ground, since you can switch either side for the same result.

 

[ALyooper]

For a solenoid to work you power on one side ground on the other. It can have either power or ground switched by the tractor controls. If you have the 12vdc on both wires to "frame" ground there is no ground to the solenoid at that time but 12vdc is present on one wire and passing through the coil to the other wire.
The flickering means your circuit is engaging and then disengaging. Test lights can be confusing with coils (and other circuits) because they provide a path to ground through the light bulb, lets things work at a reduced voltage. Sorta kinda....
If you test with the solenoid unplugged on the tractor side, you should see one wires with 12vdc the other should be ground. One of them should only right when the switch (toggle or lever) is active. Example 12 present with the switch on, not present with the switch off. Same could be true with the ground, since you can switch either side for the same result.

Ok, good post, thanks. If I’m getting power on both wires to the solenoids then that’s my issue, yes?