Grapple grapple add on kits

[Bill Barrett]

Bill the photo looks like you're in the process of installing it. How has the grapple worked out for you? I have a few trees to move and some brush work to do. Right now I'm waiting till I can justify a millonzi grapple, but those look pretty nice. (and inexpensive).

Wedge

I looked a long time, this one was little more than some around 350.00. Also it was close to me and was fun talking to John, 3rd or fourth generation owner in same shop. Green welding does a nice job and much heavier than all I looked at. The grapple is like a hand, one of the tools you wonder how you did with out.

petegoud, yep some bucket work was called for on my FEL.

The Thumb

 

[skipro3]

Bill Barrett; How did you connect the hydraulics?
Sfish: How do you like using the bucket tilt control via a diverter valve to operate your grappler?

I have a Top-n-Tilt for the back and could run lines from there to the grappler but wonder about that long of a line. Any thoughts from anyone on this? It would be easy, seeing as I have the quick connect point and a lever to operate already built into the tractor.

However, with a diverter valve, especially if I can run it off a push button on my FEL stick, would be really easy and intuitive to use.

 

[IslandTractor]

Bill Barrett; How did you connect the hydraulics?
Sfish: How do you like using the bucket tilt control via a diverter valve to operate your grappler?

I have a Top-n-Tilt for the back and could run lines from there to the grappler but wonder about that long of a line. Any thoughts from anyone on this? It would be easy, seeing as I have the quick connect point and a lever to operate already built into the tractor.

However, with a diverter valve, especially if I can run it off a push button on my FEL stick, would be really easy and intuitive to use.

If you have a top n tilt then you have everything other than the longer hoses you'd need to operate a grapple with the rear remote. I used that set up for a couple of years with a grapple and found it perfectly efficient. No problem at all with longer hoses, you just need to route them and secure them so they don't get damaged by brush etc as they must pass below the operator's platform. You'll need to measure carefully (I used an old garden hose) to figure out exactly the length you want. The only caution I would make is to be sure that you can naturally reach for the remote lever. Same as learning to naturally reach for the 4 on the floor shifter in a car without looking for it. It has to be in a fairly natural place so you can drop your hand from the FEL joystick to operate the remote without needing to take your eyes off the grapple/bucket. At first it does require some looking but so long as the remote is conveniently placed it won't take long before it is as natural as shifting gears on a car.

Diverter valves are very popular but they add at least $500-600 for the kits. I have one now but I was just as happy with the rear remote set up.

 

[JackMentink]

Skip pro

I just added one of andy tatro's grapples to My montana 3644 and used the the existing rear hydraulic connections with hydraulic hoses under the tractor to the front. Worked great and you don't have to fool with tapping the hydraulics as the extra remotes are already there. Also the lever to operate the grapple is built in to the tractor platform so it is very natural to use. I put one on about two weeks ago and the things just work great for moving downed trees. You don't have to cut much up as you can grab a whole tree and move it ( if its a relatively small tree <10" in diameter).

Just be aware that if you use the bolt on style, that the top of the bucket isn't heavy enough to take the grapple and you will need some reinforcement. I welded a 2.5X2.5x1/4 tube on the top of my entire bucket and mounted the grapple to it. Works great.

 

[kernal]

I picked up an ATI bolt on grapple from the local CL, the unit was never used and I got a good deal. The ATI grapple is built very well, the grapple mounts to a pipe, which then has collers that bolt to the side of the bucket. I was looking at the small millonzi, but they seem to have closed just when I was ready to buy. I am looking forward to seeing how well the ATI unit works, and being able to mount it to the bucket, and the pallet forks will allow for different uses. I may end up building a brush fork as it's first intended use is clearing left over limbs and tree parts. I'd like to leave as much of the soil as possible so the bucket may not be the right tool for the job. I ordered a WR Long selector valve kit and while talking with Nelson he mentioned they have a small grapple for SCUT's now. I forget exactly what he told me for cost, but it may be worth a phone call.

 

[Brahmus]

I have the Wiko add on bucket grapple (first link in Amigauser's post). I chose it because it is relatively easy to put on and take off. I set it up to operate with the bucket tilt control via a diverter valve. I found that a toothbar on the bucket greatly enhanced my ability to buck brush and pick up logs with the grapple. I have a lot of this kind of work, so I couldn't do without it.

Steve

How is the visibility when the grapple is removed but the bar still there? I like this style vs the ones that mount to the bucket top, it seems more sturdy.

 

[skipro3]

Skip pro

I just added one of andy tatro's grapples to My montana 3644 and used the the existing rear hydraulic connections with hydraulic hoses under the tractor to the front. Worked great and you don't have to fool with tapping the hydraulics as the extra remotes are already there. Also the lever to operate the grapple is built in to the tractor platform so it is very natural to use. I put one on about two weeks ago and the things just work great for moving downed trees. You don't have to cut much up as you can grab a whole tree and move it ( if its a relatively small tree <10" in diameter).

Just be aware that if you use the bolt on style, that the top of the bucket isn't heavy enough to take the grapple and you will need some reinforcement. I welded a 2.5X2.5x1/4 tube on the top of my entire bucket and mounted the grapple to it. Works great.

Hi Jack,
It's Ski Pro 3 btw (I work winters as a ski instructor and my locker # is 3)
Thanks for the info. Can you tell me what the differences are between the grapple you chose and this one, The Thumb?
http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.greens-machine.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/NEW28.jpg&target=tlx_new&title=Thumb%20grapple%2024"

They look almost identical and The Thumb is powder coated. Cost is within $20 with The Thumb the more expensive of the two. coincidently they are both made in Illinois.

Did you buy the stock 26.5" unit? My bucket measures 23", so I'm guessing that a welded 2.5" square tube would make the bar mate up pretty good to the bucket...
The Thumb comes in 24" and 28". I also have a rock bar on the bucket so that might make a difference. How wide is your unit, what thickness of steel are the arms and the gussets as well as the base? Is it a standard 2500 psi cylinder, 2" bore - 6" stroke? Is the hydraulic port the standard 3/8"? Sorry to bug you with the questions, but they aren't on the Andy site but are on the Thumb site. I called Andy's phone # but he isn't in to get this info.

What did hoses and fittings end up costing you?

Thanks!
Jerry

 

[JackMentink]

God to meet you Jerry. I'd say the two are almost identical. I did get the standard 26.5" model from tatro. The tatro is $430 with shipping, but comes un painted. If I had it to do over again, I would spend some extra to get the Powder coated Model (i E the thumb) . The painting with preparation and multiple spray cans is well worth more than $20, and the powder coat is a much better coating. I actually didn't find the thumb until I had mine already ordered. I also have a teeth bar on my bucket and it matches pretty good end of grapple to end of tooth bar. If i had to choose, i would get the 28". The grapple arms are 3/8" steel. I think the width is 26". The cylinder is a 2X6, and the hoses i had made up are all 3/8" with quick connects at the rear, and at the edge of the loader. I had each of the hoses made in two pieces, so i could quick disconnect the grapple on the bucket and the cylinder and leave the hoses connected to the tractor underneath. Make sure and get 90 degree fittings for the cylider hoses. The total cost for all the hoses and quick connects were about $140. I had my local tractor dealer make them up for me. He has all the fittings and hose and had them pre-maid becuase he sells montana's and checked the length. Use plenty of Plastic Zip ties to connect the hose to your tractor and loader, it makes for a slick set up.

The grapple is absolutley wonderfull what you can do with it on your tractor. the only limitation usually is the lifting of your back tires. Mine are loaded and I always keep my 6 foor box blade on to have more ballast. it still get a little light, so you just have go alittle slower. I will get some pictures on hear later of my installation on my 3644.

 

[skipro3]

Thanks for the info there Jack. I was going to go with the Thumb anyway after talking to both owners. Only difference I see is that the Andy is 26.5" long arms and unpainted where-as the Thumb has 24" and 28" arms and powder coated. Price; Andy is $430 shipped and he has to make them and drop ship the cylinder. Thumb, has them in stock and shipped is $429. Also, thanks for the suggestion to use the 28" arms. My bucket from cutting edge to the top of the opening is 23" but I have a rock tooth bar on there as well. Mounting on top of a 2 1/2" square tube adds 2 more inches to the 23 inch opening for 25 inches so that should be about perfect.

Looking forward to seeing your photos too BTW.

Oh, I have a backhoe on my tractor so that's about 1,000+ lbs of ballast of the back. I think I'll be good to go!! Here's a photo for you to consider....

 

[alchemysa]

Here's a photo for you to consider....

That rock must be hollow!